Why would a Duo kill the output on port 2? It has only 2 tuners IIRC.
Yes; that's what I remember.
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TheKrell
Because whatever it is in a Hopper 3 that kills the Port 2 output is also in the Hopper Duo. Duo Hub only works for 2 Hopper 1's and 2's
Well, your knowledge is superior to my memory.
I found this thread which states the same thing: Hybrid LNBF backward compatibility, even though it makes no sense when a pair of every other receiver (not H3 or Duo) will work. One wonders what is in the Duo that does this counterintuitive bad thing. Same chipset as the H3? Could 16 tuners be latent in the Duo?Many years ago, I taught a class with a bunch of relatively cheap (enormous in those days) calculators that only had 4 functions. But there was a suspicious-looking plastic hood over much of the front. It turned out that you could unsnap that hood and find a fully-functional scientific calculator, keys and all, underneath.
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So you could have a Hopper 1 or 2 + a Duo but not 2 Duos or a Hopper 3 + a Duo?
No, you could have (Hopper 1 + Hopper 1) or (Hopper 1 + Hopper 2) or (Hopper 2 + Hopper 2). Apparently, either a Hopper 3 or a Hopper Duo ties up the first port on the Hybrid LNB, and also disables the second port, which ties them both up.
I found this out when another tech thought he had a bad meter because it showed no signal on a Dish he was pointing and the install was a Hopper Duo - which was plugged in and connected to the Coax. Disconnecting the coax and the signal popped up on the meterWell, your knowledge is superior to my memory.
Many years ago, I taught a class with a bunch of relatively cheap (enormous in those days) calculators that only had 4 functions. But there was a suspicious-looking plastic hood over much of the front. It turned out that you could unsnap that hood and find a fully-functional scientific calculator, keys and all, underneath.
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Maybe it is intentional. Under most circumstances, Dish will not allow two Hopper Duos on the same account. They also do not want more than one account hooked up to the same dish, if it is a residential installation. So, this ensures that either of the newer Hopper models (which a new customer is more likely to get) would be the only host receiver allowed on each dish. That way, if there is more than one account, each account must also have its own separate dish. This is also likely why they insist on installing a Hybrid LNB for new Hopper Duo installs, even though the Hopper Duo will work just fine when connected to a DPP LNB.
For what it's worth, I have always used DPP LNB's and/or switches to hook up my two Hopper Duos. I also never had any Joeys, so I did not have a Hybrid Hub in the mix, either. So, I never ran into this problem. Apparently, multiple Hopper Duos will work just fine in DPP mode. However, as soon as you put one in Hybrid mode by connecting it to a Hybrid LNB, it enables the signal killing command for that LNB.
I had speculated at one point that there may be a latent third tuner in the Hopper Duo, making it more similar to the older Hoppers. After all, there was a latent second tuner in the Wally, that was not enabled until almost two years after the Wally first came out. At one point, I saw a glitch where it actually showed three tuners on the Hopper Duo Diagnostics dish signal strength screen. All three "tuners" showed good signal. I happened to be recording more than one network show on tuner 2 at the time. The explanation I got was that the third tuner was a "virtual" tuner, due to the Hopper Duo being used for three satellite shows at once. (Two recordings on tuner 2, plus live TV on Tuner 1.) I am not sure I buy that explanation, though, since I was never able to duplicate that glitch after that, no matter how many network shows were being recorded at the time. It then always showed only two tuners on that screen, as it should.
"Duo Hub works for two Hopper 3s too."
Yes, but that requires a DPH42 switch. I am sure that a Duo Hub would also work for two Hopper Duos connected the same way. (Otherwise, that is a very ironic name for that Hub, if there is no way to use it with Hopper Duos.) However, we were discussing whether the Hybrid LNB would support two Hopper Duos. Apparently not. So either way, it would require a DPP LNB. Then you would either connect each Hopper Duo directly to the LNB, or you would use a DPH42 switch to be able to also use the Duo Hub for both Hopper Duos.
Yes, but that requires a DPH42 switch. I am sure that a Duo Hub would also work for two Hopper Duos connected the same way. (Otherwise, that is a very ironic name for that Hub, if there is no way to use it with Hopper Duos.) However, we were discussing whether the Hybrid LNB would support two Hopper Duos. Apparently not. So either way, it would require a DPP LNB. Then you would either connect each Hopper Duo directly to the LNB, or you would use a DPH42 switch to be able to also use the Duo Hub for both Hopper Duos.
So as long as the neighbor has a Hopper 1 or 2 and not a Duo or a Hopper 3, I could potentially connect a Wally, but still not a Duo correct?
Okay, here is another question I wanted to run by you. I have a technician coming on Tuesday morning, to install a replacement Hopper Duo and a Joey 3. I have never had any Joeys before, so I never had a Hybrid Hub in my system, either. So, when connecting a Hybrid Solo Hub to port 1 on a DPP44 switch, am I correct in assuming that the Hub goes between the output from the power inserter and the Hopper Duo, rather than between the power inserter and the switch? I want to know, before my appointment, what to expect the technician to do when hooking this up.
I have to wonder, does this only happen when the Hopper Duo is connected to port 1? In other words, could something else (that does not kill the signal to port 2) be connected to port 1, and then have the Hopper Duo work just fine when connected to port 2? Or, does connecting the Hopper Duo to either port effectively kill both ports?
Sorry; I never had a DPP44 so I do not know. But FWIW, I would guess the former.
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You have a 44 switch?? You can go to the Hub first or the power inserter first. Either way shouldn't be an issue
Thanks. That is what I thought, but I wanted to be sure. This entire system is going in my bedroom, which is also where my power inserter is. So, either way would work, but this way I do not have to pull out my TV stand to get to the cable that runs from the power inserter to the switch. It also means that I do not have to have the technician go anywhere else in my house to install anything. This is a relatively small bedroom, so I am just trying to be cautious, what with the COVID protocols, and social distancing, and all that. I am still going to be in the room watching what the installer does, of course. So, the more floor space I have open, the better, and every inch counts.
Ah, the best laid plans...
The install was... interesting.
First, it turned out that the installer needed to get to the DPP44 switch after all, which is located in the basement. So much for not having the installer have to go through the rest of my house. Then, he did not put in a Hybrid Hub. Instead, he hooked a Solo Node to two of the DPP44 outputs (avoiding connecting the Node to the port 1 power inserter output. So, that uses a total of three outputs on the switch) and ran a brand new cable from the Host port of the Node to my bedroom. There, he hooked up a Hybrid Tap to the new cable, and used that to connect both the Hopper Duo and Joey 3. Having said all that, it works just fine, so I can't really complain. I have never had any Joeys in my system before, so I am not sure if this is the "correct" way to hook this up. But, like I said, it actually works.
