The installer is comming out on Sunday. Do they have a chimney mount option or is this something I can pick up at a place like Radio shack?
Chimney mount question for Dish?
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He may have one but I wouldn't count on it.
Will he be able to get a good ground with the dish on the chimney?
Will he be able to get a good ground with the dish on the chimney?
The grounding pole is actually on that side of the house. The D* dish is on the opposite side mounted to my newer roof. D* didn't have one at the time.
Is it a brick chimney? Yes use TAPCON screws right into the brick using the standard mounting foot. ZOf course he will need a hammer drill to drill with.
my first dish was in an apartment complex. I could not drill into anything so I got chimney mount from radio shack. It had an angled bracket that goes on the corner of the chimney with two straps that went around it. I really liked this mount in fact later when I moved out of the apartment I used it on my parents house.
chimney mounts are royally bad idea.
the dish will vibrate in the wind and can loosen masonary aroundf chimney cap and bricks.
I told my neighor this, he didnt believe me a big storm removed the last few feet of his chimney, the dish hung from its wiring.
he relocated the dish to a easy to reach place on his deck.
the dish vibrating can crackk the chimney cap, allowing rain water to get between liner and bricks. if you live in a area that freezes the trapped water freezes expands and the liner breaks and falls in blocking flue.
CO2 poisiniing can kill.
if you have a chimney mount climb up there once a year and inspect everything espically the cap, around the liner. this can only be seen from above.
the dish will vibrate in the wind and can loosen masonary aroundf chimney cap and bricks.
I told my neighor this, he didnt believe me a big storm removed the last few feet of his chimney, the dish hung from its wiring.
he relocated the dish to a easy to reach place on his deck.
the dish vibrating can crackk the chimney cap, allowing rain water to get between liner and bricks. if you live in a area that freezes the trapped water freezes expands and the liner breaks and falls in blocking flue.
CO2 poisiniing can kill.
if you have a chimney mount climb up there once a year and inspect everything espically the cap, around the liner. this can only be seen from above.
I believe some have posted here that Dish no longer allows chimney mounts.
You might also consider an eave mount, if you don't want roof penetrations.
You might also consider an eave mount, if you don't want roof penetrations.
Bob, Like I said earlier, I've had two chimney mounts with Tapcon screws for 11 years and I have had zero issues with it in all that time. To add to that I also have a 2 Radio Shack strap type chimney mounts that hold up my Channel Master 4228 antenna. We get wind here all the time, like daily, because we are just 30 miles from the Pacific Ocean. In those years we have had many episodes of gale force wind as well. Much ado about nothing......
thats all well and good BUT a bad cap nearly killed me and my grandma years ago. a friend who happended to be a volunteer fireman stopped and recognized the symptoms, saving our life.
now ours wasnt caused by a dish but they definetely vibrate in the wind, and that can cause cracking........
and how far up is your dish the nearer the top the better the chance of troubles.
let alone dish getting contaminated by chinmey exhaust....... espically wood fires
so relax if you want but a roofer i know reported lots of chimneys get rebuilt after being dished..............
this probably explains why E doesnt do chimney mounts.
as long as anyone can get line of site for the dish theres no advantage to extra height, it just makes service harder, and snow removal a pain.
after all the satellite is at 22,300 miles how much does 30 feet help?
You didn't use the strap type
It sounds like you used the drill into the bricks or masonry type mount. The strap types spread the stress all around the chimney where as drilling all the way thru the brick gives the chance for water to ingress into the hole and crack when it freezes. I put up a chimney mount for my brother 7 yrs ago using the straps and he recently switched to E* from D* and checked the chimney and was showing no problems of hurting the mortar.
It sounds like you used the drill into the bricks or masonry type mount. The strap types spread the stress all around the chimney where as drilling all the way thru the brick gives the chance for water to ingress into the hole and crack when it freezes. I put up a chimney mount for my brother 7 yrs ago using the straps and he recently switched to E* from D* and checked the chimney and was showing no problems of hurting the mortar.
OK, I'll pass on the chimney mount. My chimney is very old. Just an idea...I guess a bad one.
inside of chimney is ceramic liner, you dont want to drill into that.
you dont understand the CHIMNEY CAP is masonary cement around the liner where it protrudes thru the bricks.
If the mortar cracks there on the TOP the water can get trapped between the liner and bricks expand when it freezes, cracking the liner which pieces fall down the flue so exhaust gasses cant get out and backup in your home.
its like car exhaust it KILLS!
the trouble isnt drilling into chimney.......
its the dish vibrating in wind, causing cracking
Then don't drill
Then don't drill into it use the strap type mount and there will be no holes for water to enter the chimney. I'm not the one that advocates drilling into the chimney. You need to address that with the person that says they use the Tapcon screws. I never have used them and don't even know for sure what they are. Strap type mounts shouldn't cause cracking of the mortar unless it is already weak, crumbling, and needs to be replaced. Please don't confuse what I have said with those that are talking about drilling into the brickwork.
Then don't drill into it use the strap type mount and there will be no holes for water to enter the chimney. I'm not the one that advocates drilling into the chimney. You need to address that with the person that says they use the Tapcon screws. I never have used them and don't even know for sure what they are. Strap type mounts shouldn't cause cracking of the mortar unless it is already weak, crumbling, and needs to be replaced. Please don't confuse what I have said with those that are talking about drilling into the brickwork.
the issue isnt holes! AT ALL!
Its the VIBRATION!!
Vibrating dish, dish acts like a wing airfoli, makes chimney vibrate.
vibration causes masonary to crack, and the cap.... cement surrounding liner, cracks.......
water enters between liner and bricks. freezes, breaks liner which falls into flue and clogs it, exhaust gasses back up into house. can kill.
the CO2 actually replaces the oxygen in your blood stream, no oxygen you die.
our symptoms the day it occured.
bad headache, weak in knees, nausea vomiting and poor thinking
Not as big a problem
It's not a bad of a problem with the strap attachment due to the fact that the straps can flex a bit. I herd the issue that you you were talking about with the vibration but not sure that it is as big of a problem with the type of mount I'm talking about. As I said I have installed one on bro's house and it has been there something like 7 yrs now and has not cause any problems. Now attaching by drilling directly into the masonry would have more problems with the viberation since it will try to break the bricks loose from the chimney as these direct bolted units have no give in the mount what so ever.
It's not a bad of a problem with the strap attachment due to the fact that the straps can flex a bit. I herd the issue that you you were talking about with the vibration but not sure that it is as big of a problem with the type of mount I'm talking about. As I said I have installed one on bro's house and it has been there something like 7 yrs now and has not cause any problems. Now attaching by drilling directly into the masonry would have more problems with the viberation since it will try to break the bricks loose from the chimney as these direct bolted units have no give in the mount what so ever.
so whens the last time you looked downard at the top of the chimney?
from the ground everything can look fine, but if you live where it freezes, climb up and look at the cap.
if its cracked clean and remove everything loose / cracked and replace.......
a few years ago i personally checked 5 chimney caps, one was at best ok, the remaining 4 were cracked and broken.
hey theres nothing in this for me.
except a cracked cap very nearly killed me and my grandma
I must agree with whatchel1, As long as you are using the strap type of chimney mount you are good too go, you wont have any probs, provided it is installed properly. Perhaps once in a while you can check to make sure the straps are all snug, especially if you live in a climate that has drastic temp changes, as heating and cooling can make it loosen up a tad but nothing serious, as long as you check it once in a while.
Now as for those Screw in types, if, and I mean if, you must go this route then it is always best to use the Tap-con type, as well you don't screw into the mortar between the bricks, you will be ok, it is when you screw into the motar joints, that it can cause problems, as well by using some silicone to prevent water penetration from happening you avoid the water from entering and expanding in colder climates and cracking the bricks. The mortar joints are the weak spots, this is why you do not screw into the motar to do mounting of any kind. The second worst problem is that people use the wrong size of drill bit to do the job properly, most tap-con packages come with the proper size drill right in the package.
The problem is that alot of people do drill into the mortar joints as it is easier to drill into mortar than it is the brick, and by nature most will always take the easier route, which is not always the best.
When the hole is first drilled into the brick, using a silicone gun or tube of silicone, inject silicone into the hole before inserting the tap-con, this will prevent water from penetrating the porous brick.
By using a little common sense you can avoid the damaging effects of mounting on a chimney
Of course it is always much better to mount your dish in a more accesable place, not up on a chimney, but there are those I guess that must do so for what ever reason. Mounting on the side of a house for some might not be appealing, but it is always more sensible for maintenance reasons. Even mounting on a pole is better than a chimney.
Now if a Roof mount is installed properly, I did say properly, there is no worries of leaks what so ever, and for most is the best place to mount dishes.
There are a multitude of mounts of every description for mounting dishes, really there is no need to mount a dish way up on a chimney. but for those that must do so, the best is the wrap-around clamp, and the least best way of doing so is to drill into the brick, and use the tap-cons to do it, and use the silicon to keep out the water.
I CANNOT STRESS IT ENOUGH that if an installer does not seem like they know what they are doing, or will not take the time to fully explain how they intend to mount it, then DO NOT allow them to do so, and find another person, or installer that will take the time to do the job properly.
Now as for those Screw in types, if, and I mean if, you must go this route then it is always best to use the Tap-con type, as well you don't screw into the mortar between the bricks, you will be ok, it is when you screw into the motar joints, that it can cause problems, as well by using some silicone to prevent water penetration from happening you avoid the water from entering and expanding in colder climates and cracking the bricks. The mortar joints are the weak spots, this is why you do not screw into the motar to do mounting of any kind. The second worst problem is that people use the wrong size of drill bit to do the job properly, most tap-con packages come with the proper size drill right in the package.
The problem is that alot of people do drill into the mortar joints as it is easier to drill into mortar than it is the brick, and by nature most will always take the easier route, which is not always the best.
When the hole is first drilled into the brick, using a silicone gun or tube of silicone, inject silicone into the hole before inserting the tap-con, this will prevent water from penetrating the porous brick.
By using a little common sense you can avoid the damaging effects of mounting on a chimney
Of course it is always much better to mount your dish in a more accesable place, not up on a chimney, but there are those I guess that must do so for what ever reason. Mounting on the side of a house for some might not be appealing, but it is always more sensible for maintenance reasons. Even mounting on a pole is better than a chimney.
Now if a Roof mount is installed properly, I did say properly, there is no worries of leaks what so ever, and for most is the best place to mount dishes.
There are a multitude of mounts of every description for mounting dishes, really there is no need to mount a dish way up on a chimney. but for those that must do so, the best is the wrap-around clamp, and the least best way of doing so is to drill into the brick, and use the tap-cons to do it, and use the silicon to keep out the water.
I CANNOT STRESS IT ENOUGH that if an installer does not seem like they know what they are doing, or will not take the time to fully explain how they intend to mount it, then DO NOT allow them to do so, and find another person, or installer that will take the time to do the job properly.
For everyone who claims any chimney mount is fine no problem when the LAST TIME you looked down at your chimney from above?
I dont want to be a PIA but this is a serious hazard..........
because most folks dont go on their roof till theres a problem.
strap mounts were made for regular TV antennas that have little or no wind resistance.
whereas dishes act like a sail
