Channels don't look the best

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mrand

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Jan 11, 2005
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OK, let's see if I can explain my problem. I have a 50' panasonic HDTV and I have DTV. I have the Samsung HD rec. and I have it connected to my panasonic via a DVI cable. The HD channels look great, but the others don't look so hot. I thought I read somewhere that I should connect component cables so that when I watch the non HD channels I can switch the output of the Samsung to go throught the component cables to get a better picture? Does this sound right? The post I read mentioned something about 480i vs 720i or higher. Thanks. Being a newbie sucks.
 
This is common with HDTVs. Some have found a slightly better output of the SD channels by using the S-video or composite (not component) output to their TV. You may also get better results by switching the output format to 480i/p when watching the SD channels.

The real problem is that the HDTV monitors are so much more detailed that you see more flaws in any signal. The fact that D* compresses most of the SD channels pretty heavily doesn't help the fact either. Take a slightly less than perfect image and subject it to the line-doublers/upscallers that are built into the receiver/TV and you are just magnifying the problem.

In the end, you will just find yourself watching mostly the HD channels or the DT broadcasts from your OTA antenna, if you have one.
 
If you take the time to play with sharpness,brightness, contrast controls you can improve the SD picture perception while maintaining HDTV quality. I took 2 days of playing but SD improved vastly from factory settings it isn't HD but it isn't as grainy/ distorted as I started out with.
 
TV sets are usually calibrated in the factory to look good on a showroom floor. In order to stand out on a showroom floor the most important factor is a bright picture. In a bright store setting, TVs are competing with both the ambient light in the room and all of the other TVs on display. The best way to draw attention to a TV is by having a bright picture.

When you take your TV home though, you are not competing with other TVs (unless you have a really cool TV room) and you can control the ambient light. If you are installing your TV in a home theater setting you will probably find it blaringly bright. And, when dealing with Plasma and Rear Projection TV's, these settings can reduce the life of the set and increase the risk of "burn in."

Burn in is a condition related to the way a picture is displayed on these TVs. With both Rear Projection and Plasma, the image is produced by phosphors that are excited through different processes. These phosphors get hot and they can burn in if left with a static image on the screen. Properly calibrating you set will greatly reduce the risk of burn in and will prolong the life of you TV.

We will look at six basic TV settings that you can adjust to calibrate your picture properly. Some parts of a TV picture are personal preference, especially when dealing with color adjustments.

There are standards by which you can set these colors, and there are some resources you can use to reach the "perfect" picture on you TV set. First though, we will start out with the basics and let you know what each item is, what it does, and what you should see when set properly. It is best to adjust your picture will a still image, so if you can find a DVD with a variety of dark and bright scenes that would be the best option.

Brightness

The brightness setting is actually officially called black level. The brightness control changes the color and brightness of black within the picture. Most times the brightness control is set way too high in order to give a floor model of a TV an overall bright picture. When turning down the brightness control, you want to adjust it so that the darkest areas of the picture are black, but not so much that you lose detail. Take a dark alleyway image from a DVD or on TV, and adjust is so that black is black, and that you can still see the detail on images in the dark.

Contrast/Picture

This control is also called the white level. It controls the overall color of white within the image. This control is also often set very high in TVs right out of the box. You will probably end up turning this control down to between 40-60% of its available level. You want to make sure that edges of bright white images do not appear blurred, or what is technically called "blooming." This setting is especially important to turn down in Plasma and Rear Projection TVs as it is one of the major contributors to an increased risk of burn in.

Sharpness

Sharpness is a control that artificially enhances the edges of images on the TV screen. It is probably the most over used control on most TV sets today. Most people see sharpness and think "I want as sharp a picture as possible, so I'll just turn it all the way up." In fact, you will want to take sharpness almost all the way down and off is usually the most preferable setting for this control. In trying to enhance the edges of objects on the screen, it's more likely that it adds picture artifacts, making edges look fuzzy, or like they have a halo. If the source material is good (i.e. you have a really strong cable signal) you may find it does help the picture slightly. Be judicious with this control and never turn it all the way on.

Color

Color is a more personal setting, in that different people perceive color and find different amounts of color pleasing. Color is often set to high on a TV out of the box, but it may not be as drastically high as some of the other settings. Setting the color level should be done with an image whose color you know well, things like school buses, stop signs, and other objects to which you have some reference in real life. Color should appear natural and not overemphasized. You want the school bus to appear yellow, but not fluorescent or dull.

Tint

Tint is something that is probably best left in the middle. Even after calibrating several of my TVs, I have almost always found that the middle is the best setting for this level. If you do change this setting from the middle, only change it a few notches.

Color Temperature

Color temperature is a setting that most people set to "warm." Even though color is a personal preference, "warm" is not usually the most accurate setting. It over emphasizes red tones, and makes pale people look tan. I always recommend adjusting the setting to normal, or even cool in some instances.

Now, after you have calibrated your TV set, it will look different. Give yourself time to adjust to your new settings. Do not look at your set and say, "it doesn't look good, I'll just put it back to the way it was." Wait at least a week, and re-examine the picture again. Many people are so used to watching an improperly calibrated picture that they are actually used to seeing a bad picture. If you give yourself time to adjust, you will probably start to notice details and parts of the picture you have never seen before.

It is also important to note that on some TVs there are different picture settings for each video input. So check you settings and see if they have been set for all inputs or just one. You may have to attach a DVD source to each input you plan to watch in order to calibrate it properly. If you are watching regular cable, and have no access to put a DVD into that co-axial input, you may just have to try and find a movie channel and attempt to adjust your settings with a moving picture.

All of the settings we made above were just made with whatever content you could find. Maybe a DVD (paused on specific images), or a TV movie. But, you can purchase a DVD made specifically made for calibrating you TV set. These DVDs have varieties of test patterns which will allow you to make much more accurate adjustments. They are a wise investment, usually in the neighborhood of $25-$50, and should be used on every TV in your house in order to keep you TVs running smoothly and at their peak performance.

If calibrating your set does not seem like a task you feel competent in tackling by yourself, you can hire a professional to do the work for you. You will want to locate an ISF certified technician to come and calibrate your set. ISF stands for Imaging Science Foundation, and is a body that trains and certifies technicians with courses covering the professional calibration of video displays. They will use equipment designed specifically for measuring the parameters of the TV set, and will spend several hours getting your TV picture perfect.

They will also be able to access service settings that the general consumer does not have access to. Even people who have noticed a fantastic difference after they have calibrated their own sets with a DVD calibration disc, say that they didn't know their set could get any better until they had an ISF technician come and calibrate their set professionally. You will pay for this calibration though. Prices most likely running in the neighborhood of $200 and up. Check with your local ISF technician for exact pricing.

Whatever you do, at the least try to make the basic video calibrations yourself especially if you have not changed the default picture settings on your TV. As a general rule, you should turn down the contrast a fair amount, cut down the brightness, reduce sharpness to the off position or very close to it and adjust color so that objects look natural and not over emphasized. In the long run your set will perform better, last longer, and will give you the full enjoyment of any kind of picture, and especially an HD picture.
 
Good info charper.

I just thought I would step in and comment.

I think the D* picture has less compression artifacts than the E* and digital cable. That said they are still there.. this thread has some great info on reduction of them.
 
billbillw said:
You should be thanking Brooks Flynn with Philips Electronics (Unless Charper1 is Brooks?)

See hereat ESPN.com

Charper1, didn't you learn to properly cite your sources in English class?

now how in the hell was I supposed to know that? I never go to ESPN.com... I generally watch Sportscenter about once a week.
 
ShadowEKU said:
now how in the hell was I supposed to know that?
You weren't, that's why I posted. I thought Charper's post looked familiar, so I checked it out. I read it a few months ago when I first got ESPN-HD. We all cut and paste from other sources once in awhile to save typing, but we shouldn't forget to acknowledge the source.
 
I am posting general info on a message board; but i will be sure to send myself to detention for not footnoting. GEEZ!

I bet you remember this every time you pass along info to a buddy?

I guess at 36 I am well past all the credit sharing and glory hogging so I didn't even think about it.

"I swear next time I will try to be politically correct."

aka the death of our society!
 
charper1 said:
I am posting general info on a message board; but i will be sure to send myself to detention for not footnoting. GEEZ!

I bet you remember this every time you pass along info to a buddy?

I guess at 36 I am well past all the credit sharing and glory hogging so I didn't even think about it.

"I swear next time I will try to be politically correct."

aka the death of our society!

Normally, I wouldn't bust your chops, but it was a whole friggin article word for word! A link would've done the trick. Ok, I won't rip on you anymore about this.
 
charper1, I'm not trying to pile on here, I'm just trying to inform you. Even though this is an open forum, anything anyone writes here is covered by copyright laws. You own the copyright to your original work, as does the author of that article you reposted. Citing the author is not just a courtesy or an academic exercise, it's the way to avoid a potentially messy copyright infringement issue down the road-and believe me, there are people who will jump on you for the slightest copyright infringement.
 
Sharpie said:
Geeeeesh, enough already. Give it a rest.
Fair enough... to get back on topic, I noticed that, after a couple of years with Comcrap cable service (back in NJ) and then a painful 4 months of existing with only off air TV via rabbit ears (after moving to OK) that the day my D* service was turned on I had to do a major readjustment of my Panasonic 27" flat screen TV. Having a background in video production, I wished I had access to color bars and a blue filter to set the color and tint right, but I dialed the set in as close as I could get by eye. I noticed that I could run the contrast and brightness a lot lower, which opened up the shadows for the first time ever with this TV. The picture looked fantastic!

My wife came in the living room and turned on a local channel, then said that the PQ didn't look much different from off air. I switched over to a channel off the 101 and she said it looked better. I then switched to the Patty Scalifia concert on Freeview and my wife noticed how much better the picture looked then.

Since then, we've had reason to go back to the rabbit ears once or twice for locals (not every one is carried in Tulsa, sadly) and the PQ difference is like night and day!

Moral of the story... D* is better, but sometimes you have to choose the proper subject material to use for comparison to bring the point home.
 
Thanks for all the tips. I'm going to go play and see what I can come up with. Thanks again.
 
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