c and ku band
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Yes and no. Yes, you can try, but most likely you will be disappointed with the results. Many have tried dual reception of C and Ku on their bud and most find the results unsatisfactory and put them on separate dishes, myself included.
I mounted a 30 inch Channel Master to the lower lip of the BUD. Tracks the arc along with the BUD.
Out performs the BUD by a factor of 2+ on Ku (There's not much it misses) I do have a 1 meter but think the weight may be too much. ( I do have to admit - the mesh on the BUD isn't that good at Ku - too much airspace- Perforated would have been OK
IMHO)
Out performs the BUD by a factor of 2+ on Ku (There's not much it misses) I do have a 1 meter but think the weight may be too much. ( I do have to admit - the mesh on the BUD isn't that good at Ku - too much airspace- Perforated would have been OK
IMHO)
All I can say is I've been pulling excellent C and Ku on my 7.5' KTI mesh for over 20 years using a low temp dual LNB Corotor system here in eastern PA.
I agree, the only point I was trying to make is that the fault doesn't lay with the mesh dish. The feedhorn configuration is the major determinant. I probably should have been more clear. 
Two other factors that may cause difficulty reliably receiving KU on large reflectors are surface accuracy and mechanical slop.
Reflector surface imperfections are more obvious with the higher KU-band frequencies and the often have lower efficiency on KU. 3-4GHz is much more forgiving.
With such a narrow beam width on KU, any slop in the mount, actuator or surface distortion / movement with wind loading can make KU-band aiming difficult. This shouldn't be an issue for well constructed and maintained dishes with tight tolerances.
Reflector surface imperfections are more obvious with the higher KU-band frequencies and the often have lower efficiency on KU. 3-4GHz is much more forgiving.
With such a narrow beam width on KU, any slop in the mount, actuator or surface distortion / movement with wind loading can make KU-band aiming difficult. This shouldn't be an issue for well constructed and maintained dishes with tight tolerances.
True, but I think you could say that about any dish. A Wok with imperfections and/or slop in the motor gears can be just as detrimental to consistent quality reception. The whole trick is to have well maintained equipment, to have that equipment properly installed, and to have it properly aligned including tweaking the sweetspot. On a large dish a well constructed polar mount is essential. In 20 years I have aligned my dish just 2 times; once when I originally installed it, and once 10 years ago when I moved to a new house and took it with me (I didn't mind moving the dish but digging a new hole and hand mixing all that concrete again was a PITA).
Yes I have an 8 footer and have used one of those LNB's in the past. From my experience what that LNB you with either get C Band good or KU good. I had mine set for C band, and KU for the most part was acceptable, but nowhere near as good as a real C / KU band LNB.
Also I believe WSI is no more so not sure how old that LNBF is if you were to buy it.
BTW big hello to "Satdish"
Also I believe WSI is no more so not sure how old that LNBF is if you were to buy it.
BTW big hello to "Satdish"
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The crazy thing about those last combos Robby aka WSI had were the cband is a DRO and the KU is a PLL.
They are about a year and half old maybe 2. I had lots of returns on them.
If it was my money I would go with a new or used corotor II and wait for some eBay deals to get PLL C and KU lnb's norsat. You can get dro KU and C for cheap. You can get a corotor free from freebie dishes
Then get you something to turn dish and servo motor like vbox, old IRD or asc1.Don't pay $67.25 for that NS741.
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