OTHER Basic DVB-S/S2 Receiver

Doesn't like the current draw from 125' RG6/HH motor with 90cm and 115mA LNBF. Power cycles when connected. Works fine on a fixed dish or via the ASC1 controller.
The inability to move a dish would be a dealbreaker for me. Unless I missed it I don't see a mention of USALS or DiSEqC in the specs so I'm curious if dish moving is even in the menu.

This one says it does support USALS/DiSEqC but then it also has IPTV built-in which has not been a lucky combo so far.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141984732268?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
LOL!!! I received the STB today. Just 15 minutes before I read your post I connected to my Samsung TV at home and it had no video. I had to drive up to the office and connect to a multi standard TV to set the output.

The first time the STB is powered up it is in the main menu screen.

Press the Channel Down arrow 2 times. This highlights System. Press OK.

Press the Channel Down arrow 1 time. This highlights AV Setting. Press OK.

The TV System setting is set to auto by default. Press the right arrow button 2 times to select the NTSC mode. Your TV should now be displaying the menu.

Without a 60hz TV channel scanned in, the GUI defaults to PAL mode.
Thanks for the blind directions. It will probably be tomorrow until I can play with it again.

This thing is Tiny, it seems like it will have a hard time dealing with heat dissipation issues.
 
Motor control is in the menu. Both USALS and DiSEqC 1.2. I read in another review that the motor control was accurate on a KU HH motorized dish. Maybe I have received a "under-performing" unit?

The size and weight is amazing! The entire chipset is covered by a heat sink that seems well attached. The case is well vented both on top and bottom. Ran heavy HD programming for 30 minutes and the heat sink was warm to the touch, but not hot as we have seen on other STBs. The PCB hardware build is very good.
 
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I do like the remote for feel and comfort in the hand. Buttons were nicely spaced with good feedback.

Things to check:

1. Timer and receiver stability
2. Clock time keeping
3. USALS motor control
4. Diseqc 1.0 & 1.1 combined control

I've been otherwise occupied every weekend since early April, but this weekend I'm staying home inside while the mercury pushed into the 90's. That's prime FTA screwing around time!
 
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I've been swamped with work related issues but I'll try and connect HH motor to v7 this weekend and see if I have motor control or same experience as Titanium. The main reason I was interested in this receiver was an inexpensive option for adding 16apsk (and maybe 32) and for that it has been fine.
 
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Testing update: When using a 2A power source, the STB handles constant LNB input loads up to 450mA with no problem. Loads at 500+ mA causes the LNB power protection circuit to kick in and the STB shuts down them reboots.

This STB should be adequate for multi-LNBF set-ups using a DiSEqC type switch that only powers the active port. A motorized system may introduce problems when the current draw is maxed out during initial motor movement near the edges of the arc the start-up draw exceeds 450mA, shutting the unit down. If the dish is light and a single low current draw LNBF is used, the over-current protection shouldn't trigger.

Supports 63 DiSEQC 1.2 motor position assignments and can be manually assigned. USALS calculation is accurate and works well. The install menu allows a mixture of DiSEqC 1.2/USALS settings and each satellite position supports simultaneous 22Khz/DiSEqC 1.0/1.1 and motor control.

Has a PC editor, but haven't downloaded the software yet.

Overall, for the $$$$, I am impressed with the features and function for a very inexpensive STB.
 
My notes on the Freesat V7 from playing with it for a brief few moments.

The box boots up in about 14 seconds when powered up via the power button or power cord.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, the box initially boots to a PAL resolution. I don't have a PAL compatible display and followed the blind instructions given by Brian earlier to set the resolution to NTSC. Thanks for that! After it's booted and displaying NTSC, go into the menu and add a CONUS satellite and delete all the satellites from the list as they're all on the other side of the world from me. I don't know if the unit likes not having any Sats in the list, and I wasn't going to find out. I scanned in 125W under USALS control through a DiSEqC 1.0 1x4 switch with no problems. The SG9120B motor was powered without difficulty. I made a database backup to SD card so I'd have a restore file ready to go if needed.

Installed the Database Editor and populated the satellite list for all the birds I wanted. I then loaded them back onto the Freesat V7.

A shortcoming of the db editor; There is no way that I can find to enter the satellite orbital location or the DiSEqC 1.2 address. It looks like one will have to enter this info from the STB after loading the user db. Kind of a pain IMHO.

Time is set to use GMT, but I have no idea how it's syncing to GMT. I set the time zone to Central and Daylight Saving Time "Summer Time" and it knows what time it is, on multiple satellites and transponders.

This thing is TINY, as can be seen in this photo... I can echo what Brian said, for less than a pizza and a few beers, this thing performs well. It gets the troublesome Heroes/Movies!/Decades transponders with no problems. The signal is booming on them off the 8' channelmaster.

IMG_20160611_091829.jpg
 
Freesat v7 doesn't know what GMT time is on 101W Movies! I must have been coincidentally viewing transponders that were sending good timestamps off 107 C, 125 ku and 97 ku.

The remote is pretty good with a nice feel, not cheap like some. The IR signal is strong and has a great angle of usability. It works well by bouncing off items in the room too.
 
An annoyance I've seen with the V7, at least in my system. My current setup...

V7 ---> VBOX

VBOX ---> DiSEqC 1.0 1x4

DiSEqC 1.0 1x4 ---> A) ku on 8' ChannelMaster, B) C on 8' ChannelMaster, C) SG9120B and ku.

When switching to another satellite, the V7 will acquire the signal initially, then the signal will "blink", going from maximum to minimum quality and cycling about every second or so. I've left it and it doesn't clear. I can change the channel to another channel on the current satellite and it clears up, even when returning to the originally cycling channel.

It appears that the receiver may be reissuing repeated DiSEqC commands until the cycle is stopped. I don't know for sure, but I cant think of what else would be causing it.

It does seem to provide a lower voltage when powering the ku motor, as it seems to traverse slower than I recall with other receivers.
 
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My notes on the Freesat V7 from playing with it for a brief few moments....This thing is TINY, as can be seen in this photo... I can echo what Brian said, for less than a pizza and a few beers, this thing performs well. It gets the troublesome Heroes/Movies!/Decades transponders with no problems. The signal is booming on them off the 8' channelmaster.
View attachment 117428
Interesting. It seems that this box uses the exact same remote that the X2 M1 HD uses. I think they may be essentially the same box.
 
She get Hot ?
thanks

Yes, very much. That is essentially why I am not using the X2 M1HD now. I bought it on Amazon for about $38 and tried to tolerate it for about a month. I contacted X2 and they sent me a new one free of charge and didn't even want the old one back. They said it gets hot because it receives HD, which of course is B.S. I've never had anything with a USB port get so hot that when I unplug a metal flash drive from it I actually burn my finger until I used the M1HD. I'm inferring the Freesat box gets really hot too?
 
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Like I mentioned earlier, the FreeSAT V7 does not appear to have heat related issues. After operating on a fat HD channel, the unit is warm but not hot. Have had the unit powered on 24/7 for several weeks now without any heat issues.

The remote is a popular generic RCU model sourced by dozens of STB manufacturers for the past four years and paired with many chipsets. The HDVR1200 and DJ-1997 also use this same remote.
 
Every popular SOC currently includes LAN/WiFi native support. Inclusion of apps, games, IPTV is only a toggle of the GUI menu item and an increased memory requirement. As long as the STB has adequate memory, these extras have no affect on the DVBS/S2 operation.

Likely every STB from now on will be a hybrid as it increases the market potential at little or no additional build cost. In fact, on one sample that I am working with, the build cost increases if the LAN and/or WLAN components are deleted from the basic form.

Guess it will just be up to the user to ignore or delete unwanted features.

I wish I knew how to uninstall the unwanted features, but my knowledge of Linux is very limited. To me it's just bloatware, just like the off the shelf computers, which I would never buy, build my own, and custom install software to get better performance.
 
While waiting for a more advanced receiver than the microHD to come along (4K, etc), I’ve been wanting to buy a cheap second receiver as a backup. (OK, maybe a 10th receiver). Most have had pretty bad reviews. No one has said anything too bad about the FreeSat V7, so I thought I’d give one a try.

I haven’t had time to play with it in depth, but here are a few very quick observations made over the last week. I mainly use a receiver for blind scanning and channel surfing, so will likely not ever check out what else it can do. A lot of what I care about in a receiver may not be of interest to the average FTA user.

I paid $26.44, with free shipping. Once the package hit Los Angeles, the tracking number started working and it arrived in my rural mailbox 4 days after LA. Total time from ordering to arrival was 11 days.

Using the HDMI output, I connected the receiver to a computer monitor. I had video right away. I didn’t have the incompatible video format problem others mentioned. The default format was set to 1080i and Auto. (The options are: Auto, PAL and NTSC.)

The first problem I had was at power up the receiver would sometimes go into a boot loop. Surmising from what Brian said, I figured it didn’t like the current of my Ku Band dish farm (1 motor and 6 dishes on an 8 port switch). It didn’t have this problem with my BUDs, which are on a different cable, 3 LNBs on a 4 port switch. I had a 3 amp 12 volt power supply on hand and using that solved the boot loop problem. BTW, the power supply connecter is the same size and polarity as used on the microHD.

As others have said, it plays all the problematic channels on 101w without any problems. This is the main reason I purchased this STB. It also tunes in the KRBK mux on 99w without delay. My microHD can take 30 seconds or more to lock this mux.

Blind scan seems good. G19 Ku took 2 minutes exactly and found 220 TV and 67 radio channels ITC. AMC 21 Ku took 1 minute 55 seconds and found all of the PBS channels. It often scans in channels that are a bit too weak to play well, which I find a plus, but others may not.

In blind scans, it found the 16apsk mux on 97w C band and two 16apsk golf feeds on 103w Ku. It played these without any problems.

On each satellite the LNB voltage can be set to Auto, H, V, or off. So presumably it is possible to blind scan just one polarization, but I didn’t check to see if this worked.

Sensitivity seems just slightly better than the microHD. Signals that were pixelating slightly on the microHD were okay on the FreeSat V7. Signals were the Q bounces around a lot on the microHD had a solid Q on the FreeSat V7. But that could just be software, as the Q bar seemed slower to respond on the FreeSat V7.

Video quality seemed about the same between the two receivers. It doesn’t have the SD up conversion quality issue that some receivers have.


There are a number of features that the microHD has that are missing from the FreeSat V7:

There is no indication of the modulation type (QPSK, 8PSK, 16APSK) or FEC.

There is no indication of the video resolution (720p, 1080i, etc) of the received signal. In the channels list, HD channels are flagged with a HD symbol, but it wasn’t always accurate and isn’t of much use anyway.

When starting blind scans, there is no indication of the frequency range that will be scanned, so no ability to change it. Based on the channels scanned in, the ranges mostly seemed appropriate though. 3600 to 4200 MHz on C Band. With my extended C Band LNB it scanned channels from 4800 to well below 3800. I would have preferred that it stop at 4500 MHz.


These are some of the things I found annoying:

After a blind scan, the channels list returns to All, rather than the satellite that was just scanned.

On the remote, the satellite button is at the bottom right. I would prefer that it be near all of the other of my frequently used buttons: OK, Menu, Exit, Cursors, etc.

When bringing up the list of satellites, the cursor is always at the first satellite in the list, not at the currently selected satellite.


I noticed the Q blinking problem mentioned by gpflepsen. When moving to a new satellite, the signal would sometimes go in and out of lock, making it impossible to peak the dish on the signal. Changing to another channel seemed to stop this.

I haven’t used it to drive a motor, and I don’t have cascaded switches, so can’t comment on these.

I don’t do much recording, but tried a few in sequence and it seems to work. I made one two hour recording and it created a single file that played on a PC with both VLC and Windows Media Player. I didn’t try any of the other recording features.

Don’t know about the clock accuracy. I live in an area very prone to lightning and also live off grid. So I never leave electronics power up or connected to antennas when I’m not using them.

Satellites can be added or removed with the remote, same with individual transponders. I believe channels can also be renamed and moved around, but didn’t try that.

Pids can also be edited with the remote, but I could not get this to work. First I tried adding some of the hidden music channels on 103w Ku. When I scanned the entered pids, it said no program found. I then tried adding WCPE as the sound track to the beach cams, but got the same result. So I tried entering pids of an existing channel, just as they would be found on a blind scan. It didn’t complain about that, but what’s the point? It’s as if it won’t do anything that is different than what is defined in the tables. I did later get this to work using the PC editor. More about that in a bit.


Some geeky stuff: There are 3 low SR radio muxes on 99w. None of them were picked up on a blind scan. So I manually added 3773 H 2555. It locked the signal and was able to scan in the channels. Next I tried 3770 H 1220. It could lock the signal, but always failed to find any programming. I next tried 3742 H 741, but it complained about the SR being too low.

Over on 45w there is a radio mux at 11605 H 990. (China Radio International) The microHD can play this signal by using an SR of 1000 and repeatedly scanning it until it finds the tables. The FreeSat V7 could lock the signal, but I never could get it to scan in the channels. My WAG is that it times out on these low SR signals, be for the table is sent.

Next I down loaded the editor from the FreeSat website. It can add, delete, and reorder satellites, transponders and channels. Pretty basic, but seems to work well. I used the editor to add the hidden music channels on 103w Ku and it worked fine.

Next I added the low SR radio channels I mentioned and the receiver plays them fine. Even the one with an SR of 741.

Lastly I went over to 139w and did a blind scan there. Here the receiver fell apart. It didn’t find a single radio channel and half way through the scan completely locked up. I had to power cycle it, to get it back.

Over all I’m pretty happy with it. It does a few things my other receivers don’t. Other than the blind scan on 139w, it hasn’t hung up. And I haven’t managed to brick it yet.
 

OTHER Universal LNB - Linear - on a DISH NET 1000.2 dish

Setting for ANIK F2 Fortec 90

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