Average 622/722 Temperature thread, Is your's Hot?
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There are three ways to look at using fans to cool cabinet.mb1058 said:
1.) As you suggested, you can use fans to force air out of the cabinet. This is a good technique, however, the air you remove has to make its way back into the cabinet somehow, this is usually by any other openings in your cabinet - gaps under door, cracks & crevices, or openings in the back where you make your connections.
2.) The method I use, you can use fans to force air INTO the cabinet. In this case, air is forced OUT of the same gaps, caracks, crevices, and openings that air is sucked into using the alternative method. I prefer this method, becuase, when you use it in conjuction with filters over your fans, you force relatively dust-free air into your cabinet, keeping your components cleaner. Using the other method, dusty air gets sucked into thr cracks and crevices. Ever notice how a PC case always has dust built-up by places like the CD/DVD Drive and connection openings? That's becuase air is being sucked into those areas.
3.) Use a combination of air forced into and air sucked out of the cabinet. This is porbably the best method if done properly. The goal is to move slightly more air into the cabinet then you are forcing out of the cabinet, creating a positive pressure enviroment in the cabinet. This creates great airflow, and still maintains the dust control due to the positive pressure. A lot of newer PC cases have this feature, usually two fans blowing air in, and one (usually in the power supply) blowing it out. This allows both positive pressue and control of how the air flows accross the components. the only reason I do not use this on my equipment rack is becuase the back is wide open, and does not facilitate this.
My equipment rack consists of two sections - left and right. Each section has two 12V fans forcing air into it. The sides are "joined" by several 3" holes in the panel between them, allowing for some air to pass between the sides, though most air is forced out of the back of the cabinet. However, I do notice a very slight exhasut of air around the gaps around the glass front doors of the two sides.
Also, given the orientation of the 622's fan, using an exhaust fan where it is mounted would work counter to i the 622's intake fan. Currently, one of the two fans mounted on the 622's side of the cabinet blows directly into the 622's fan intake - and the additional air from it, and the second fan blow accross the top and bottom of the 622. This also shows that the designers of the 622 decided to use a fan blowing air into the 622 rather than a fan blowing air out of the 622.
As a side note - a fella over at DBS talk bought an inexpensive USB-powered PC fan and is using it - quite successfully - to augment the cooling of his 622. I think he just has it blowing across the top of his 622.
Mine is High 136
Low 95
Average 123
That sounds awfully hot to me...
Could that be why my damn box reboots whenever it wants to or locks up?
Low 95
Average 123
That sounds awfully hot to me...
Could that be why my damn box reboots whenever it wants to or locks up?
Yes, you need to get some more airflow there. Technology and excessive heat never seem to produce good things.....
You hit that on the money Bob and also dust which leads to heat. It tends to change the values in the cheaper capacitors and resisters more than the system design allows for.
Cannot imagine E* footing the bill for higher end caps and resistors that would handle the tolerances better.
Cannot imagine E* footing the bill for higher end caps and resistors that would handle the tolerances better.
What about using a laptop cooler such as the Vantec Lapcool 3:
http://www.vantecusa.com/product-notebook.html
It would sit under the receiver and power off the usb port... seems like that would be a better looking than sticking a fan on to either side of the unit, too bad dish didn't put a vent in the back that would've been a perfect spot for a exhaust fan to be mounted... the sides seem strange, there is usually less room side to side i'd think than in the rear of a cabinet...
mine is sitting at 123 average... i need to get some cooling on that box summer's coming...
http://www.vantecusa.com/product-notebook.html
It would sit under the receiver and power off the usb port... seems like that would be a better looking than sticking a fan on to either side of the unit, too bad dish didn't put a vent in the back that would've been a perfect spot for a exhaust fan to be mounted... the sides seem strange, there is usually less room side to side i'd think than in the rear of a cabinet...
mine is sitting at 123 average... i need to get some cooling on that box summer's coming...
May work if there's vent holes on the bottom of the 622 but if not then it wont do anything I wouldn't think.
Seems like in some unit's the fan may not be engaging all the time to me or they are measuring the temp while the unit is working overtime on recordings or multiple HD material.
Seems like in some unit's the fan may not be engaging all the time to me or they are measuring the temp while the unit is working overtime on recordings or multiple HD material.
There are a bunch of vent slots on the bottom of the unit... i may pick up one of these and try it out... i'd really like to reduce the 123 average temp... my cabinet is fully open front and back, so for me it's a matter of removing heat from the 622
Those air vents also allow dust to coat the components real easily. Unplug the receiver and blast it with compressed air every now and then (DON'T do it when it is plugged in as bad things may happen if small moisture droplets form on the surface for a moment before it evaporates).
Make sure you have at least 4 inches above the receiver before the next shelf up. I also drill a couple of holes in the shelves for power cord and interconnect pulls as well as vents that allow built up heat to escape.
Make sure you have at least 4 inches above the receiver before the next shelf up. I also drill a couple of holes in the shelves for power cord and interconnect pulls as well as vents that allow built up heat to escape.
Is it possible to reset the counters?
Checked my temps and they were high (136 high, 120 avg, 73 low). So I've improved airflow and venting.
Now I need to reset the counters to establish a new baseline - can that be done? I've thought about "Restoring Factory Defaults" but don't really want to re-enter all my settings...
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Checked my temps and they were high (136 high, 120 avg, 73 low). So I've improved airflow and venting.
Now I need to reset the counters to establish a new baseline - can that be done? I've thought about "Restoring Factory Defaults" but don't really want to re-enter all my settings...
Any ideas?
Thanks.
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My thought at this point is that I might look at fabricating up a nice shroud that will utilize the right side of the 622, same height as the unit, and about 1/2" to 3/4" thick (extending the width of the 622) and having it extend to the rear of the unit and force air down the shroud and into the vent holes with a 92mm fan.
As for resetting the temp counters, there has to be a way to do it without doing a factory restore. Because my low temp used to be 66, and then about a week ago it reset to 112. I'm thinking it was when I did a reset via the front panel power button (7 second thing).
As for resetting the temp counters, there has to be a way to do it without doing a factory restore. Because my low temp used to be 66, and then about a week ago it reset to 112. I'm thinking it was when I did a reset via the front panel power button (7 second thing).
reset...
my guess is when the new software is downloaded it probably resets the counters...
Update: New software download didn't reset counters... probably factory defaults would do the trick... and it's not worth it enough to do that.
my guess is when the new software is downloaded it probably resets the counters...
Kirby Baker said:
Update: New software download didn't reset counters... probably factory defaults would do the trick... and it's not worth it enough to do that.
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Using a laptop cooler now
I just put one of these under my 622:
http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=75004
I took the rubber feet off the bottom of the receiver and it's sitting right on top of the pad, the fan has two speeds (low is super quiet) and high is not too loud, it's hard to hear when i sit at my normal viewing distance (with tv on mute, and if i turn sound on i do not hear a thing), so far i'm going to run it in low mode, to see how the temps are, if i need to bump up the cooling i'll switch it to high, so far i can feel the heat from the exhaust ports, so that's a good thing. the case feels a bit cooler now.
Update: 1 week later running this fan on low mode... my average temp has gone from 123 to 113. I'm tempted to un plug the receiver for 30 minutes to allow it to fully cool then plug it back in to see what it would be... of course it'd be nice if i could just reset the counter... overall I'd recommend this product.
I just put one of these under my 622:
http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=75004
I took the rubber feet off the bottom of the receiver and it's sitting right on top of the pad, the fan has two speeds (low is super quiet) and high is not too loud, it's hard to hear when i sit at my normal viewing distance (with tv on mute, and if i turn sound on i do not hear a thing), so far i'm going to run it in low mode, to see how the temps are, if i need to bump up the cooling i'll switch it to high, so far i can feel the heat from the exhaust ports, so that's a good thing. the case feels a bit cooler now.
Update: 1 week later running this fan on low mode... my average temp has gone from 123 to 113. I'm tempted to un plug the receiver for 30 minutes to allow it to fully cool then plug it back in to see what it would be... of course it'd be nice if i could just reset the counter... overall I'd recommend this product.
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Hot 622...
I have been having problems with my 622... and it running hot and pixolating on my OTA channels where on my DIGITAL READY HDTV it doesnt pixolate at all. Dish is sending me a replacement 622 as the guy couldnt belive how hot it its... you can find out how hot your 622 runs by selecting the diagonstics menu (6,3) and select the counters button, using the page down button remote controll once in there you can view the HDD Temp...
Mine is running at a high temp of 138 Degrees F
Low 114 Degrees F
Average 125 Degrees F
Mine is in a well ventalated cabnet with nothing on the top or bottom of the reciver and shouldnt be getting that hot...
What is yours at???
Edit: most of my digital OTA is 85 or better
I have been having problems with my 622... and it running hot and pixolating on my OTA channels where on my DIGITAL READY HDTV it doesnt pixolate at all. Dish is sending me a replacement 622 as the guy couldnt belive how hot it its... you can find out how hot your 622 runs by selecting the diagonstics menu (6,3) and select the counters button, using the page down button remote controll once in there you can view the HDD Temp...
Mine is running at a high temp of 138 Degrees F
Low 114 Degrees F
Average 125 Degrees F
Mine is in a well ventalated cabnet with nothing on the top or bottom of the reciver and shouldnt be getting that hot...
What is yours at???
Edit: most of my digital OTA is 85 or better
Doesn't sound all that "hot" to me, but that perspective's based on my 622's numbers...
High Temp 136
Low Temp 111
Avg Temp 120
Also, it never feels particularly hot to the touch.
The only problem I've had with OTA has been the mysterious disappearing DVR timers with each EPG update issue. Signal strength is usually in the 70-100% range.
I get occasional smearing, pixelation, and audio dropout on HD LiL's but, I've been attributing that to source and low bitrate issues.
High Temp 136
Low Temp 111
Avg Temp 120
Also, it never feels particularly hot to the touch.
The only problem I've had with OTA has been the mysterious disappearing DVR timers with each EPG update issue. Signal strength is usually in the 70-100% range.
I get occasional smearing, pixelation, and audio dropout on HD LiL's but, I've been attributing that to source and low bitrate issues.
Again...I solved the problem by putting quater inch spacers under each the feet. That raised it just enough to improve the air flow and lower the temperature. Ihad the same problem with my 942. And my unit is in the open with nothing in any of the sides. Totally in the open.
