Oh man, that SUCKS.
I guess I'll trawl eBay for a DPP44 or maybe just subscribe to HD, since my market calls for wing dishes for HD and that definitely requires four satellites for my package.
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are DP separators compatible with a DP34 switch??
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Oh man, that SUCKS.
I guess I'll trawl eBay for a DPP44 or maybe just subscribe to HD, since my market calls for wing dishes for HD and that definitely requires four satellites for my package.
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I've not installed any of the new Dish 1000.2 dishes. I know that they have four outputs on them. I assume that one of them is to connect another dish for another slot and the three other ones go to the receivers each being able to use a DPP Separator. Am I right? If so it would eliminate my need for these DP-34 switches that I have and would make for less wires and simpler setup.
I bought a DPP twin off ebay for $20. I intend to disassemble it and see if I can turn it into a functioning DPP32.
Aegrotatio & TheKrell
And if you use 4 diplexers, you should be able to send OTA down one cable and Cable TV down the second cable.
Although with DishPro equipment/signals you can not send satellite signals from 2 separate satellites down one cable, you should be able to use a couple of diplexers on the cable and send an OTA signal or a Cable TV signal.
And if you use 4 diplexers, you should be able to send OTA down one cable and Cable TV down the second cable.
I agree it's a good explanation.
But he'll have to pass on the grand prize do to a typo.
Legacy equipment uses 18 Volts for Even; and for Odd uses 13 volts, not 14.
You're correct Stargazer. The 1000.2 has 3 outputs for dual tuners with DP Separators and it also has an input for another satellite location. You can have 4 orbital locations going to 3 dual tuners with a single cable with no external switch involved.
DPP twin
As promised, I have disassembled my DPP twin with an eye toward cannibalizing it for it's DPP32 switch. The first picture is of the assembly with the back cover plate removed. The second is with the cast Al back plate/waveguide removed. The black circles surround two small coax cables coming from behind the LNB PC board. The question of the hour is, can I solder in two coaxes coming from my DP34 feedthrough and have this work as a DPP32 switch?
As promised, I have disassembled my DPP twin with an eye toward cannibalizing it for it's DPP32 switch. The first picture is of the assembly with the back cover plate removed. The second is with the cast Al back plate/waveguide removed. The black circles surround two small coax cables coming from behind the LNB PC board. The question of the hour is, can I solder in two coaxes coming from my DP34 feedthrough and have this work as a DPP32 switch?
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Probably not, The DP34 feedthrough is a DP bandstacked, Diseqc controlled signal. The raw feedhorn signal is not bandstacked. You need to find the point between the DP circuitry and the DPP circuitry.
DPP Twin
I wanted to report great success with my cannibalization of a DPP twin for it's switch. I now have what amounts to a DPP32 switch. I did this to conserve cables from my attic to my basement, since the previously-announced DPP33 has never been released, and since I didn't want to spring for a DPP44. My DPP twin cost me $20.
I soldered 2 2ft RG6 cables onto the lower PC board where the tiny coaxes from the LNB/feedhorn assembly formerly were. (I circled them with black circles in the 2nd picture above.) I threw out everything I no longer needed, and cabled up the aforementioned 2 cables with a 3rd on the DPP twin's input (for 61.5), and attached them to the feedthrough connectors of my DP34 switch.
I attached the DPP splitter that came with my 625, and now it reports "DPP twin" for the switch. All satellites are visible as they should be for both tuners, and the signal strength looks the same as before. Works great!
I wanted to report great success with my cannibalization of a DPP twin for it's switch. I now have what amounts to a DPP32 switch. I did this to conserve cables from my attic to my basement, since the previously-announced DPP33 has never been released, and since I didn't want to spring for a DPP44. My DPP twin cost me $20.
I soldered 2 2ft RG6 cables onto the lower PC board where the tiny coaxes from the LNB/feedhorn assembly formerly were. (I circled them with black circles in the 2nd picture above.) I threw out everything I no longer needed, and cabled up the aforementioned 2 cables with a 3rd on the DPP twin's input (for 61.5), and attached them to the feedthrough connectors of my DP34 switch.
I attached the DPP splitter that came with my 625, and now it reports "DPP twin" for the switch. All satellites are visible as they should be for both tuners, and the signal strength looks the same as before. Works great!
That's cool..Now can you post pics of the finished product, Doctor?I wanted to report great success with my cannibalization of a DPP twin for it's switch. I now have what amounts to a DPP32 switch. I did this to conserve cables from my attic to my basement, since the previously-announced DPP33 has never been released, and since I didn't want to spring for a DPP44. My DPP twin cost me $20.
I soldered 2 2ft RG6 cables onto the lower PC board where the tiny coaxes from the LNB/feedhorn assembly formerly were. (I circled them with black circles in the 2nd picture above.) I threw out everything I no longer needed, and cabled up the aforementioned 2 cables with a 3rd on the DPP twin's input (for 61.5), and attached them to the feedthrough connectors of my DP34 switch.
I attached the DPP splitter that came with my 625, and now it reports "DPP twin" for the switch. All satellites are visible as they should be for both tuners, and the signal strength looks the same as before. Works great!
I'm afraid I didn't take any. I threw out the LNB PC board (copper and green board on upper-right in the 2nd pic above) and the waveguide/backing plate (dark gray piece on the left in 2nd pic). I also unscrewed and discarded the upper feedhorn assembly, which is the part with the white plastic cover. This leaves only the integrated lower feedhorn assembly with the switch; 3/4 of this odd-shaped box is empty. I simply fed cables through the mylar windows covering the lower feedhorns, routed them to the switch PC board, and soldered them where the little ones formerly were (inside the black circle). I closed it up with the silver back plate for RF shielding, but didn't bother sealing anything since this is now cable-tied to a rafter inside my attic. It's not pretty but it works.
You can buy plastic enclosures at Radio Shack. You might even be able to get some metal ones there. Another possibility is to gut a DP34 and mount it inside of that. Just solder on some F-barrels on those contacts you circled.
I'm willing to bet that if you can make these weatherproof, you could probably sell a few of them.
I'm willing to bet that if you can make these weatherproof, you could probably sell a few of them.
TheKrell,
Cool bit of work. You said you used the feedthrough ports from a DP34. I can see a use for this where 2 dual tuner DVRs (or a 222) are used along with single tuner receivers. I wonder if one could use a standard DP Twin as a DP22 switch the same way. I can see where these would be handy when DP Duals are used instead of Twins.
Miner
Cool bit of work. You said you used the feedthrough ports from a DP34. I can see a use for this where 2 dual tuner DVRs (or a 222) are used along with single tuner receivers. I wonder if one could use a standard DP Twin as a DP22 switch the same way. I can see where these would be handy when DP Duals are used instead of Twins.
Miner
This goes back aways but...Mr. Whoopie, you're the greatest!!!!!
Tennessee Tuxedo...
Thanks. But inquiring minds want to know. Why would you cannibalize a DP twin, when you could more easily just use it in place of two duals?
TheKrell, could you do some measurements ? I have bad DPP Twin - see the post/thread http://www.satelliteguys.us/906088-post53.html
