So how do I install a zerk? Drill a hole and then the zerk just snaps into the hole? Or does the actuator have to be disassembled.
Actuator noise
- Thread starter ZetaMale
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 46
- Views 5K
So how do I install a zerk? Drill a hole and then the zerk just snaps into the hole? Or does the actuator have to be disassembled.
A Zerk you get should have a tapered thread. Get a good, sharp set of drills and pick one that is no bigger than the smallest part of the taper on the Zerk. So far, so good?
Pick a place on the bottom of the actuator arm about in the middle of it's length. Center punch it.
If you have a small magnet you could tape to the drill bit to catch cuttings that would be cool. A spot of grease where you drill the hole is smart too.
Important: Extend the arm as far as you can to it's limit. Do that now!
Drill slowly just until the bit breaks through the actuator arm. Not really all the way. The drill bit taper should show still.
Wipe off the cuttings.
Best way I've seen that works is to clamp the Zerk straight in a pair of Vice Grips and see if it will thread in the hole you drilled.
The idea is to get a hole in the arm so the Zerk threads in very snug and probably no more than 2 - 2 1/2 turns.
That's so the Zerk threads don't go in too deep inside of the arm.
Get your grease gun and extend the arm. Give it a couple of pumps. Retract and extend it a few times to spread the grease around inside and give it a pump or 2 more. If it squishes out, wipe it up.
The motor whine is another issue....but.
Good write up huh?
I have a (somehat noisy) Venture acme screw drive that's going on 28 years of service on my old 10' Perfect 10 here that is on the same maintenance schedule as yours...if it croaked tomorrow I couldn't kick too hard.
Would definitely buy another one to replace it when it's time.
Does it matter if a switching power supply is used? I suppose it could induce noise spikes into the pulse counting line even though it's suppose to be shielded.
I'm all for an old-school transformer, 6-amp bridge rectifier for DC output, (maybe an electrolytic cap across the output) and a couple relays myself. The G-Box controls the relay coils on this outrigger box, and those relays control East or West movement. These relays are hooked to the output of the 36v higher current transformer, after the bridge rectifier changes it to dc, so you can do a reverse job polarity wiring to go either East or West. It would be best to have it right close to the dish, as long as you have 120v AC there for the transformer, but that's not required.
I can't find a 120/36 VAC transformer that does 10A for less than $100. Not to mention other parts like a bridge rectifier, power cord and strain relief, fuses, electrolytic capacitor, terminals, relays, and a project box. That's why I've been considering a manufactured 10A switching power supply but I would still need a couple of relays, fuses, and a project box and I/O terminals. Probably would be less than the cost of a transformer. I'm surprised that my Gboxes haven't burned out.
I've put a few old school transformers into service running VBoxes and ASC1s. Doubles the power of the original unit.
Go ahead and try the switching supply idea. It may work fine, if they aren't lying about output. Or find an OLD school satellite actuator controller, and strip the transformer out of it. The old kind that control the old potentiometer type motors. I've seen those go fairly cheap (< $25) on Ebay or Facebook Marketplace from time to time. Or just transfer the higher power transformer into your present G-Box, as Magic has done above^^
Those don't look like Gbox enclosures that he's using. A sufficiently larger transformer won't fit my Gbox - I've tried. Not to mention you'd have to modify some other components to get more current.
Oh, Johnny, I can't draw you any more of a picture than I already have. I'm really trying to help you, really, but you have to stop coming up with excuses as to why things don't work for YOU.
IF you've worked on any electronics in your life, and I suspect you have, just pretend you are MacGyver, and find a way.
It's just not that hard, really.
New transformer doesn't fit the OLD box = Find a NEW box that it AND the G-box circuit board fits into. OR, put the transformer in a box by itself, and run some wires to it. OR, buy the Prosat controller box I linked above, remove everything except the transformer, and move the G-box circuit board (MINUS the weaker transformer) into IT.
Yeah, you might have to drill some holes, etc. But I'm sure you can do it if you just try. It doesn't have to be pretty, there's no awards, except that it will work, and you'll then be set for some time to come. That's reward all in itself. It would be nice if we could buy this stuff off the shelf, but we both know that's just not possible,
IF you've worked on any electronics in your life, and I suspect you have, just pretend you are MacGyver, and find a way.
It's just not that hard, really.
New transformer doesn't fit the OLD box = Find a NEW box that it AND the G-box circuit board fits into. OR, put the transformer in a box by itself, and run some wires to it. OR, buy the Prosat controller box I linked above, remove everything except the transformer, and move the G-box circuit board (MINUS the weaker transformer) into IT.
Yeah, you might have to drill some holes, etc. But I'm sure you can do it if you just try. It doesn't have to be pretty, there's no awards, except that it will work, and you'll then be set for some time to come. That's reward all in itself. It would be nice if we could buy this stuff off the shelf, but we both know that's just not possible,
It's not a matter of making something but more of the cost. Anyway, I'm not being critical of you and I wish people would stop being critical of me. And I have worked 40 years in electronics with some work fabricating stuff. But that doesn't mean that I know everything or have the best ideas. All I can say is put me on your ignore list or stop responding to my posts if you don't like what I post.
I never said I didn't like what you post. I don't understand why you take so much posts as critical of what you do, I am not being critical. Really, I'm NOT. If I was, I'd never post on one of your threads again, believe me. I really want to help, or try anyway.
I'm simply pointing out how to do it, and that it might take a little MacGyvering. Plenty of others have done it.
Can't help you on the cost part of it, but you could try asking in a post if somebody has a transformer they'd donate to you, or send for the cost of postage or something. Unfortunately, the receivers that had the huge transformers in them were/are heavy, which costs for postage. Perhaps you can find something local on Facebook Marketplace, or Craigslist or something. Plenty of people have old C-band receivers stashed in their garages and sheds, and would likely give them away for free. Get one of those and strip out the transformer. Start asking anybody, and passing the word.
Grain of salt time, boys. Several of 'us' have given very good suggestions and have tried to guide you on to get your system working in the couple of threads you have running.
Your frustration in crap not working, and ours in trying to help you isn't as bad as trying to mix oil and vinegar.
Johnny. Listen. I've seen how patient the others are in trying to help you, And I'm very sure we all feel for you as to your budget limitations.
We do NOT just blurt out random suggestions for you to try. They are educated, wise, and sometimes 'school of hard knocks'.
If you ask questions and a solution is offered, try it. Don't deny it, or say it sounds stupid.
You say you're experienced with electronics and some fabrication.
I've been around electronics and machinery long enough to know 2 schools of thought.
The tech who has a blown component and pulls another off of the shelf and swaps it out.
A bearing block that the bearing assy. pukes and you yank another off the shelf, swap it out and sh*t can the defective one.
OR you take the defective....power supply??....and put a new bridge in it. Take the bearing block and press a few new bearings in it.
The OR part was my world. No soap box junk here. I did "OK". My phone calls at work were screened because they knew the head hunters wanted me.
Google SMPS Series and Parallel wiring. 3X12=36. Wa-La! And with adjustable outputs you get higher or lower voltages.
Cheap? Nah. But it works. Be axin' me how I know. Ferrites on the output if you're worried about any hash.
Pull the danged motor off of the danged actuator. Run it. Does it whine? Straight cut or helical gears? Tear the contraption down. Go ahead. I know you can do it. I'm rootin' for ya, dude. Clean it out, grease it. Think ahead. 'hmmm....now lets see, i'll retract my actuator all the way in....crank it 3-4 turns out...and set my low limit switch right there. You CAN run the motor on a 12V car battery.
The zerk thing. I didn't just blurt that out. Commons sense would tell you you wouldn't cram one in to interfere with the inner actuator tube. Did you try working it with the motor off and the good ole DeWalt on the shaft to see if it makes noise?
I'm not siding with anyone here but primester here knows his beans dude.
Wash it a hundred times and the shirt still reads "It Won't Lick Itself". Lol!!!!
Your frustration in crap not working, and ours in trying to help you isn't as bad as trying to mix oil and vinegar.
Johnny. Listen. I've seen how patient the others are in trying to help you, And I'm very sure we all feel for you as to your budget limitations.
We do NOT just blurt out random suggestions for you to try. They are educated, wise, and sometimes 'school of hard knocks'.
If you ask questions and a solution is offered, try it. Don't deny it, or say it sounds stupid.
You say you're experienced with electronics and some fabrication.
I've been around electronics and machinery long enough to know 2 schools of thought.
The tech who has a blown component and pulls another off of the shelf and swaps it out.
A bearing block that the bearing assy. pukes and you yank another off the shelf, swap it out and sh*t can the defective one.
OR you take the defective....power supply??....and put a new bridge in it. Take the bearing block and press a few new bearings in it.
The OR part was my world. No soap box junk here. I did "OK". My phone calls at work were screened because they knew the head hunters wanted me.
Google SMPS Series and Parallel wiring. 3X12=36. Wa-La! And with adjustable outputs you get higher or lower voltages.
Cheap? Nah. But it works. Be axin' me how I know. Ferrites on the output if you're worried about any hash.
Pull the danged motor off of the danged actuator. Run it. Does it whine? Straight cut or helical gears? Tear the contraption down. Go ahead. I know you can do it. I'm rootin' for ya, dude. Clean it out, grease it. Think ahead. 'hmmm....now lets see, i'll retract my actuator all the way in....crank it 3-4 turns out...and set my low limit switch right there. You CAN run the motor on a 12V car battery.
The zerk thing. I didn't just blurt that out. Commons sense would tell you you wouldn't cram one in to interfere with the inner actuator tube. Did you try working it with the motor off and the good ole DeWalt on the shaft to see if it makes noise?
I'm not siding with anyone here but primester here knows his beans dude.
Wash it a hundred times and the shirt still reads "It Won't Lick Itself". Lol!!!!
Any particular place to install the zerk? I would assume that the actuator should be fully extended to do this. I got a package of zerks that will thread into a 1/4" hole. And does the actuator have to be fully retracted to grease it through the zerk? I have a combo drill bit and 1/4" tap so I'm ready to do this.
I've located the grease fittings about middle of the length of the tube. Yes. Extend the tube fully. Same when you pump grease into it.
Be careful. Drill with a tap? Is the thread for a pipe thread or machine thread? Look at it closely an compare it to the Zerk so you don't end up drilling too big. I've only ever had to drill a hole and let the fitting thread itself.
I got one zerk put in and it threaded nicely. I couldn't find any fittings, locally, that are self threading. Now I need to run out and buy more grease. Do you have a recommendation for the grease? It's interesting that you say to fully extend the tube to grease it because that'll require a lot of grease to fill the void. (or am I missing something about these things?).
Depends where you live. I get -30 winters and Lucas low temp. red grease works fine.
Hah! Don't pump the tube full. 4-6 pumps and retract it, then extend it again to spread it around.
At some point it will start squishing out. Possibly with some old crap and corruption too. So be ready to wipe up the mess.
Hah! Don't pump the tube full. 4-6 pumps and retract it, then extend it again to spread it around.
At some point it will start squishing out. Possibly with some old crap and corruption too. So be ready to wipe up the mess.
I did 6 pumps and cycled the actuator but I don't see any grease on the shaft. So, I emptied a 3 oz tube of grease into both actuators and still no evidence of grease on the shaft. The grease tubes were empty when done so the grease must have gone into the actuator tube.
I've never read someone putting that much effort into an arm before. Kudos. I would of just bought a new one.
Sent from my LM-G710VM using the SatelliteGuys app!
Sent from my LM-G710VM using the SatelliteGuys app!
Similar threads
