4DTV/GeoSatPro C-2

[GreatFTA]

I checked with other forums. One member mentioned that he use a C-2 on his 4DTV and it work fine, as far as changing TPs and polarities on the analog satellites. For some reason my 920 is not switching Tps and polarities, so it is either in the electronic switching or I need to turn the C-2 some more.
While using my ORB-5000, I had no problems with that issue. Is the 4DTV different as far as this issue is concerned?

 

[Mr Tony]

my old Toshiba analog will only get the H poalrity unless I physically turn the LNB 90 degrees

The analog that I posted a while back...the one that was on Ebay...works fine with a LNBF

 

[truckracer]

On w5 I am showing a +12.0 on the 10'
on G1 I am getting a +10/+11 on the 10'
G5 - +15

 

[GreatFTA]

Good news, everybody!
I got the issue resolved!!!
Today was the best day (weather wise) to do what needed to be done to figure out what to do with the 920/C2 issue.
I unhooked the RG-6 cable to check the voltage at the IF input with my voltage meter. While changing Tps the 13/18V is working fine. I hook the RG-6 back and went out to the dish. With the LNBF setting (C2) I noticed that the "0" marking is at the 6 o'clock position. The reason it was there was when I was setting the skew with ORB-5000 IRD it worked at that position.
But when I got my 920 set up, the polarities were hell to set in.
So I set the "0" marking and started at the 9 o'clock position and turned it toward the 12 o'clock position. Boom! I finally got it to where I can change Tps and it polarities with no issues.
Part of the problem was the IF input itself. At first, when I went to the dish, I checked the 13/18 voltage at the end of the RG-6 cable. Nothing. So I went back to the 920 and removed the RG-6 cable and rechecked the 13/18V at the input. Still working fine. I took a short RG-6 cable and put it on the IF input. I took the meter and checked the other end of the cable. Nothing.
I took the cable back off and rechecked the voltages again. It was ok. Found another short cable, hooked it on the IF input and checked again. Nothing. I tighten the hell out of the cable on the input and tested the voltage. This time I got a reading.
I put the cable from the dish and re-hooked it to the input and tighten it tight as I can get it.
On checking the cable end at the LNBF, I was getting the 13/18V again.
I was on G4 (99W) so I turned it on Tp16, it was ok. Went to 17, barely came in, so I turned the C2 back and forth until I got good video on both Tps.
I was a very happy camper at this point.
When I was putting my 920 back on the shelf, the picture of the Shepherd's Chapel all the sudden faded out.
I gently shook the cable to the back of the receiver and noticed while I was shaking the cable , the channel would fade in and out. I re tighten the cable end very tight. The picture came back on again. Solid picture, until I touch the cable and it loses picture. I remember that while the 920 was in the bedroom, I had that problem. I changed the cable ends a few times but the problem persisted. I had to twist the cable in a certain way for it to work.
So now I have to twist this cable in a certain way to maintain what it suppose to do.
I figured that the IF input center (where the copper wire insert to receive the video/audio signals from the LNBF) has worn down to where that center copper wire makes contact.

 

[GreatFTA]

Now I am getting good results on the Tps and the polarities. I wish I can change that IF input but look like it is enclosed inside the modulator. At this point I ain't fooling with that until later on.
Thank you guys for all the help and suggestions.
Soon I will have to set the signal of the UHF of the remote and 920. I found a site and downloaded it into the PDF format. The signal between the UHF antenna and remote is pitiful.
The PDF will show me step by step on changing its waves strength so I can use the remote anywhere in my house.

 

[crackt]

Now I am getting good results on the Tps and the polarities. I wish I can change that IF input but look like it is enclosed inside the modulator. At this point I ain't fooling with that until later on.
Thank you guys for all the help and suggestions.
Soon I will have to set the signal of the UHF of the remote and 920. I found a site and downloaded it into the PDF format. The signal between the UHF antenna and remote is pitiful.
The PDF will show me step by step on changing its waves strength so I can use the remote anywhere in my house.

to change out the coax connector on the 920 would be abit of work. id try bending the copper coax lead in a hook shape before inserting it, trying to force a better connection. glad you got it sorted.

crackt out,.

 

[GreatFTA]

Yea, I know. As long as the coax is in a certain position, the picture will be ok.

 

[Mr Tony]

sounds like you need a new connector on it

 

[tvropro]

I would cut the cable back a few inches and put a new connector on it. Hopefully that will solve the problem. If the coax input on the tuner of the 920 is worn or has a cold solider joint on the tuner board it can be a little chore to fix but can be done. I've done that on tv sets tuners before.

 

[GreatFTA]

Iceberg, Tvropro,
I tried that. I cut off over a foot off the coax and put another connector on it. Still does the same thing.
I had this problem when it was in the bedroom. The connector input on the 4DTV must have a worn out place where the center wire of the coax fit in, not able to make full contact, or the solder at the terminal may have cracked, not allowing full contact to provide proper current to the LNBF. That is what Dishdigger is thinking when I talked to him about it at work.
As long the coax cable is twisted a certain way, I am fine.

 

[Corrado]

I would be concerned about causing damage to the receiver if this condition is the result of shorting inside the connector housing.

Can you see the inside where the center conductor inserts? Perhaps it's spread open?

 

[GreatFTA]

I would be concerned about causing damage to the receiver if this condition is the result of shorting inside the connector housing.

Can you see the inside where the center conductor inserts? Perhaps it's spread open?

I will check and see tomorrow. That's what I have been thinking too. The modulator is in the up right position. The C-Band input at top.
What I might do is to put a short RG-6 coax on the input and solder where the center conductor is, to make a solid connection. Then I would hook the RG-6 from the dish to the short coax.