We had one old farmer on the forum that painted his John Deere green and yellow. It actually looked good
Do any pics exist of that dish?We had one old farmer on the forum that painted his John Deere green and yellow. It actually looked good
I looked and found that the member (Auric) had posted links to a 3rd party hosting site instead of the pics themselves and they are no longer active From back in 2012.Do any pics exist of that dish?
Oh well.I looked and found that the member (Auric) had posted links to a 3rd party hosting site instead of the pics themselves and they are no longer active From back in 2012.
That might be true if you are talking about junk Chinese LNBF's. But you get what you pay for. I find Titanium LNBF's to work even better than my Norsat 8115's I used to use.
I guess a Norsat 8115, put it against what I got Norsat 3220 a high end LNB, using a Bullseye II, where is the ku band on that LNBF?
I guess a Norsat 8115, put it against what I got Norsat 3220 a high end LNB, using a Bullseye II, where is the ku band on that LNBF?
That's not a KU band lnb, it's C-band only.
Isn't solar radiation only an issue at times with the focus of the dish comes into direct alignment with both the satellite and the sun- during a single week in March and in October? This results in the wipeout of c-band signals for at most a few minutes in mid-afternoon. On analog it could be seen on-screen as light sparklies (loss of signal) creeping in, worsening to unviewable, then back to light and then gone. AKA Solar Transit Effect. No differences in painting of dish will prevent the interference, OR cause it to happen outside of the small windows in spring & fall. However, it may be noted that a highly polished reflective surface such as stainless steel, which some early c-band dishes were made from, can produce such an efficient radiation transfer, during the Solar Transit, as to melt feed components. This is of course what thermal solar generation is based on, a large reflector focused on a smaller heat-absorbing element.There is no advantage in the choice of paint color. Some prefer grey, others prefer black and some like camouflage. Just be sure to use a flat vs glossy paint to prevent the sunlight reflection into the feedhorn.
A button hook that is in good mechanical condition and centered on the reflector is easier to fine tune than a feed supported by 3 or 4 legs. Some prefer buttonhooks and others prefer legs. No right or wrong. No better or worse. As long as the feedhorn is stable, centered and adjustable.
Nice dish! I see that you're in Eastern Canada. How far east are you able to "see" with that dish? Wondering it you tried to scan some of the Atlantic satellites that are often too low for the rest of us (like 11W or 3W). Note that they would require the dielectric plate in the LNBF.Well I finally got my 10 ft mesh dish back together and working.Put a new C-band LNBF C1W-PLL lite Wideband 3.4 - 4.2GHz that I got from Brian and it works very well.Really pleased.Even watched a little bit of Green Acres on Galaxy 17.Still have some more tinkering do do with it but it is 95% there.Need about 200 feet of good coax to run to the house now.Even have a few pictures of the final resting place for this old dish.Love this new hobby!Thanks!
Nice dish! I see that you're in Eastern Canada. How far east are you able to "see" with that dish? Wondering it you tried to scan some of the Atlantic satellites that are often too low for the rest of us (like 11W or 3W). Note that they would require the dielectric plate in the LNBF.
That might be true if you are talking about junk Chinese LNBF's. But you get what you pay for. I find Titanium LNBF's to work even better than my Norsat 8115's I used to use.