I'll take "Name that satellite" for $500 please! HELP!

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Magic Static said:
When I put up my first C-Band dish it blew hard for a week straight. Record winds and my dish was unusable the whole time. I know how you feel. I was sure I was getting a dose of Instant Karma. ;)
Click to expand...

The dish IS installed and working at least, it's just my belief that it's not peaked quite as best it could be. I'd say it's probably 95% though, but definitely could be a bit better even for the fact it's only a 7.5ft dish. This has been a WILD month though! Going from a 3ABN $50 special, to a Winegard DS3100 with an HH motor, to finding this SAMI dish and taking it down at his house, to pulling the smaller pole (breaking a rib doing so) and installing a larger dish. Lots of fun!

Now after this upgraded sensor is installed, I hope to get my hands on a Pansat DP-4 ortho dual band feed. I already have all the lnbs, I just need to find the feed for (hopefully) trade...
 
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Well, this dish had ONE birth defect on the polar mount I just corrected. The Declination bolt on the bottom, they drilled the hole dead-center of the welded in metal piece. However, that meant the bolt was canted when adjusted, so you never could tighten the nuts on each side and still have that bolt straight. So the bolt was just held tight by two nuts that were slanted, and never could be tightened properly. I just couldn't quite get the mount peaked as well as it could be, so I decided to hold off on that for a bit, and drill a NEW bolt-hole slightly higher on that metal, so I could get that Declination bolt straightened. I did so, and it worked perfectly! I then double-checked and tweaked the elevation and Declination to make sure they were dead-on. I came back inside the house, drove the dish over to 113w (which was the furthest West I've been able to get so far with this dish), and now ALL the channels on this scan in, (only 4 did before) and come in at high quality 75% compared to before!

I haven't had time to see if the other sats are peaked better as well after this fix, but I'd bet they are. So far I can get sats from 55.5w Intelsat 34, all the way to 113w Satmex 6. My ku dish that was right here could get up to 121w, so I'll be checking those ones further West of 113 soon.

At my old house, I could never get anything further East than 72w, due to all the trees. This dish at the new house can get far MORE sats, and all these last two years I didn't figure I would be able to get hardly anything because of the West tree line!

Not sure how well you can see these pics, but here it is after being re-drilled. The silver colored blind bolthead, is in the original hole and tightened up since the new drilled hole is above, and close enough to the original hole I was concerned it might possibly eventually break through. This way it can't:

0831181548-00.jpg
0831181548-01.jpg
 
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I have an interesting phenomenon going on, and I'd not sure what to make of it.

Presently, I replaced the Titanium CK1S C/KU lnbf out, for a Titanium C2W-PLL dual c-band only lnbf. I bought this lnbf from Hypermegasat in early 2015, but never used it for now, so it's basically NOS. I have 100ft of quad-shield rg-6 coax running to the dish. At the dish, I have two 17' coaxes running from the C2W-PLL up in the nosecone, to a cable box mounted on the side of the pole. Inside the box, I have a dual coax grounding block, I'm using as a connector (this block is NOT actually grounded to the house ground at present) and each one of those 17' jumpers goes into a side on the grounding block. On the other side of the grounding block is one coax for the SatAv MicroHD receiver, and the other one goes to my new Amiko H265 receiver in the house. So, both receivers are hooked independently into a side of the C2W-PLL lnbf.

Anyway, earlier I moved the dish to 97W, and put on the Bounce channel in preparation for a movie that's coming up later. It came up fine and watchable on the MicroHD, no issues. The MicroHD is being used as the main receiver right now, and is hooked through a Sadoun G-box V3000 for moving the dish. The MicroHD stays turned on 24/7 to keep the clock for recordings. An hour or so later, I decided to turn on the Amiko H265 receiver, and see how things were coming in on this same sat. I checked channels, and it all seemed to work just fine on this receiver. I then turned OFF the Amiko H265 receiver with the remote, and went back to just the MicroHD. Bounce channel was now locked-up on the last scene. I hit the INFO button, and the quality level was just barely flicking up and down, and no picture on the screen. I thought: "This is weird, I wonder IF turning on the Amiko receiver had something to do with this, even though before I ever turned it on, this channel was working fine on the MicroHD?"

I stayed on the MicroHD receiver video input, and just hit the ON button for the Amiko. As soon as that booted up, Bounce came back up with full video, and full signal and quality level on the MicroHD!

If I turn OFF the Amiko, I lose signal again on the MicroHD! If I even just unscrew the coax from the Amiko, I lose signal on the MicroHD. It's almost as if the Amiko is sending through more power, and juicing up the LNBF to working status. YET earlier before I ever power up and then back down the Amiko H265, it worked just fine on the MicroHD all by itself...

Really odd.

Anybody got any ideas? I have not gone out and checked voltage coming out of the MicroHD as of yet, but it has worked fine earlier. Or maybe this is some sort of weird ground loop that's intermittent or what? Just nuts...

Is it possible the PLL lnbf is more or less at a "voltage threshold", and just needs a little more voltage than is getting through the 117' of coax from the MicroHD alone, and turning on the Amiko just juices it up more? How do I fix this? Can you use a powered switch with a dual lnbf of this sort, sort of a "poor-mans orthomode" setup? I think you can, but I've never done that. I assume if I try it, it should be a switch that is NOT modified for permanent 18volts on both inputs?
 
primestar31 said:
I have an interesting phenomenon going on, and I'd not sure what to make of it.

Presently, I replaced the Titanium CK1S C/KU lnbf out, for a Titanium C2W-PLL dual c-band only lnbf. I bought this lnbf from Hypermegasat in early 2015, but never used it for now, so it's basically NOS. I have 100ft of quad-shield rg-6 coax running to the dish. At the dish, I have two 17' coaxes running from the C2W-PLL up in the nosecone, to a cable box mounted on the side of the pole. Inside the box, I have a dual coax grounding block, I'm using as a connector (this block is NOT actually grounded to the house ground at present) and each one of those 17' jumpers goes into a side on the grounding block. On the other side of the grounding block is one coax for the SatAv MicroHD receiver, and the other one goes to my new Amiko H265 receiver in the house. So, both receivers are hooked independently into a side of the C2W-PLL lnbf.

Anyway, earlier I moved the dish to 97W, and put on the Bounce channel in preparation for a movie that's coming up later. It came up fine and watchable on the MicroHD, no issues. The MicroHD is being used as the main receiver right now, and is hooked through a Sadoun G-box V3000 for moving the dish. The MicroHD stays turned on 24/7 to keep the clock for recordings. An hour or so later, I decided to turn on the Amiko H265 receiver, and see how things were coming in on this same sat. I checked channels, and it all seemed to work just fine on this receiver. I then turned OFF the Amiko H265 receiver with the remote, and went back to just the MicroHD. Bounce channel was now locked-up on the last scene. I hit the INFO button, and the quality level was just barely flicking up and down, and no picture on the screen. I thought: "This is weird, I wonder IF turning on the Amiko receiver had something to do with this, even though before I ever turned it on, this channel was working fine on the MicroHD?"

I stayed on the MicroHD receiver video input, and just hit the ON button for the Amiko. As soon as that booted up, Bounce came back up with full video, and full signal and quality level on the MicroHD!

If I turn OFF the Amiko, I lose signal again on the MicroHD! If I even just unscrew the coax from the Amiko, I lose signal on the MicroHD. It's almost as if the Amiko is sending through more power, and juicing up the LNBF to working status. YET earlier before I ever power up and then back down the Amiko H265, it worked just fine on the MicroHD all by itself...

Really odd.

Anybody got any ideas? I have not gone out and checked voltage coming out of the MicroHD as of yet, but it has worked fine earlier. Or maybe this is some sort of weird ground loop that's intermittent or what? Just nuts...

Is it possible the PLL lnbf is more or less at a "voltage threshold", and just needs a little more voltage than is getting through the 117' of coax from the MicroHD alone, and turning on the Amiko just juices it up more? How do I fix this? Can you use a powered switch with a dual lnbf of this sort, sort of a "poor-mans orthomode" setup? I think you can, but I've never done that. I assume if I try it, it should be a switch that is NOT modified for permanent 18volts on both inputs?
Click to expand...

I would suggest you try to eliminate variables by swapping the receivers, and also swapping the coaxes between receivers and junction box and also between the junction box and the LNBF. Also see what happens when you take the G-Box out of the equation. Also, try this: disconnect both receiver coaxes from the ground block, turn on both receivers, and check if you have any voltage between the shields of both coaxes
 
Brct203 said:
I would suggest you try to eliminate variables by swapping the receivers, and also swapping the coaxes between receivers and junction box and also between the junction box and the LNBF. Also see what happens when you take the G-Box out of the equation. Also, try this: disconnect both receiver coaxes from the ground block, turn on both receivers, and check if you have any voltage between the shields of both coaxes
Click to expand...

Thanks! I also found this thread: Titanium Dual LNB Problems :( (which I haven't as of yet gotten all the way through reading) that appears to have just about the same problem I'm having. It has some testing in it that are basically what you suggest, by Brian (Titanium) that explains it better for my understanding. I will do these tests tomorrow, and see what I get. If there's voltage potentials where they shouldn't be, I'd sure like to know what's causing them. Both receivers are plugged into the same UPS, just with their own respective 12v bricks.
 
primestar31 said:
Thanks! I also found this thread: Titanium Dual LNB Problems :( (which I haven't as of yet gotten all the way through reading) that appears to have just about the same problem I'm having. It has some testing in it that are basically what you suggest, by Brian (Titanium) that explains it better for my understanding. I will do these tests tomorrow, and see what I get. If there's voltage potentials where they shouldn't be, I'd sure like to know what's causing them. Both receivers are plugged into the same UPS, just with their own respective 12v bricks.
Click to expand...
Ah, yes, good point, I do remember that thread. Unfortunately it does not seem to have any conclusion.

Another idea, it might be interesting to check for voltage between the 2 12v power supplies. I mean, between negative of one power supply and negative of the other.
 
Brct203 said:
Ah, yes, good point, I do remember that thread. Unfortunately it does not seem to have any conclusion.

Another idea, it might be interesting to check for voltage between the 2 12v power supplies. I mean, between negative of one power supply and negative of the other.
Click to expand...

Ok, it's pitch dark here already, but I had to try a couple things. I went back to 97w (from 87w), and put on Bounce channel on both receivers. It came in fine on both. I then turned OFF the Amiko, and signal dropped out to flickering on the MicroHD as stated above. I then went to the wiring box on the sat pole with a flashlight, and swapped out the common ground block for two separate couplers, but kept the coaxes from each receiver going to their original 17' jumper coming from the dual lnbf in the cone. I came back inside, and it made no difference. Turning ON the Amiko, I get signal on Bounce for both receivers. Turning it OFF, and signal drops on the MicroHD. I then went back out to the sat pole box, and removed the coax going to the Amiko from it's side of the dual lnbf. Back inside the house, the MicroHD has no signal on Bounce, whether the Amiko is turned on or off (remember, it's no longer connected to one side of the dual lnbf)

I then went back out to the sat pole, and SWAPPED the coax going to to MicroHD over to the side that was formerly connected to the Amiko. Back into the house, and I have PERFECT signal, and quality (much higher than ever before, not flickering up and down) and good video... Sounds like one side of the Titanium lnbf is possibly faulty. The next obvious test would be to connect the Amiko to the side that used to be connected to the MicroHD. However, I left the Amiko disconnected for now, as I'm going to be recording the horror movies on 87w later tonight, and I don't want to take a chance on it maybe blowing out the other side of the lnbf. Though real odd if completely faulty, because earlier the "bad side" was clearly working fine all by itself on just the MicroHD.

Tomorrow I'll do the various voltage checks for transients. Either way, the lnbf sounds like it might be (now be, always was?) faulty, but since I actually bought it 3 years ago and stuck it in a box never using it until now, I might be screwed on any possibly warranty. But, that would be up to Brian. Guess I'll deal with that issue after finding out if there's any voltage potentials causing issues that might have affected one side of the lnbf.
 
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FTA4PA said:
Hope you get it sorted out. :)

What channel are they on?
Click to expand...

Action channel from 12am to 2am ("Nightmare Castle") and then RTV West from 3am to 5am ("The Embalmer").

Here's my TitanTv tv guide Share Token for the FTA channels I've had time to put into the schedule so far. Put this in yours, (Create lineup from token) and you'll get the same guide I'm presently using:

iMQtZIUAFdVB6Aa3vIQqLtFuLlhV7ZKQFchfHCy7d3t2dQ-TT07T!g
 
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primestar31 said:
Action channel from 12am to 2am ("Nightmare Castle") and then RTV West from 3am to 5am ("The Embalmer").

Here's my TitanTv tv guide Share Token for the FTA channels I've had time to put into the schedule so far. Put this in yours, and you'll get the same guide I'm presently using:

iMQtZIUAFdVB6Aa3vIQqLtFuLlhV7ZKQFchfHCy7d3t2dQ-TT07T!g
Click to expand...
We mistakenly assumed that Action channel was only sports so been missing quite a bit on there. :( Thank you very much for the info and the Titan token! :):hatsoff2
 
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primestar31 said:
Ok, it's pitch dark here already, but I had to try a couple things. I went back to 97w (from 87w), and put on Bounce channel on both receivers. It came in fine on both. I then turned OFF the Amiko, and signal dropped out to flickering on the MicroHD as stated above. I then went to the wiring box on the sat pole with a flashlight, and swapped out the common ground block for two separate couplers, but kept the coaxes from each receiver going to their original 17' jumper coming from the dual lnbf in the cone. I came back inside, and it made no difference. Turning ON the Amiko, I get signal on Bounce for both receivers. Turning it OFF, and signal drops on the MicroHD. I then went back out to the sat pole box, and removed the coax going to the Amiko from it's side of the dual lnbf. Back inside the house, the MicroHD has no signal on Bounce, whether the Amiko is turned on or off (remember, it's no longer connected to one side of the dual lnbf)

I then went back out to the sat pole, and SWAPPED the coax going to to MicroHD over to the side that was formerly connected to the Amiko. Back into the house, and I have PERFECT signal, and quality (much higher than ever before, not flickering up and down) and good video... Sounds like one side of the Titanium lnbf is possibly faulty. The next obvious test would be to connect the Amiko to the side that used to be connected to the MicroHD. However, I left the Amiko disconnected for now, as I'm going to be recording the horror movies on 87w later tonight, and I don't want to take a chance on it maybe blowing out the other side of the lnbf. Though real odd if completely faulty, because earlier the "bad side" was clearly working fine all by itself on just the MicroHD.

Tomorrow I'll do the various voltage checks for transients. Either way, the lnbf sounds like it might be (now be, always was?) faulty, but since I actually bought it 3 years ago and stuck it in a box never using it until now, I might be screwed on any possibly warranty. But, that would be up to Brian. Guess I'll deal with that issue after finding out if there's any voltage potentials causing issues that might have affected one side of the lnbf.
Click to expand...

sounds a bit like that other thread that you were mentioning earlier Titanium Dual LNB Problems :(
check out post #26. I wonder if your LNBF might have the same problem
 
When Intelpenny's LNBF was sent in under the RMA, it was obvious that the LNBF had been exposed to an electrical event and had sustained damage to the PCB and several components. An IC was melted, light gauge (fuseable link) wire connecting the probe to the PCB replaced and flash marks inside the cavity.

I believe that there was two separate problems that happened in that thread. The first was resolved when a fitting was replaced and the second was later with an electrical event. It was impossible to determine the exact sequence of damage as Intelpenny had attempted repairs to the PCB.
 
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Titanium said:
When Intelpenny's LNBF was sent in under the RMA, it was obvious that the LNBF had been exposed to an electrical event and had sustained damage to the PCB and several components. An IC was melted, light gauge (fuseable link) wire connecting the probe to the PCB replaced and flash marks inside the cavity.

I believe that there was two separate problems that happened in that thread. The first was resolved when a fitting was replaced and the second was later with an electrical event. It was impossible to determine the exact sequence of damage as Intelpenny had attempted repairs to the PCB.
Click to expand...

Well, it appears that my two different sat receivers are coupling lnb voltage THROUGH my powered Blue Jeans Cable 5x1 HDMI switch I bought through Amazon years ago, which is how I've been switching them into the HDMI port #3 on my LG tv set. MicroHD is on port 5, and the Amiko H.265 is on port 1 of that switch. The switch is powered with it's own power brick, that's plugged into the same 3-way outlet that the Amiko is plugged into. Ultimately, they all go back into a 1500watt UPS. If I pull the HDMI video cables on each receiver, I no longer get spurious voltages where they shouldn't be.

Based on Brian's test in post #41 of Intelpennys thread here's what I got. The first numbers before the "---" I used as spacers are what Brian got at his test bench. Mine follow the multiple "---"'s. The middle set of numbers are MINE with BOTH hdmi cables CONNECTED to the back of each receiver. The last right-hand set of numbers are MINE, with both HDMI cables REMOVED from the back of each receiver. All other parameters are set as Brian lays out. In my case, these are the receivers. This also explains why the MicroHD was fine by itself originally yesterday morning, until the hour or so later when I turned ON the Amiko receiver (which had been OFF for several days, so probably drained off any spurious voltage by then, as this issue isn't new, but has been extremely intermittent. In fact I sent a PM to Brian on this past Monday, when I first noticed it after trying an unpowered switch out at the dish. But I had to wait more than a day to do the voltage tests, and by then it all was working fine again...:

Amiko H.265 is STB1
SatAv MicroHD is STB2
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#1 Test: Two STBs set to vertical polarity with switching power supplies connected to the same power strip (no ground on power supply AC/DC transformers). Two 3' coax cables each connected to one STB. Multi-meter voltage test between unloaded coax cables. Ground source is the plate cover screw.

STB 1: Center1 to Braid1 - 13.77Vdc ------------- 13.88Vdc --------- 13.86Vdc
STB 2: Center2 to Braid2 - 13.81Vdc ------------- 13.98Vdc --------- 13.99Vdc
Center1 to Center2 - 0Vdc ---------------------------- 0Vdc -------------- 0Vdc
Center1 to Braid2 - 0Vdc ---------------------------- 13.89Vdc --------- 0Vdc
Center2 to Braid1 - 0Vdc ---------------------------- 13.96Vdc --------- 0Vdc
Center1 to Ground - 27.5Vac ------------------------ 29.9Vac ----------- 29.8Vac
Center2 to Ground - 27.6Vac ------------------------ 29.9Vac ----------- 29.9Vac
Braid1 to Ground - 27.5Vac ------------------------- 0Vac---------------- 0Vac
Braid2 to Ground - 27.6Vac -------------------------- 0Vac---------------- 0Vac
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I do have another HDMI switch I've never used, that's a different brand that might not have this issue. As for the C2W-PLL LNBF, I'm not yet sure if that second port is now blown forever or not, but it may be. Once I get the spurious voltage issue between the receivers sorted out, I'll test that LNBF individually with each receiver.
 
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Bad news, the other HDMI switch (Kinovo) that I just now unboxed, has the same issue. It couples the lnb voltage through the HDMI video.

I do have another sat receiver I could put in the mix in place of one of the other receivers, but it's an Amiko A3 I haven't used for a couple years, and the remote isn't charged up at present. I'm charging that now, and we'll see what happens.

Ultimately, I'm not sure if this problem is fixable to leave both receivers connected to this same tv set. I have no idea why lnb voltage should couple through the HDMI video port... I only have 3 HDMI ports on my tv set, and they are all in play. I guess I could try moving my Chromecast off of the tv's HDMI 2, and putting one of the sat receivers there. Then put the Chromecast on the HDMI switch in place of the sat receiver...

Ultimately, I'd prefer to just use the new Amiko H.265 receiver as my new and only receiver, except it doesn't have enough DVR ability as I stated in another post, like the MicroHD does. The MicroHD is far superior in that specific thing, and that's a MUST HAVE ability for me. I'd have thought that the Amiko being much newer, would have come with the ability for file marking and such.
 
Just throwing this out there as an idea. The thread below mentions problems and damage caused by voltage being back-fed through HDMI cables.

HDMI cable backfeeding Voltage from TV to cable Box - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews

Two sources of voltage are mentioned. The first is possiblity of the a/c outlet polarity being reversed (ie: wired wrong). This is not likely your issue as you mention all items are powered by a UPS and the UPS should indicate a wiring fault if it existed but worth verifying with a receptacle tester to be sure. The second source is leakage current from newer switch-mode power supplies. This is first mentioned in post 6 of the thread. Basically, equipment with 2 wire power supplies has no way to shunt this leakage current to ground so it will try to find another way to get there. You mentioned in your post (#63) that the coax was not bonded to the house ground so wondering if it is using the coax to find a way back to the house ground?
 
It's true that at present the coax connector coupler OUT AT THE DISH is not bonded to the house ground out there. However, all the testing I did above was in the house, only using short coax jumpers on the receivers, and hanging in the air for meter connections. They were disconnected from the outside coaxes going to the sat pole. The only main commonalities during testing was the HDMI connections, and the fact they are both plugged into the same UPS. Everything else was isolated.

I charged the A3's remote enough to set that receiver to a V transponder, and did the same tests while having it connected in place of my new Amiko H265 receiver. Unfortunately, it has the same problem with lnb voltage coupling through the HDMI connections. As soon as I pull out either HDMI connection from either the MicroHD or A3, the voltage coupling vanishes.

I have not yet tried putting one of them alone on a direct HDMI port on the tv set itself. My wife is about to get home from work, and she won't like me doing that when she's here.

Anyway, the ultimate aim I had once my new SAMI dish system was completely installed, aimed, and locked down using the receiver I was familiar with (MicroHD), was to only use the Amiko H265 receiver. However, I'm not going to use it at all now, until or if they come out with an enhanced firmware to choose my own NTP time server, and give me better dvr controls for marking and jumping within files. Otherwise it's going into a drawer, and I'll stay with the MicroHD.

Aren't there any other sat receivers, that have the DVR abilities of the much older MicroHD receiver? I can't afford to buy more just at random, in hopes to find the ONE I'd rather use as my main receiver.

P.S. I have one of those outlet polarity testers, and I just double-checked the outlet the UPS is plugged into. It is wired correctly, no issues. I had originally tested it back when we first bought this house, and nothings changed since then. But it was a good double-check anyway to rule it out.
 
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Ok, I just tried two more things, as the wife was really late coming home. I routed the OTA antenna coax going to the tv sets Antenna IN jack through the UPS, in hopes it would maybe isolate any common voltage issues in the tv chassis. It didn't make any difference, still have the lnb voltage coupling through HDMI. By the way, both my OTA antenna mast pipe and coax (through an outside ground block) IS directly grounded to the houses common ground rod. I ran an 8 gauge wire 85' from the antenna mast on one end of the house, to the other side of the house where the ground rod is at the electrical entrance.

I then moved the MicroHD receivers HDMI out directly to the tv sets HDMI port 2 in, and left the Amiko H265 HDMI connected through the HDMI switch, which is still on the tv sets HDMI port 3. No difference, lnb voltage still couples through HDMI. If I pull the HDMI plug out of the back of the Amiko, the vertical lnb voltage between it's center coax stinger and the MicroHD's coax ground braid ceases. I don't think there's anyway to isolate this and still run both sat receivers on this same tv set. So, it looks like I'm screwed for doing that, and will just stay with a single sat receiver.

I'll test the "bad" port on the Titanium C2W-PLL next with just the MicroHD by switching it's coax over to it, and see if it's still zapped, or whatever. Since the Amiko has now been disconnected from it for close to 24 hours, maybe any stray voltage bled off of it. I'm hoping, but I guess we will see...

Ok, just came in from swapping the coax on the MicroHD to the other port on the C2W-PLL that was acting up. It's not working right. On vertical channels, they come in, but are tiling. Signal/Quality meters look ok though, and stay up. On Horizontal transponders, Signal/Quality also stays up, but channels are slightly tiling or having "jumping/hesitating video". Real odd...

I'll have to check with Brian whether this still has any warranty coverage since maybe the voltage coupling caused the failure? I still have my emailed receipt from Hypermegasat, though 3 years old but this lnbf was never used before now.
 
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By any chance you have a cable converter or other grounded device connected to the TV? Since most electronic devices no longer have a direct ground connection, the HDMI connection may be providing a low resistance path to an alternate ground (OTA antenna) or via a different connected device.
 
Titanium said:
By any chance you have a cable converter or other grounded device connected to the TV? Since most electronic devices no longer have a direct ground connection, the HDMI connection may be providing a low resistance path to an alternate ground (OTA antenna) or via a different connected device.
Click to expand...

Not that I'm aware of, though as stated above I just within the last hour or so connected the OTA antenna coax through the coax connectors on my CP1500AVRLCD UPS in hopes in would clear this up. But as stated, it made no difference. The tv set actually has a 3 wire GROUNDED plug. Whether it's really bonded to the tv chassis, I don't know. Also, it's plugged into a 6-way outlet plug that's then plugged into the UPS. Maybe that's somehow an issue. I'll try swapping it later to it's own outlet on the UPS, but the wife is watching tv now so it'll have to wait a couple hours.

I have these connected:

Hdmi 1: Tivo Roamio basic
Hdmi 2: Chromecast
Hdmi 3: 5-port HDMI switch which has these connected: Amiko H265 port 1(now disconnected) Blueray player port 2, Roku 3 port 3, WDTV device port 4, MicroHD port
USB port 1: Remote wireless dongle for a wireless keyboard.
Composite 1: Old-school VCR
Antenna input: OTA antenna coax, which is fully grounded and bonded to the house ground as stated in above post

I have NEVER had any apparent stray voltage issues like this before, since I bought this tv set in 2013. I checked all the wiring and outlets in this house before we moved in. All these same devices have been hooked up all these years, with the exception of the Amiko H265, which is brand new...

By the way, I updated my post above about the 2nd port on the C2W-PLL, while you must have been entering your two new posts. You might want to re-read the last couple sentences.
 
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