This is the first I've seen of the grounding cable from the LNBF to the Hub. It totally makes sense, just never thought about it. I don't think my current setup has a grounding line, so not sure how I'm going to manage that
My HwS install the tech was constantly pulling them off. But I think I have one from the dish to the Node, since he ran a single torn from a pair and a "clean" pair with one and actually used it as a ground, that would be nice. Less work for them.It's called a messenger wire and is usually part of the dual coax.
a direct Ethernet connection to the hopper is the most preferred connection method. the hic is for a couple of different uses. one is to relocate the WAP for WiFi joeys to achieve a more centralized location for it. another reason is to give a wired BB connection in situations where one isn't available at hopper location. personally i feel if you can avoid adding components to a system then do it. but the hic is there in case you don't have that option.I think the HIC is better as the Joeys don't rely on the Hopper for their internet connection. Also with a HIC you can use the Hopper's ethernet ports for feeding internet to other devices by turning on bridging, (NOT supported by Dish).
also bridging is now automatically turned on by default during the initial software download and start up.a direct Ethernet connection to the hopper is the most preferred connection method. the hic is for a couple of different uses. one is to relocate the WAP for WiFi joeys to achieve a more centralized location for it. another reason is to give a wired BB connection in situations where one isn't available at hopper location. personally i feel if you can avoid adding components to a system then do it. but the hic is there in case you don't have that option.
Unless a HIC is detected.also bridging is now automatically turned on by default during the initial software download and start up.
messenger should only be used from dish to GB, NODE,SWITCH, OR HUB. from there you need a 10awg solid to the ground source to comply with NEC code.My HwS install the tech was constantly pulling them off. But I think I have one from the dish to the Node, since he ran a single torn from a pair and a "clean" pair with one and actually used it as a ground, that would be nice. Less work for them.
Ditto -- the only "trick" I have to remember with my 3 Hoppers is to power up the one connected to WIFI first . . . Then the other two. Otherwise, they can get confused.I have always had excellent service from using wireless. I have about 85-90% signal strength. Saves having to have another wire to hide.
And also in that picture with the TAP in the 6 room setup, I'm guessing you can't split after that tap for the 7 room setup?
Are you not aloud to use 3 way splitters instead of those Dumb Taps?
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