Almost every commercial DIRECTV installation needs a trunk amplifier. The right one to choose for today’s needs is the STA-R0-09. No, it doesn’t have a catchy name. But, it’s top-quality and works with all current DIRECTV installs. It’s still possible to get some of the older amplifiers out there but to be really honest I don’t recommend doing it that way. The STA-R0-09 is fairly priced, well-built, and futureproof. It’s also the most powerful amplifier out there, giving a normalized output up to a scorching 0dBm. This should let you easily get 300 feet from amplifier to multiswitch.
The amp itself is dead simple to use. Connect it up and in most cases you will see six green lights indicating that the amp has enough signal to work properly. However, if you’re reading this article you are probably seeing at least one red light. Here’s what you need to know.
The leftmost light is the power light. All it’s telling you is whether or not it’s supplying power to the OUT 29V port. Personally I don’t recommend trying to supply power to another device through that port. I think it’s best to power everything individually. So that light should be green all the time.
The other six lights show the signal level coming into the amplifier itself. Here’s a quick explanation of what it means, and it’s also printed right on the amp itself.
The blinking red light means either no signal or low signal on the input port. The input signal must be between -24dBm and +1dBm. If it’s not, there are two possibilities, and there’s a way to fix both.
If there’s no signal, that can mean several things. If you are using a Reverse Band 5 Legacy LNB, you need to be supplying power using a polarity locker. Lines 5 and 6 need to be powered directly, unlike lines 1-4 which can get power from only a single cable. If you are using a polarity locker within 50 feet of the dish, make sure that it’s working properly and check the voltage at the dish. You should see 18V or more.
It’s also possible that there’s a break in the line or a bad connector leading to low signal. Test the signal using an AIM meter to see if the signal is low or completely gone. You may need to reconnectorize or change out a cable.
If the signal level is too low to use, you’ll need to move the amplifier closer to the dish or add a second amplifier. As a general rule of thumb, measure the signal level at the dish and assume you’ll lose 6dB per 100 feet. So, for example, if the output from the dish is at -20, you know you need the amplifier to be less than about 80 feet from the dish. You can use RG11 if you have runs of 100 feet or more but I don’t recommend it for shorter runs.
The STA amplifier is designed to offer a gain-controlled signal level of 0dBm. The input window for the SWM multiswitch is -25 to -45dBm. You can turn the signal level down to -10dBm by using the adjustment knobs on the front. If you’re still too hot at the point where the signal goes into the SWM, you should use power passing attenuators to get the signal level to where it needs to be.
The STA-R0-09 amplifier is fairly picky about the signals that it will accept. It will give you that red light at -25dBm even though the system may work acceptably well if you have signal levels of -40dBm. If your system is working properly even in cases where there’s rain or snow, you may decide that the blinking red light is not a problem. However, be aware that you might run into random issues and it’s always best to stay within spec.
If you have any other questions about commercial installs or need parts, shop at Solid Signal, call 888-233-7563, or fill out the form below.
The post How can you fix a blinking red light on a DIRECTV amplifier? appeared first on The Solid Signal Blog.
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The amp itself is dead simple to use. Connect it up and in most cases you will see six green lights indicating that the amp has enough signal to work properly. However, if you’re reading this article you are probably seeing at least one red light. Here’s what you need to know.
What the lights mean
The leftmost light is the power light. All it’s telling you is whether or not it’s supplying power to the OUT 29V port. Personally I don’t recommend trying to supply power to another device through that port. I think it’s best to power everything individually. So that light should be green all the time.
The other six lights show the signal level coming into the amplifier itself. Here’s a quick explanation of what it means, and it’s also printed right on the amp itself.
| Light Color | What it means |
|---|---|
| GREEN | Signal is between -24 and +1dBm. That’s what you want. |
| SOLID RED | Signal is over +1dBm. That’s too hot. |
| BLINKING RED | Signal is less than -24dBm. That’s not enough signal. |
What can you do if there’s a blinking red light?
The blinking red light means either no signal or low signal on the input port. The input signal must be between -24dBm and +1dBm. If it’s not, there are two possibilities, and there’s a way to fix both.
No signal
If there’s no signal, that can mean several things. If you are using a Reverse Band 5 Legacy LNB, you need to be supplying power using a polarity locker. Lines 5 and 6 need to be powered directly, unlike lines 1-4 which can get power from only a single cable. If you are using a polarity locker within 50 feet of the dish, make sure that it’s working properly and check the voltage at the dish. You should see 18V or more.
It’s also possible that there’s a break in the line or a bad connector leading to low signal. Test the signal using an AIM meter to see if the signal is low or completely gone. You may need to reconnectorize or change out a cable.
Low signal
If the signal level is too low to use, you’ll need to move the amplifier closer to the dish or add a second amplifier. As a general rule of thumb, measure the signal level at the dish and assume you’ll lose 6dB per 100 feet. So, for example, if the output from the dish is at -20, you know you need the amplifier to be less than about 80 feet from the dish. You can use RG11 if you have runs of 100 feet or more but I don’t recommend it for shorter runs.
Fixing issues after the amplifier
The STA amplifier is designed to offer a gain-controlled signal level of 0dBm. The input window for the SWM multiswitch is -25 to -45dBm. You can turn the signal level down to -10dBm by using the adjustment knobs on the front. If you’re still too hot at the point where the signal goes into the SWM, you should use power passing attenuators to get the signal level to where it needs to be.
Should you even worry about a flashing light?
The STA-R0-09 amplifier is fairly picky about the signals that it will accept. It will give you that red light at -25dBm even though the system may work acceptably well if you have signal levels of -40dBm. If your system is working properly even in cases where there’s rain or snow, you may decide that the blinking red light is not a problem. However, be aware that you might run into random issues and it’s always best to stay within spec.
If you have any other questions about commercial installs or need parts, shop at Solid Signal, call 888-233-7563, or fill out the form below.
The post How can you fix a blinking red light on a DIRECTV amplifier? appeared first on The Solid Signal Blog.
Continue reading...
