VIP612 LNB Drift errors

alkmunro

Member
Original poster
Dec 5, 2008
8
0
I have 2 HD TV's and recently got 2 VIP612's from Dish. They came out installed and within a day we were having problems with the picture cutting in and out. So now we have had 5 different technicians come out and try and fix this issue.

1st guy installed the new receivers
2nd guy installs a new LNB
3rd guy(s) installs a new dish, new LNB and changes out all the cabling as we found out the cables were bad.
4th guy changes out the LNB again because the 2 previous guys added the wrong LNB.
5th comes out and changes LNB again. (this was today)

This is from my bedroom Receiver
Status: Check Details for LNB
Device DPP44 Dual
Satellite 129 110 and 119
Orbital 14 15 16 21
110 73 71 72 79
119 75 84 79 39
129 0 47 56 57

This is from my living room receiver
Status: Check Details for LNB
Device DPP44 Dual
Satellite 129 110 and 119
Orbital 14 15 16 21
110 70 71 71 80
119 78 82 78 85
129 0 43 60 57

Why is the Status not staying at Good...why does the LNB keeping going out and why can't the techs fix it. I've not even had these 2 receivers a month and have had so much trouble it's getting annoying.

I had a dual receiver because we had a regular tv in the bedroom. But when we got our new tv which is now HD...we upgrade the receivers from 1 dual to 2 separate receivers..and every since the install of them..we have nothing but problems with the signal loss, picture and sound cutting in and out.

I'm now waiting to see what happens as the evening progresses.

Any suggestions, thoughts would be truly appreciated.
 
I don't see any drift here.

If you like get better understanding about the topic, try Search for "LNB drift" - we have a few threads with all info what you couldn't find anywhere.
 
You say you see "no drift" Then why will my picture not stay? Why does it keep cutting in and out? pixlating?

And it's mostly on the HD channels...not the regular channels.

I have a total of 4 receivers in my house 2 HD and 2 standard. My Standards have no issue but the HD's are about worthless when trying to watch an HD channel.

I've searched your "LNB Drift" and haven't found anything useful.. sorry if I sound mean..but I'm really annoyed I paid $75 to upgrade and to have problems from the day it installed isn't making me real happy or my husband.

Why won't the "status" stay Good?
 
Post screenshots - one for main test screen, other for Details.

Sorry, I've been posted in almost ALL threads about "LNB drift" and can't accept your excuse. There are official document, technical tidbits and more.
 
I can't find anything that will help me in the other posts that will fix my problem. I've been searching for the last 30 minutes. Unless you can provide me a link to something useful then please do so.

These shots are from the living room tv.

If I honestly don't have an LNB Drift..why does the picture cut in out on certain HD channels?
 

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Living Room Shots

Here are the screen shots from the bedroom.
 

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Yep I know. So if there really isn't a "true" drift to be causing my problems. Then what is causing the problem.
 
I arrowed down and snap a picture of everything. I just checked it and the photos show everything I can see. It won't let me advance up any further.

Forgot to mention they changed the LNB again today...I've done a restart of the receive to see if that help reset the receivers but that's still not helping the picture. It still cuts in and out.
 
Last edited:
Looks like Dish created new bug after adding the STBLite diag data :(, as usual for them.
Well I could suggest some of those Value# at bottom could be the drift value, but nobody know for sure.
 
Does that mean there isn't much to do at this point? We have another person coming out tomorrow to try and fix the problem. They are sending a Senior Installer. The guy I talked to see they might uninstall everything and reinstall it.
 
For sure the drift is a LNBF problem ...

Ask them connect other model [622/722] what can show the drift ( which sat, what value, etc).
That other box can be not activated (!).
 
P.Smith, Does it matter which sat is connected to input #1 on the DP switch? Seems like I read recently that 119 should go to input #1.
Dan
 
Actually it was Dish advise - I can understand that as if no switch matrix built, then by default Input#1 connected to outputs and the receiver will lock to main sat and DL current SW without problem.
 
Sort of a tradition, really - I know of no technical reason requiring it - but most times you'll see 119 on switch input 1, 110 on input 2, with whatever else you have on the remaining inputs.
 
Ther are reasons

Sort of a tradition, really - I know of no technical reason requiring it - but most times you'll see 119 on switch input 1, 110 on input 2, with whatever else you have on the remaining inputs.

As an engineer I concur - there are technical reasons:
- by powering the switch all outputs (if not marked differently !) connected to Input port#1
- many (all ?) receivers with factory software cannot control switches on first run ( no NVRAM content created )
- all receivers with factory software required to download current software first, then you should proceed to switch test screen
- the download required current software into your receiver with factory software, you must have a lock to main sat with home transponder - usually 119W tp19.

If I'll dig my past of installer's habits I could find more reasons. ;)
 
yep, the passthrough of port 1 and software spools from "home" sat/tp was the main reason I could think of.
 

upgrades to prog.

Hope Charlie doesn't steal this idea!!

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