transfer moves from hopper 3 to thumb drive

[Richard_E]

Is it possible to copy or transfer a movie from a Hopper 3 to a thumb drive and then to a computer to burn to a DVD?
I would like to copy not transfer if possible.

 

[Peter Parker]

Is it possible to copy or transfer a movie from a Hopper 3 to a thumb drive and then to a computer to burn to a DVD?
I would like to copy not transfer if possible.

I think that the format is entirely different

 

[Bobby]

Is it possible to copy or transfer a movie from a Hopper 3 to a thumb drive and then to a computer to burn to a DVD?
I would like to copy not transfer if possible.

All programming on the Hopper3 are encrypted. It won’t transfer and play on a computer or DVD.

 

[KAB]

IOW, NO!

 

[Richard_E]

I knew that no would be the answer, But thought I would ask.

 

[HipKat]

Is it possible to copy or transfer a movie from a Hopper 3 to a thumb drive and then to a computer to burn to a DVD?
I would like to copy not transfer if possible.

I'm sure there are some copywrite laws involved in there, somewhere

 

[KAB]

I'm sure there are some copywrite laws involved in there, somewhere

Yeh, a little thing called DRM (digital rights management).

 

[Jay50]

It is definitely possible, but the question is whether it is worth it because you will need a fair amount of software and hardware. You need to capture the video from either the component output from the Hopper (3 video + 2 audio cables) or via HDMI. You need a capture device and a common one is sold by Hauppauge.com. They have an external device and an internal card for a desktop, but either one works well. The video quality from HDMI will be slightly better and that requires fewer cables. In order to capture HDMI, you need to simultaneously send the signal to a TV and that requires an HDMI splitter, and you can purchase those from Amazon. The output from the Hopper would go to the input to the splitter and from there an HDMI cable would go to the TV and another to the capture device. Hauppauge's capture software comes with the capture device and is regularly updated. It lets you select the title and time-length of your recording plus its destination and bit rate (11,000 megabits/second works fine - the higher the bit rate, the better the quality, the larger the video file if your computer and its video card are fast enough). For Windows, you need at least an I-7 CPU and 16 GB of RAM and lots of hard drive space. Once you've captured your video, you will want to view it and edit it. From there, its mostly software. I use Cyberlink PowerDirector to do the editing and that ain't cheap. It will make the video file type that you desire and that file would then either need to saved as a data file on a disc or authored to a DVD or Blu-ray. Its ability to make DVDs and Blu-rays is too complicated for me and I therefore use Corel's VideoStudio for that, which is not as expensive as PowerDirector. However, I have had problems with VideoStudio because their DVD/Blu-ray source code came from ULead and ULead wrote it for Windows 95 or 98. It runs well in Windows 7 but I have had persistent crashes with Windows 10 when saving a project and then reopening it. Corel has consistently ignored me over this. Over the years, Corel has never updated the DVD and Blu-ray authoring software, which remains quirky. A work-around with Windows 10 (I haven't "upgraded" to Windows 11) is to run VideoStudio in Windows 7 compatibility mode, but that triples the time it takes to make a DVD or Blu-ray. Also, Corel's Blu-ray module costs extra, but it's not expensive ($15 or so). VideoStudio can also do editing, but I have not used it for that. Of course, you will need a DVD or Blu-ray writer and the appropriate media. If you plan to print on the disc, you will printable discs and an inkjet printer that is designed to do that, such as the Canon TS9520. So, like I said, it can be done, but the question is whether it's worth it to you.

 

[Strega]

I was under the impression that if you try to split HDMI using a “legit” (HDCP-compliant) source and a “legit” (HDCP-compliant) splitter, that you would end up with a sub-HD output. (720p or even 480p). Is that true?

 

[SandFarmer]

I was under the impression that if you try to split HDMI using a “legit” (HDCP-compliant) source and a “legit” (HDCP-compliant) splitter, that you would end up with a sub-HD output. (720p or even 480p). Is that true?

I'm using two Orei UHDS-102's (nothing special as far as their product line):
1x2 HDMI Splitter 18G
18Gbps
4K 60Hz, YUV 4:4:4
to share one of my two H3's and a FireTV 4K MAX Gen2 to two Samsung TVs. Of which Samsungs are a pain to plug things into. All kinds of EDID issues. This little, and it is little, bugger fixes that. You can use either the TV on Input 1 or the units own EDID. No more input problems. Clean, Clear High Rez beauty and the audio that goes with it. It's even cleaned up the H3 signal.

The gear is in the Core Equipment Room in the basement with 4 - 35' Cabernet HDMI Cables running to the two TVs above. No problems having one set on at a time. Only if they watch two different things at the same time. The TVs are on opposite sides of the core and can be heard. When on the same program the audio sync is zero up giving us a 65" in the Living Room and a 40" in the Kitchen that mesh perfectly. Even with their respective surround sound systems running concurrently.

So with all that I would imagine it should work as the perfect interface to a capture device. And their Audio Splitter worked great between my Samsung 65" 4K microLED and 2K ex-Pionner AVR from an AppleTV-4K. Of which, both units won't allow any manipulation of the HDMI signal. No Prob. Now I have an 8K Yamaha ATMOS AVR.

Sent from my S61Pro using Tapatalk

 

[Jim5506]

I was under the impression that if you try to split HDMI using a “legit” (HDCP-compliant) source and a “legit” (HDCP-compliant) splitter, that you would end up with a sub-HD output. (720p or even 480p). Is that true?

I have a 1080i projector and a 720p Samsung with my H3 set to output 1080i, the TV handles the downrez to 720 and the projector uses the 1080i from my Monoprice HDMI splitter. IMHO the TV always handles the signal it is sent by the receiver or other device and displays the image the best it can. The splitter has no "knowledge" of what's being passed through to both outputs.

 

[Strega]

Based on reading some Q&A on these two splitters on Amazon, I think they are working for you because both devices are TVs – ie: valid destinations for a high def video stream as defined by HDCP rules. From the Q&A section on one of them:

“Q: Does this splitter strip hdcp so that you can record console gameplay, etc.?
A: It does not strip hdcp”

I get the impression that in most cases, you’re more likely to get a good result from the component outputs for recording.