Switching Question

[armadillo_115]

Switches scare me... I guess from all the 'switches' I got growing up.

At this time both systems are separate.
Dish 1: I hope to change the 55w lnbf to a dual output and add a side=mount dual output lnbf for 58w.
Receiver 1 will then be able to switch between 55w and 58w ONLY. Receiver 1 will NOT connect to Dish 2. A simple 22khz switch here?

Dish 2: Already has a CK1S C/KU LNBF. I want to be able to switch between the C, Ku, 58w, and 55w on Receiver 2. A 4x1 diseqc switch here?
*** Switches will be located at the dishes rather than what my drawing suggests.

This setup will add 58w to receiver 1. AND... It will give us 55w,58w on receiver 2 and not have to drive the dish east of 87w. I can then pick up a little more of the western arc.
Later, I may change the CK1S C/KU back to the original C1W-PLL. I would add a stationary ku dish for 125w. (That's the only Ku bird e watch)

Thanks in advance!

Pardon my poor drawing abilities.

 

[Magic Static]

I might do it this way and see if it meets your needs.

 

[Magic Static]

Second thought, since you want everything out at the dishes you would need to make an enclosure for the VBox. But most people want it inside where they can plug it in and use the remote if needed. So put the VBox before the 1x4 switch. Ideally the DiSEqC motor control should be located at the dish. Shorter control cable runs reduce problems with the controller.

 

[ancient]

I will just say that if you even think you might someday want to replace one or both of your receivers with a computer backend system (running Tvheadend or similar software), I would avoid tone switches. For some reason I've never been able to get them to work properly with Tvheadend, whereas 4x1 DiSEqC switches work great. Only caveat is that I don't think you can connect the output of one DiSEqC switch to the input of another and have it work, so you may be forced to use a tone switch if you have to do that kind of hookup, and hope it works okay.

 

[Magic Static]

Only caveat is that I don't think you can connect the output of one DiSEqC switch to the input of another and have it work, so you may be forced to use a tone switch if you have to do that kind of hookup, and hope it works okay.

You can cascade DiSEqC switches of different protocols but not two of the same. You can stack 1x4 DiSEqC 1.0 on 1x8 DiSEqC 1.1 on 22khz or different combinations. Power passing is the big concern when stacking switches.

 

[armadillo_115]

Second thought, since you want everything out at the dishes you would need to make an enclosure for the VBox. But most people want it inside where they can plug it in and use the remote if needed. So put the VBox before the 1x4 switch. Ideally the DiSEqC motor control should be located at the dish. Shorter control cable runs reduce problems with the controller.

'1x4' switch = 4x1 Diseqc switch?

Yes, the VBox will have to be in the house near the receiver. No electricity near the dishes. With the VBox at the receiver, the 22khz switch can still be used before the CK1S,yes?

It occurred to me that this is a good time to route all cables from the house to the stationary dish on the left. (Beside the driveway) And install both 1x4 switches there. Then only 1 coax and motor cable needs to cross to the motorized dish and the 22kz switch. I can bury the cables between the dishes easy enough. To date, I have separate cables above ground to each dish... PITA to mow the yard.

This will increase my longest coax and motor cable to approx 250 ft long though.

* Ancient, I don't plan to ever run a computer backend system.But that's good to plan ahead.

Thanks guys!

 

[KE4EST]

'1x4' switch = 4x1 Diseqc switch?

Yes.
If you are not wanting dish two on receiver one. Then I would just get 2 DiSEqC switches and put one at dish 1 and the other at dish 2 and eliminate that 22kHz switch.

 

[Magic Static]

Yes.
If you are not wanting dish two on receiver one. Then I would just get 2 DiSEqC switches and put one at dish 1 and the other at dish 2 and eliminate that 22kHz switch.

I left the 22khz in the setup because it was already there and he plans to add 125W ku dish later. So he would still have an open port on the 4x1 switch.
Also the tone switch enables him to use a 5150/10750 dual L.O. setting for the C/Ku combo LNBF. But that is the way I would go and not the only way for sure.

 

[KE4EST]

Well I thought about the future 125W add-on and started to recommend an 8X1 at dish 2. Then re-read where he said if he did the 125W he would go back to a C1WPLL.
Personally I think adding a 22kHz switch after the DiSEqC just further complicates things. Wanna future proof it, go 8X1.

 

[armadillo_115]

Well I thought about the future 125W add-on and started to recommend an 8X1 at dish 2. Then re-read where he said if he did the 125W he would go back to a C1WPLL.
Personally I think adding a 22kHz switch after the DiSEqC just further complicates things. Wanna future proof it, go 8X1.

Correct, KE4EST. If/when I set up a ku dish dedicated to 125, I will go back to a C1WPLL on the bud. A little stronger SQ on the C Band. The CK1S will remain until then.

So I'll need to get: (2) dual C lnbfs, (2) 4x1 switches, (2) 50ft coax, and some way to add 50 ft to the motor cable. Oh, and a weatherproof junction box.
Thanks guys!

Anyone know where I can borrow a cable stretcher?

 

[armadillo_115]

I just ordered 2 C2-PLL's and 2 4x1 Diseqc switches from Titanium Satellite.

A local company is making me up 150ft and 80ft of RG6 solid copper core coax today. The original coax to the motorized bud is too short to route the way I want it to run. The original coax was copper clad core. I didn't want copper clad on that dish...since it will now total 255ft long. With a grounding block and 4x1 switch to further reduce signal/voltage.

So now I need to rig up some type of weatherproof box to house both switches at dish 1.

Question: Is there any problem with mounting both 4x1 switches in the same enclosure?

I have until next mowing season to figure out how to extend the motor cable.

 

[ancient]

Question: Is there any problem with mounting both 4x1 switches in the same enclosure?

I have until next mowing season to figure out how to extend the motor cable.

Only thing I would say about two switches in the same enclosure at that distance is either don't let them touch each other at all (put a piece of plastic between them if you have to) or use a short piece of wire to bond the shells of them together. My thinking is that an intermittent connection between the two could potentially cause unforeseen electrical interference issues. Maybe it would happen and maybe it wouldn't, but still, personally I'd rather see the ground connection between the two perfect or nonexistent, not something in between.

For extending a cable, if it is outdoors I would solder each splice (or you could use inline crimp-type connectors), then use heat-shrink tubing over the splices (don't forget to slide the heat-shrink tubing on before soldering the splice!), then coat all the splices and exposed wires with 100% silicone caulk and let that cure for a day or two, then finally wrap the entire splice with emergency repair tape (the stuff you use to repair plumbing or hose leaks, the thick black rubber stuff that you stretch before applying seems to be the best). The solder holds the splices together, the heat shrink is for insulation, the silicone rubber is for additional insulation and waterproofing, and the emergency repair tape is for additional waterproofing.

 

[Magic Static]

The only problem I have putting the switches in the same enclosure is remembering which coax goes where


But on the other hand I have had a pair of those Pansat switches out in the weather for years. With proper coax sealing of course.

 

[danristheman]

Very nice Magic That is nice how you have that setup.

 

[armadillo_115]

Update: LNB's and Switches from Titanium Satellite arrived promptly... But other plans prevented me from working on the dishes much this weekend. Anyway, I temporarily mounted the 58W lnb to the side to start testing today. I got (some) signal by cocking the lnb toward the center. I'm assuming that I will need to notch out the 55W scaler so that the 58W can be placed closer to center(?) Is a scaler necessary on the 58W lnb?

IIRC the only FTA lockable was Bethel TV, NHK mux, and CCTV mux. Some other transponders scanned in but wouldn't lock.
Expecting rain tomorrow so not sure when I will get back to experimenting. I threw a high-tech garbage bag over the lnb's and called it a day.

Here's a couple of pics:


Yes, I know it needs to be much more stable. This was just to test the possible spacing.

 

[KE4EST]

Where is the picture of the high tech trash bag?

 

[armadillo_115]

Where is the picture of the high tech trash bag?

The NSA deleted the pic due to unconfirmed military applications for that bag.

 

[KE4EST]

The NSA deleted the pic due to unconfirmed military applications for that bag.

I see.

 

[RimaNTSS]

Folks! I just wonder why multi-tuner receivers are not so popular your side of the pond?! At home I have 2 receivers and which of them has 3 satellite tuners and 1 terrestrial tuner. So, tuners can be to different antennas and alow simultaneous watching, recording, streaming.

 

[armadillo_115]

Folks! I just wonder why multi-tuner receivers are not so popular your side of the pond?! At home I have 2 receivers and which of them has 3 satellite tuners and 1 terrestrial tuner. So, tuners can be to different antennas and alow simultaneous watching, recording, streaming.

Well, for one thing... It's hard enough to find a good SINGLE tuner for North American purposes.