I recently got a few LNB Ku Linear and my suggestion is that they should be build flat top as those chaparral, the reason is that is pretty hard to get the angle when LNBs are curved at top is very difficult to get the correct skew.
Suggestion to LNB Ku Linear builders (please make them flat at top)
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Those marks only works when you don't need to turn if too much (correct me if I'm wrong) for example in my case I'm looking for 30W so my skew is +73.35° that means that I need something more than those marks in order to get that skew.
That would pose a problem. I'd add my own marks at (90°) 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock then more marks between those
for 45°. then between again for 67.5° and 22.5°. Then one could place the 67.5° mark at the 6-7° mark on the holder. A flat would make it simpler, but Ive never encountered a design engineer that had ease of installation or servicing as a priority.. (3.5 hours to replace a light bulb in the dashboard of my car, YIKES!)
for 45°. then between again for 67.5° and 22.5°. Then one could place the 67.5° mark at the 6-7° mark on the holder. A flat would make it simpler, but Ive never encountered a design engineer that had ease of installation or servicing as a priority.. (3.5 hours to replace a light bulb in the dashboard of my car, YIKES!)
I know that's why I'm suggesting a flat top for Ku Linear because Ku circular doesn't needs it so those ones could be curved but the other ones I think at least should have a flat part for easy skew calculations.
Just my $0.02
Just my $0.02
My penny and a half: FaT Air - Gee I hope that is not a current dish picture! Way too early for the worthless white crap.
RT.
RT.
serious skew.
I have never seen a setup with more than 50 degrees.
The sat would be below the horizon.
I have never seen a setup with more than 50 degrees.
The sat would be below the horizon.
I personally don't understand the need to change the design at all. They have a mark on top to indicate top (vertical point). I don't know what Chap LNB you are talking about think you are referring to those that have only 1 polarity and use a polarotor device to go from H to V.
On the GEOSATpro SL1 and SL2 LNBFs we have designed the case to have a 0 degree centering line molded into the case along the throat of the LNBF.
The skew setting is more of an approximation than an exact setting due to the true probe setting in the LNBF, plumb of the mast, reflector and LNBF support mechanical variances. Get the setting within 5 or 10 degrees then optimize on the actual transponders.
Interesting suggestion, but not sure that it would be used often. Can barely get customers to use the accurate elevation scale that is labeled, stamped and marked in 2 degree increments into the rear bracket of the GEOSATpro 90cm dish!
We might consider adding 45 and 90 degree with positive / negative markings. More markings than that would probably confuse customers since the skew scales are typically on the LNBF clamp.
The skew setting is more of an approximation than an exact setting due to the true probe setting in the LNBF, plumb of the mast, reflector and LNBF support mechanical variances. Get the setting within 5 or 10 degrees then optimize on the actual transponders.
Interesting suggestion, but not sure that it would be used often. Can barely get customers to use the accurate elevation scale that is labeled, stamped and marked in 2 degree increments into the rear bracket of the GEOSATpro 90cm dish!
We might consider adding 45 and 90 degree with positive / negative markings. More markings than that would probably confuse customers since the skew scales are typically on the LNBF clamp.
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That would be great to add that + and -
To me with a flat surface would be more than enough and appreciated, I hope more builders listen the users opinions.
By the way in were I'm testing that satellite (30W) which is the most skewed one but not the only one that needs a lot of angle.
To me the skew is almost a problem because the most popular satellites here they use a lot of skew.
To me with a flat surface would be more than enough and appreciated, I hope more builders listen the users opinions.
By the way in were I'm testing that satellite (30W) which is the most skewed one but not the only one that needs a lot of angle.
To me the skew is almost a problem because the most popular satellites here they use a lot of skew.
On my fixed dishes, I usually fine-tune skew with a receiver and monitor out at the dish site. You can often get a few extra Q points that way.
Motorized setups, of course, use '0' skew.
Motorized setups, of course, use '0' skew.
I bad luck with motorized systems on high angled dishes that point to the higher satellite. But going back to the skew, using receiver to me has its pros and cons.
Pros - Better Quality / Level
Bad - Needs more time if you don't have a receiver on front or pretty close to your dish or more expensive if you want to use a signal device.
Pros - Better Quality / Level
Bad - Needs more time if you don't have a receiver on front or pretty close to your dish or more expensive if you want to use a signal device.
I just re-aimed for that sat yesterday,to play with my openbox s10
I already had the mounting pole marked with a magic marker and the angle written down on the back of the dish.
Wireless headphones and coolsat beep to get the final twist of lnb.
Well, let's address the subject of this thread directly...
"KU LNBs, please make them flat on top" (I paraphrased)
1. the most popular solution is to motorize, so flat isn't helpful
2. next most popular is to use a dish with skew, so again flat isn't useful
3. Brian pointed out that the GeoSatPro LNBFs have a square head, so those solve the problem
And the C + Ku band LNBFs are a hodge-podge of bumps 'n brackets.
So are the C-band only models.
You need a cheat sheet to even know which way is up on those, much less how far to twist 'em.
Since the world isn't going to cooperate, maybe it would be worth thinking about how best to use what we've got.
1. the extra lines drawn on your LNBF at 22°, 45°, 67°, and 90° (suggested above) is a great idea, and easy to implement
2. using some brands of plastic LNB brackets (holders) with markings on them may help
3. (this is my favorite)
- rotate the Ku LNBF to zero (should be easy to see)
- get a conduit hanger bracket
- clamp onto the LNBF rear
- set an inclinometer on the bracket
- move both so the inclinometer reads zero
- tighten the bracket
- now, twist the LNB + bracket + inclinometer to the desired skew
- remove bracket, you're done. - :up
This will work on those pesky dual-band LNBFs too.
Is there any down-side?
Well, as mentioned above, (especially on the dual band) knowing when the probes inside the LNBF are horizontal (or vertical) may be unclear.
In which case, you take off the cover and look down the throat!
"KU LNBs, please make them flat on top" (I paraphrased)
1. the most popular solution is to motorize, so flat isn't helpful
2. next most popular is to use a dish with skew, so again flat isn't useful
3. Brian pointed out that the GeoSatPro LNBFs have a square head, so those solve the problem
And the C + Ku band LNBFs are a hodge-podge of bumps 'n brackets.
So are the C-band only models.
You need a cheat sheet to even know which way is up on those, much less how far to twist 'em.
Since the world isn't going to cooperate, maybe it would be worth thinking about how best to use what we've got.
1. the extra lines drawn on your LNBF at 22°, 45°, 67°, and 90° (suggested above) is a great idea, and easy to implement
2. using some brands of plastic LNB brackets (holders) with markings on them may help
3. (this is my favorite)
- rotate the Ku LNBF to zero (should be easy to see)
- get a conduit hanger bracket
- clamp onto the LNBF rear
- set an inclinometer on the bracket
- move both so the inclinometer reads zero
- tighten the bracket
- now, twist the LNB + bracket + inclinometer to the desired skew
- remove bracket, you're done. - :up
This will work on those pesky dual-band LNBFs too.
Is there any down-side?
Well, as mentioned above, (especially on the dual band) knowing when the probes inside the LNBF are horizontal (or vertical) may be unclear.
In which case, you take off the cover and look down the throat!
Anole said:
Not sure what you referenced.
GEOSATpro KU LNBFs do have the 0 degree centering line molded into the top of the case, but not a square head.
In post #10 above, is a picture of the dual output SatAV LNBF.
It appears to be flat on top, back by the connectors.
I only have the original single-output models, which are sort of round, from end to end.
Pictures of both on this SatAV page.
edit:
My point was, if the SatAV dual-output LNBF actually is flat on top, then the OP could purchase those and be happy. - :up
Dual outputs is an extra bonus.
It appears to be flat on top, back by the connectors.
I only have the original single-output models, which are sort of round, from end to end.
Pictures of both on this SatAV page.
edit:
My point was, if the SatAV dual-output LNBF actually is flat on top, then the OP could purchase those and be happy. - :up
Dual outputs is an extra bonus.
Yeah, that's what I'm talking about, GEOSATpro SL2 has flat top so it can be easily used for us that need a lot of skew.
The only thing missing on your LNB is that is not Universal, just Standard Linear KU.
The only thing missing on your LNB is that is not Universal, just Standard Linear KU.
We used to import an Universal version of the SL1 for North America market, but it sold about as good as Creamsicles in Antarctica.... Currently the Universal UL1 verion is OEM for European distribution only.
BTW.... The SL1 also has a flat horizontal 90 degree surface on the bottom.
Sorry, I didn't put two and two together on the observation. My bad! Thank you Anole!
Both the SL2 and the SL1 have flat horizontal surfaces at 90 degrees to the 0 degree line.
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