Having a hard time setting SWM dishes with a Birdog 4, always get reds on 103 and 99. Had a good installer try, same kind of Birdog, still reds. What are we doing worng?
Setting SWM dishes
- Thread starter ChicotFisher
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 31
- Views 12K
- Status
First, is the mast plumb? This is critical. Second, are you aiming at 101, then dialing in the other satellites?
If you are using the SWM LNB to point the dish you will fight all day long to get it aimed. Use the SL3 or SL5 lnb to aim, then change it out for your SWM lnb.
What's the difference between aiming a swm sl3 or sl5 lnb and an sl3 or sl5 non swm?
Totally different in the way the two operate. The older SL3/5 LNB's are much easier to point the dish with.
I know they operate differently, but how is the process of aiming them different?
Technically there is no difference in the way they are aimed. It's just far easier to do it with the older style LNB's
They just will not show peak like the legacy lnb's. It's due to the fact that you have to have much more power to the LNB. The SWM has to go into a test mode to aim. It's just far easier and quicker to use the legacy LNB's.
I often use the legacy LNB to aim the dish, then just change it out and put in the SWM LNB. Directv does not like this procedure but it works very well. Just don't do a lot of bumping the dish while changing the LNB. My signal strengths using the swap out method often gets me just as good or better signal levels than doing the alignment using the SWM LNB. I have older Birddog meters that do not power the SWM LNB and setting up to align the dish using a SWM and 2 port switch takes a bit longer than just doing a quick change out after aligning with legacy.
Part of the reason you may be getting the red X is the reflector may be bent, or somehow out of alignment and the full signal is not being reflected to the LNB. If you can get another dish, align it and see if the red X goes away.
Part of the reason you may be getting the red X is the reflector may be bent, or somehow out of alignment and the full signal is not being reflected to the LNB. If you can get another dish, align it and see if the red X goes away.
I think the biggest reason why D* didn't like the Legacy/SWM alignment swap was due to the way the mounting holes aligned (or didn't align). Now that they've gone with the pressure clamps, I see no problem with using your method
Two ways to do it with a Birdog
1) Already mentioned which is using a non swm lnb and swapping it out.
This is the way I use every day.
2) You can use a SWM LNB if you have a the 101swm in your meter, power it up with the power inserter, and hook the meter up to to the non power passing (or white) port.
Do not hook it up to the red port or you will fry the meter.
1) Already mentioned which is using a non swm lnb and swapping it out.
This is the way I use every day.
2) You can use a SWM LNB if you have a the 101swm in your meter, power it up with the power inserter, and hook the meter up to to the non power passing (or white) port.
Do not hook it up to the red port or you will fry the meter.
Either method will work. I'm inclined to agree with Rauol in that mast may not be plumb. Some will use a torpedo level to do so-I prefer a post level that can be viewed in vertical and horizontal planes simultaneously. Not following established procedure for dithering will result in less than optimum dish settings. Signal level meters will read the same values over a fairly wide window of placement. Dish has to be centered in the window
I've seen techs use the bubble level in the mast to plumb it. That is the worst method. I also use a post level. You can rubber band it to the mast to keep your hands free making adjustments a lot easier.
The bubble level in the mast is not that bad if you pay attention and now how to properly use it.
I have used both and find no difference.
You just need to make sure the bubble part is not cocked funny in the gray plastic.
This can be achieved by pulling it out and shaking it a little to see if it moves freely in the gray part.
When setting it back in, make sure it is flush and weld in the mast is not pushing against one of the tabs.
If you do this, it is every bit as good as a post level.
Done thousands using this method and have never once had an issue and if they were total crap like some try and claim direct tv would stop using them (surprised they have not just to save money).
Like any tool, you just have to know how to use it to have it work right.
I have used both and find no difference.
You just need to make sure the bubble part is not cocked funny in the gray plastic.
This can be achieved by pulling it out and shaking it a little to see if it moves freely in the gray part.
When setting it back in, make sure it is flush and weld in the mast is not pushing against one of the tabs.
If you do this, it is every bit as good as a post level.
Done thousands using this method and have never once had an issue and if they were total crap like some try and claim direct tv would stop using them (surprised they have not just to save money).
Like any tool, you just have to know how to use it to have it work right.
Every situation is different. I prefer not to position myself high enough on the ladder to view the bubble but then I only want just slightly more than one rung above the roof line.. The mast isn't secure at the point and you have nothing to grab if you lose your balance. The post level or the torpedo are safer methods IMO. Getting it plumb is the needed end result. Whatever works for ya.
I am 1 rung slightly above the roof too.
I just don't have an issue seeing over the mast from that point and still being secure.
But everyone has a different comfort level.
For instance I will only walk on 10/12 roofs and not all of them (depending on height of roof).
We have a tech or 2 that will do 12/12
Some won't even get on the roof
I make it point never to push anyone out their comfort level as it is a recipe for disaster.
I just don't have an issue seeing over the mast from that point and still being secure.
But everyone has a different comfort level.
For instance I will only walk on 10/12 roofs and not all of them (depending on height of roof).
We have a tech or 2 that will do 12/12
Some won't even get on the roof
I make it point never to push anyone out their comfort level as it is a recipe for disaster.
- Status
