Right now I hate Directv. Error code 775

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gflande1

Active SatelliteGuys Member
Original poster
Jul 15, 2012
23
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York PA
Hr34 and H24 installed approx 4 months ago. Performance upto this point has been ok. not as good as my old Dish 722.

Today, I received an error stating "Problem communicating with dish. Press select on more info (775)"

More info basically states to check connections and power. I also reset the HR34 with no success.

Called Directv, the tech walked me through checking the power inserter. He had me disconnect the two coax and touch the copper ends, then reconnect. he the had me unplug power inserter for 30 seconds, plug back in, then reset box. No success. he then said they would have to send a tech, hopefully on Monday, likely Wednesday.

called local Directv dealer and he sold me power inserter. brought home and swapped. reset hr34, no success. followed steps above, still no success. called directv, after 20 min hold, was bluntly told I would have to wait for tech.

any ideas? was looking forward to olympic basketball.
 
There are some things you can check that may help solve your problem.

1. Do you only have an HR24 and HR34? If so, this gives us an idea of what kind of a SWM setup you have. (I will assume so for right now.)

2. Do both receivers give you the same message? If so, your problem is quite probably in your SWM LNB. This usually means no power to the SWM head, a bad SWM LNB or bad wiring to your SWM LNB.

3. How comfortable are you with tracing the wiring from your dish to your various locations? One of the things that would be nice to know is if the cable from whatever line is supplying the power is correctly connected to the red insert connection on your splitter. It would also be nice to know if all unused ports are terminated with small metal caps. It would also be nice to know if the line that supplies the power to your dish is over 100 feet long.

4. You need to check each of the connections and make sure they are wrench tight. If any can be turned by hand they are not tight enough. This is especially critical for the connection to the dish which can get moisture in it that would cause problems.

5. Make sure that you have the power inserter connected correctly. The to IRD side goes to your receiver.

6. Unplug each of the receivers and your Power Inserter. Plug in the power inserter and wait about 2 minutes. Next plug in your HR34 and wait until it comes up completely. Finally, plug in your HR24 and wait until it comes up completely.

7. If all this fails, wait for D* Tech.

Granted your installer should have taken note of all these things, but once in a while they get distracted and can make a mistake.
 
There are some things you can check that may help solve your problem.

1. Do you only have an HR24 and HR34? If so, this gives us an idea of what kind of a SWM setup you have. (I will assume so for right now.)

2. Do both receivers give you the same message? If so, your problem is quite probably in your SWM LNB. This usually means no power to the SWM head, a bad SWM LNB or bad wiring to your SWM LNB.

3. How comfortable are you with tracing the wiring from your dish to your various locations? One of the things that would be nice to know is if the cable from whatever line is supplying the power is correctly connected to the red insert connection on your splitter. It would also be nice to know if all unused ports are terminated with small metal caps. It would also be nice to know if the line that supplies the power to your dish is over 100 feet long.

4. You need to check each of the connections and make sure they are wrench tight. If any can be turned by hand they are not tight enough. This is especially critical for the connection to the dish which can get moisture in it that would cause problems.

5. Make sure that you have the power inserter connected correctly. The to IRD side goes to your receiver.

6. Unplug each of the receivers and your Power Inserter. Plug in the power inserter and wait about 2 minutes. Next plug in your HR34 and wait until it comes up completely. Finally, plug in your HR24 and wait until it comes up completely.

7. If all this fails, wait for D* Tech.

Granted your installer should have taken note of all these things, but once in a while they get distracted and can make a mistake.

1 &2. Sorry, I was wrong, I have a HR34 and H21. H34 has 775 error, H21 has 771A error code.

3. Here's some photos showing the setup. http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l52/gflande1/Directv/


Basically there is two wires coming from dish mounted in backyard. at the dish end, only one is connected to lnb. other end one goes to splitter, other goes to what appears to be a ground. cable is buried, with no visible change to the ground (nothing was dug up). cable is approx 46 ft long. all connections are wrench tight. don't see a red insert, where would this be?

At outside splitter, one goes to h21 in bedroom, other goes to back of faceplate in family room (hr34). approx 35 feet from splitter to wallplate at HR34. all tight

5. Connections at power inserter appear to be correct, with one exception. Signal to IRD goes to splitter, which feeds hr34 and DECA. all connections tight.

I will try step 6 next.
 
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don't know if this helps, but when I go into satellite dish setup, it states "cannot detect SWM"

by the way, what's the purpose of SWM? can I connect directly from faceplate to HR34?
 
don't know if this helps, but when I go into satellite dish setup, it states "cannot detect SWM"

by the way, what's the purpose of SWM? can I connect directly from faceplate to HR34?

Well, thats a MAJOR step.

The SWM allows you to run everything with only 1 cable coming from the dish.
Use to be you needed one to each side of the recvr for a DVR to record something and watch something else.

Thats only part of what the SWM is for.
 
ok, so I assume connecting directly from splitter wouldn't work. I was hoping to eliminate lnb.
 
You need the power inserter to run the lnb correctly.
 
makes sense. the power outage must have caused whatever problem I'm having. power inserter doesn't seem to be problem. is it possible for lnb to go bad?
 
Out of curiosity, I checked the voltage coming out of the power inserter. both, the new and old one are 20.7 volts (guess that means I didn't need to buy one). I measured it at the LNB and it was 20.6. so voltage is making it out there, so no breaks. I also confirmed the wire coming from the splitter with voltage is connected to red. does this mean bad LNB?
 
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gflande1 said:
Out of curiosity, I checked the voltage coming out of the power inserter. both, the new and old one are 20.7 volts (guess that means I didn't need to buy one). I measured it at the LNB and it was 20.6. so voltage is making it out there, so no breaks. I also confirmed the wire coming from the splitter with voltage is connected to red. does this mean bad LNB?

It could be a bad LNB. Try hooking the line that is running from the dish directly to your power supply and then from there to the 34 or 21. 775 is directv's new 771a code for the 34. Why the changed it is beyond me. By hooking straight from LNB to power inserter to receiver we can by pass the switch and see if we have issues there
 
It could be a bad LNB. Try hooking the line that is running from the dish directly to your power supply and then from there to the 34 or 21. 775 is directv's new 771a code for the 34. Why the changed it is beyond me. By hooking straight from LNB to power inserter to receiver we can by pass the switch and see if we have issues there

sorry, I'm new to this. is the switch the SWiM splitter outside? if so, I connected the coax coming from dish to the powered "red" wire. reset power inserter, then HR34, no change

6db9a4b8.jpg
 
The splitter should be grounded, also it's hard to tell because the picture you posted is so close, but the install looks pretty messy. You should call Directv and tell them about the lack of a ground and have them come out to fix it and then find out what the other issue is. I'm betting on a bad lnb.
 
The splitter should be grounded, also it's hard to tell because the picture you posted is so close, but the install looks pretty messy. You should call Directv and tell them about the lack of a ground and have them come out to fix it and then find out what the other issue is. I'm betting on a bad lnb.

I'm thinking the ground is not necessary in this instance, the splitters can be al;most anywhere in the set up, cant expect to get a separate ground everywhere.

My splitter is inside the house and has no ground to it. that said, the ground spot is so small, I never knew it had one till I saw this picture, mine does not have a green screw and it is a very small set screw, doubt it's even big enough to put a ground on.
 
I'm thinking the ground is not necessary in this instance, the splitters can be al;most anywhere in the set up, cant expect to get a separate ground everywhere.

My splitter is inside the house and has no ground to it. that said, the ground spot is so small, I never knew it had one till I saw this picture, mine does not have a green screw and it is a very small set screw, doubt it's even big enough to put a ground on.

True.
 
gflande1 said:
sorry, I'm new to this. is the switch the SWiM splitter outside? if so, I connected the coax coming from dish to the powered "red" wire. reset power inserter, then HR34, no change

The connector going in to the power pass side is an instant fail on a QC. It's an unapproved connector, as for getting you up and running it sounds like directv is going to have to make it back out. Like mentioned, that install looks pretty nasty just from the 1 shot we see. I'd request it be cleaned up a little.
 
I agree with all the above. Things are just really wrong with the way you are connected. Why the installer used dual cable is curious. It seems to have confused things on your setup. And the first connection should have been your grounding lug not your splitter. What is confusing is that one picture shows the grey wire going to the grounding lug, but another only shows black wires connected to it. How did that change?

Next, do not allow the "to SWM" side of your power supply to get connected to your receiver. While there seems to be some protection circuits in the receiver putting the 21 volts in there can destroy your receiver. Your pictures don't really show how that is connected, but you state that your "to IRD" goes to a splitter. This is OK if the splitter is for inserting a CCK into the coax, but not if the splitter you mention is the one pictured. On Edit: it looks like picture 10 is a CCK, so the splitter you mention may be for this which would be OK.

The "red" insert is the same as the red line you see on the splitter. That red line represents the power connection between the Power Inserter and the SWM LNB. Your "powered" coax line has to connect to this terminal on the splitter.

Again, there are enough issues with what you show in the pictures that it would be best to have someone other than the person who did the install to review and get you running. I'm sure this is a pain, but it needs to be done right so that things will work. I'm surprised that it worked well enough for the original installer to get out the door.
 
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I'm back online. Tech wasn't receiving a signal from the LNB. He replaced that, and still nothing. He replaced both splitters and the ends, and it started working again. Strange I was getting voltage at the LNB. Guess the connection wasn't good enough to allow the signal through. Could the storm/power outage have caused this? or was it a bad connection in the first place that happened to fail during the storm? Either way, I'm happy again.

Thanks for all the inputs.

PS is it appropriate to tip a tech? I wasn't sure, so I didn't (my wife gets on my ass for wanting to tip everyone, so I'm hesitant. Happy wife means, happy life. Right?). Maybe I should have, he made me happy again.
 
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I agree with all the above. Things are just really wrong with the way you are connected. Why the installer used dual cable is curious. It seems to have confused things on your setup. And the first connection should have been your grounding lug not your splitter. What is confusing is that one picture shows the grey wire going to the grounding lug, but another only shows black wires connected to it. How did that change?

Sorry, bad pictures, should have explained what was there. Dual cable was left over from Dish Network install. one was going from LNB to splitter. the other cable was cut off at LNB, with the other terminating at one of the ground lug. Not sure if this was necessary. the other ground lug, with black wires is for my cable Internet.

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