RG6 Quad Shield Coax Gone after 5 years?

[Foxbat]

We had a new set of shingles installed on our roof last week, and I was impressed that the roofers were able to remove and re-install my two dishes without losing the signal levels. Anyway, I went up today to check things out and I noticed that one of my runs of Quad Shielded RG6 coax was looking all cracked. The other two runs of RG6 look okay, but the one was basically dried out and brittle, with some sections that had the aluminum foil shield clearly visible.

I've never experienced anything like this before (well, other than ty-wraps falling apart due to UV exposure) so I thought that maybe some installers might have some words of wisdom regarding this. I haven't noticed any signal loss, so it isn't affecting my reception at this time. I just wonder if it is a "change out the cable asap" or a "replace the cable in a few years" situation.

 

[cablewithaview]

With the shielding visible, I would change it in the near future. Once that outer jacket has been compromised, it will sux water and effect it all the way to the centre pin.

 

[Stargazer]

It is only a matter of time. Fix it now or fix it later but if you wait until later you might be without television until you get the cable. You might as well go ahead and get the cable.

 

[RandallA]

Like cablewithaview said, water will get inside and you will begin to have problems with the signal. I had to replace a RG6 Quad cable run one time because of the same thing, water got inside and the cable Internet modem was getting no signal.

 

[Foxbat]

It looks like we'll have some warmer temps later this week. Thanksgiving up on the roof? Isn't that the new Comcast commercial?

 

[raoul5788]

With the shielding visible, I would change it in the near future. Once that outer jacket has been compromised, it will sux water and effect it all the way to the centre pin.

It's also possible that the water will travel all of the way to the receiver and get inside. Not good!

 

[Foxbat]

It's also possible that the water will travel all of the way to the receiver and get inside. Not good!

If it did that, it would be "magic water" as it would need to traverse the drip loops leading into my DP34 switch, through the switch, migrate along 30' of RG6U, weep across the barrel connector in the wall plate, then finally wick uphill the last four feet of coax to the receiver.

 

[Mike500]

If it did that, it would be "magic water" as it would need to traverse the drip loops leading into my DP34 switch, through the switch, migrate along 30' of RG6U, weep across the barrel connector in the wall plate, then finally wick uphill the last four feet of coax to the receiver.

Yeah, it CAN happen. It's a combination of capillary action and water or head pressure. Water can travel extraordinary distances in very very narrow spaces. That's how geologic ground water travels.

 

[Foxbat]

Yeah, it CAN happen. It's a combination of capillary action and water or head pressure. Water can travel extraordinary distances in very very narrow spaces. That's how geologic ground water travels.

But, Mike, through a DishPro switch? I think I'll worry more about paying taxes on the Powerball lottery that I'll win with the ticket I haven't bought than water migrating through my cable plant.

 

[Todd Humphrey]

What color cable are you using? White cable is generally NOT UV resistant and should never be used outdoors. There is some White coax rated for UV exposure, but most installers have no clue. Grey cable is only somewhat UV resistant and should not be used in areas with heavy direct sun exposure.

Charcoal is the magic ingredient in a coax jacket that makes it UV resistant. For white cable a chemical is needed. Grey cable has less charcoal.

 

[RandallA]

But, Mike, through a DishPro switch? I think I'll worry more about paying taxes on the Powerball lottery that I'll win with the ticket I haven't bought than water migrating through my cable plant.

In my case, water made it all the way to the splitters. The cable guy disconnected the cables from the splitter and the splitter was dripping water. I was like, WTH?

 

[bhelms]

FWIW, I really think quad is overkill for sat. connections. I'm a believer in quad in applications where there can be interference issues including problems with multipath picked up in the downlead, but I can't see where that would ever be a problem with the sat. signals. I use quad in my OTA / analog connections for the above reasons, but use a conventional DS coax for all the sat. stuff.

I recently checked the QS in my 25+ y.o. OTA installation (Tandy cable, IIRC) and there was definitely evidence of water in that cable. The F-connector at the bottom (inside the house, at the ground block) had green corrosion in it, due to a combination of moisture and a bias voltage, and the foil itself was "powdery". Given the corrosion I was surprised I was getting any signal at all! But from the outside the cable looked intact. I won't replace it now as that whole combination will be soon be obsoleted/torn-down, replaced by a new UHF-only system...

 

[Todd Humphrey]

Water can wick along the braiding a VERY long way. This is why you should use "flooded cable" if burying cable more then a few inches. If you cut the cable while digging in your yard, and the hole fills with water, the water will wick several feet up both open ends. When that cable is repaired, you just trapped the water inside the cable.
Flooded cable has a gooey compound in the braid which prevents water wicking.
Any cut in the jacket were water can reach the cable is a potential water intrusion source. Cable should be protected at any point where it can move and be cut. This includes loops that wrap over roof edges, metal siding, ect...

Flooded cable should NEVER be routed inside. The flooding compound can expand in a warm interior and drip out the end. Very nasty to clean off a carpet.

 

[bigjohn500]

Guys, I place the exposed sections of ALL cables inside a flexible auto-type corrugated PVC split jacket. It is UV and heat proof for 10 years. Go to Advance Auto parts, they have all you want. Prevents UV degradation, squirrel [furry tailed rats]chewing, hail damage, nuclear war.

MPAA Lobbying for Home Theater Regulations

http://www.bbspot.com/News/2006/11/h...gulations.html

John

dsr922, 10' aluminum mesh, C + KU Chaparral feedhorn, LCD projector, 8' screen, 600 watt kenwood

 

[Todd Humphrey]

If the cable is dried out, it is UV exposure. If it is rubbed off, it is friction by moving back and forth across the roof as the wind blows. If inside wire loom (as you stated) and still dried out and cracked, it is simply the worst cable to ever be manufactured.

This is not a wait and see what happens. The cable is shot and should be replaced ASAP. As water gets into the dielectric (foam center of the cable), the signal will degrade. Replace the cable as it fits your schedule and not in a rush to see the next game. Sooner or later the cable will short and start drawing more currant from the receiver. Most likely will not permanently harm the receiver before the picture fails, but it does nothing to make it last longer.

 

[Foxbat]

Thanks for all the responses. Unfortunately, it's going to have to last the winter as the temps are below freezing and we're predicted to receive over 10" snow in the next 24 hours.

The cable is black, so I'm inclined to believe it's crap. I just wish I knew if this was from RatShaq or some other source so I can avoid them in the future.

Also, I was looking at the new SatelliteGuys sponsor and believe by reloating the dishes to the eaves, I can minimize the exposure to short lengths of cable that would be easily replaced if this happens in the future...

 

[Liable]

They are on your roof but not on the eaves?

!protest

 

[Mike500]

What color cable are you using? White cable is generally NOT UV resistant and should never be used outdoors. There is some White coax rated for UV exposure, but most installers have no clue. Grey cable is only somewhat UV resistant and should not be used in areas with heavy direct sun exposure.

Charcoal is the magic ingredient in a coax jacket that makes it UV resistant. For white cable a chemical is needed. Grey cable has less charcoal.

That might have been true 10 or even five years, ago. The new stuff has UV inhibitors and is UV resistant, especially, if it is UL listed. It's the cheap brands that don't have it. Unfortunately, a lot of it is sold to low ball satellite fulfillment install companies. This, even if it is sweep tested to 3 Ghz.

 

[Mike500]

Flooded cable should NEVER be routed inside. The flooding compound can expand in a warm interior and drip out the end. Very nasty to clean off a carpet.

Times Fiber Amphenol makes a cable trademarked Lifetime. It has only a thin coating of high viscosity floodant, not the gooy mass.

Direct burial cable comes in two variations. The heavily flooded ones with polyethylene jackets are like firecracker fuses and spread flame and toxic gases throughout their length in a fire. Lightly flooded cable has a vinyl jaclet that is UL listed for use in attics, inside walls and in basements.

Unfortunately, the polyethylene stuff is the one that resists acids from plant root tip penetration.

 

[Todd Humphrey]

The most recent white cable I had to replaced was installed by Dish Network Service Corp, hardley a low-ball fulfillment company. Most the cable I have had to replace was US Made. I realize that there is white coax which is UV resistant, however, it is rare to find an installer who even knows the differance, or for that matter a distributor that knows the differance.
This is not about installers caring, it is about distributors stocking. In this entire country there are only two satellite distributors that stock flooded coax. TWO!!!

I would not be surprised if at least 99% of all DBS installs, where the coax had to be buired, the coax was not flooded or in conduit. Most installers have no clue what flooded cable is or if they do, care enough to get it.

On the same token. Most installers have no clue if the white cable they have on their rig is UV rated, or care. So, if you have white coax on your home you should check to make sure it is UV rated (not just UL rated), otherwise you might be finding yourself with cracked coax someday.