Replace a DPP44 with a DPP33?

[tennisnut]

A few weeks ago we upgraded from VIP receivers to 2 Hoppers w/ Sling and 2 Joeys (1 attached to each Hopper). Because of obstructions, we have to have two dishes: a 500+ with 2 LNBs and a wing dish with 1 LNB. The installing tech didn't know how to handle that situation, but after talking to his supervisor he used a DPP44 switch (with power inserter) feeding a duo node, all in our attic. I told him when he first arrived that I didn't want anything in the attic that required a power supply to the attic. That's because we have fairly frequent power outages in our area, and I keep the receivers on uninterruptible power supplies (UPSs) to provide power until I can get a generator started.

Looking at another SatelliteGuys thread (which predates release of the HWS) it looks to me like replacing the DPP44 with a DPP33 might solve the power problem, since the DPP33 doesn't need a power inserter. However, when I called Dish technical support, the CSR, who didn't seem to be a star, said that the hoppers in my situation need a DPP44, and a DPP33 would not work properly. When I asked why, she fumbled around saying that the DPP33 wouldn't handle the speed of the Hoppers with Sling. I know that the HWS has a faster processor, etc. than the original Hopper, but by then my BS meter was screaming.

So here are the questions:

1. Will my installation of dishes and HWSs described above work with a DPP33?
2. If not, are there some other 2-dish choices that would work without requiring an 110VAC power source in our attic? I don't know much about the various dish and related circuitry optons.

If the answers to 1 and 2 are both no, there's always the option of powering the power inserter from a room in the house with a UPS, but that will require either running power from the UPS through walls to the power inserter in the attic or moving the power inverter to the UPS and running the 28V coax from the power inserter through walls up to the attice. Neither of those options is ideal for reasons I won't go into, but that may be the only solution.

 

[3HaloODST]

Yes as long as you only need three sats the DPP33 will work fine

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[TheKrell]

3HaloODST: Do you happen to know if a DP34 ahead of the DPP33 would also work?

 

[3HaloODST]

DP34 wouldn't work with the Hopper. Hopper requires DPP switches/LNBs.

DP34 may be able to work with the DPP33 cascaded, but the usual limitations apply to the DP34 such as one cable per tuner etc. .

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[tennisnut]

Yes as long as you only need three sats the DPP33 will work fine

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Thanks for the quick reply, 3HaloODST. A tech is scheduled for tomorrow. I hope he has a DPP33 on the truck. I'm sure that would be preferable to shimmying into the attic to run wires to move the power inserter

 

[vash1090]

Thanks for the quick reply, 3HaloODST. A tech is scheduled for tomorrow. I hope he has a DPP33 on the truck. I'm sure that would be preferable to shimmying into the attic to run wires to move the power inserter

He won't. We stopped carrying DPP33's three years ago. As far as I know only thr commercial techs can order them.

You said you have a 500+ dish, are you not using the 118.7 sat? If you are, you would definately need the DPP44 for the four inputs (119, 110, 129, 118.7).

You also said you were worried about the swith losing power. The switch is powered by the power inserter which is normally plugged in right beside the receiver since it is in-line power.

 

[TheKrell]

DP34 may be able to work with the DPP33 cascaded...

That was my question. If you have two Hoppers already (or 3 dual-tuner VIP receivers in my case), and want to add another receiver, you're out of luck without the DPP44 which is rather pricey. I already have a DP34 cascaded into a DPP33 in my attic, but they are unplugged since Dish upgraded my dual dish setup to the 1000.4.

 

[3HaloODST]

Can't add another receiver other than more Hoppers or a single owned 211 without a separate account.

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[TheKrell]

Can't add another receiver other than more Hoppers or a single owned 211 without a separate account.

That was not my question. So, suppose you have two Hoppers already (consuming all lines on a 1000.x antenna). What is the cheapest way to add a 211? Would a cascaded DP34 into a DPP33 work? I have an equivalent problem with 3 dual tuner DVRs connected to my 1000.4. No more antenna outputs are available for any other receiver. But I already have a DP34 cascaded into a DPP33. I was hoping to discover somebody who has run into this problem so I don't buy a receiver that I can't even use without a DPP44. We know a DPP44 has the smarts to turn off the switch in a 1000.x antenna. I think people have also used a DPP33 for their Hopper(s), but this is pointless to add to a 1000.x antenna since you don't increase the number of switch ports by doing that. But a DP34 has passthrough ports which work quite nicely going to a DPP33 to service a solo or dual node, and then gives 4 other outputs for 4 other tuners.

 

[tennisnut]

He won't. We stopped carrying DPP33's three years ago. As far as I know only thr commercial techs can order them.

You said you have a 500+ dish, are you not using the 118.7 sat? If you are, you would definately need the DPP44 for the four inputs (119, 110, 129, 118.7).

You also said you were worried about the swith losing power. The switch is powered by the power inserter which is normally plugged in right beside the receiver since it is in-line power.

That will be a disappointment if the techs here don't carry DPP33s anymore. Depending on what the tech tomorrow is willing/able to do, I may buy a DPP33 and install it myself if I can get a new one. Only have 3 inputs - 110 & 119 on the 500+ and 72.7 on the wing dish. As I said originally, the power inserter, DPP44, and node are all in the attic. I can live with moving the power inserter down one floor, where there is a UPS but no receiver, but I would prefer not to need a power inserter at all, i.e. use a DPP33.

 

[Tampa8]

Mine is powered inside, next to one of my receivers. I use a generator and simply plug that in along with the receiver and TV.

 

[TheKrell]

I may buy a DPP33 and install it myself if I can get a new one. Only have 3 inputs - 110 & 119 on the 500+ and 72.7 on the wing dish.

I predict that will work.

 

[3HaloODST]

That was not my question. So, suppose you have two Hoppers already (consuming all lines on a 1000.x antenna). What is the cheapest way to add a 211? Would a cascaded DP34 into a DPP33 work? I have an equivalent problem with 3 dual tuner DVRs connected to my 1000.4. No more antenna outputs are available for any other receiver. But I already have a DP34 cascaded into a DPP33. I was hoping to discover somebody who has run into this problem so I don't buy a receiver that I can't even use without a DPP44. We know a DPP44 has the smarts to turn off the switch in a 1000.x antenna. I think people have also used a DPP33 for their Hopper(s), but this is pointless to add to a 1000.x antenna since you don't increase the number of switch ports by doing that. But a DP34 has passthrough ports which work quite nicely going to a DPP33 to service a solo or dual node, and then gives 4 other outputs for 4 other tuners.

When I upgraded from 2 Hoppers to 3 Hoppers (now 4) I added a DPP44 and a DPP33 to my existing DPP 1000.2 WA. The manual for the DPP33 stated that it isn't compatible with the DPP LNBs. I suspect that it could be a power issue or some such. My theory is that since the DPP44 has the power inserter and/or the internal gear to turn off the DPP switch in the LNB that that is the reason my DPP33 works flawlessly when cascaded from the DPP44. I have read that the DP34 has been known to work with the DPP LNBs but people (may) have run into issues with longevity when using that configuration. My guess is that the DP34 would cascade with the DPP33 just fine. Of course, you would have to put the 211 on the DP34 and the Hoppers on the DPP33. Personally I would just spend the dough for the DPP44, just for peace of mind. Or, you could coax the installers into giving you a DPP44 whenever you do a Hopper upgrade.

 

[3HaloODST]

He won't. We stopped carrying DPP33's three years ago. As far as I know only thr commercial techs can order them.

You said you have a 500+ dish, are you not using the 118.7 sat? If you are, you would definately need the DPP44 for the four inputs (119, 110, 129, 118.7).

You also said you were worried about the swith losing power. The switch is powered by the power inserter which is normally plugged in right beside the receiver since it is in-line power.

The DPP44 can't be powered from a Hopper line. A totally separate line to port 1 of the DPP switch would be necessary. As a matter of fact, Dish recommends against using port 1 (power inserter passthru) with the node. They recommend using ports 2-4 only.

 

[3HaloODST]

That will be a disappointment if the techs here don't carry DPP33s anymore. Depending on what the tech tomorrow is willing/able to do, I may buy a DPP33 and install it myself if I can get a new one. Only have 3 inputs - 110 & 119 on the 500+ and 72.7 on the wing dish. As I said originally, the power inserter, DPP44, and node are all in the attic. I can live with moving the power inserter down one floor, where there is a UPS but no receiver, but I would prefer not to need a power inserter at all, i.e. use a DPP33.

There is also a new DPP 500+ LNB that you could replace the old DP 500+ LNB with. You would need three lines from the DPP 500+ LNB going to the Duo Node, and the 72.7 wing dish would go on the LNB IN of the DPP 500+ LNB. Also, you could just get a DPP 1000.2 EA installed for 61.5 and 72.7. I'm assuming that you don't have LOS to 129.

 

[tennisnut]

There is also a new DPP 500+ LNB that you could replace the old DP 500+ LNB with. You would need three lines from the DPP 500+ LNB going to the Duo Node, and the 72.7 wing dish would go on the LNB IN of the DPP 500+ LNB. Also, you could just get a DPP 1000.2 EA installed for 61.5 and 72.7. I'm assuming that you don't have LOS to 129.

3HaloODST had the solution. The Dish tech came this afternoon, and, as predicted by vash1090, said they don't carry DPP33 switches. When I told him I really don't want a power inserter anywhere if possible and showed him the quoted posting above by 3HaloODST, he said he could do what I wanted with a DPP 1000.2 antenna and the wing dish pointed at 72.7 connected to the LNB IN port of the 1000.2. He said the only wrinkle would be if the DPP1000.2 was receiving any(really ANY?) signal from 129. One of the other techs he conferred with said that occasionally one of two installed Hoppers can receive a signal from 129 in that configuration, which would also be a show stopper. The only good thing I can say about those trees is that they adequately blocked 129 LOS, and all is working well. I may have to fertilize those tress now to keep them healthy! I doubt we will ever have a good signal from 129, but now I know what to do if that happens.

Thanks for all the good suggestions, folks. It's great to have choices. I LOVE SATELLITEGUYS and its forums!