I know there are a few on here that own one of these or the chrysler counterpart in the 3.3L and 3.8L engine configuration so heres a tip if you ever have to replace the power steering pump. The store bought repair manuals tell you to remove the exhaust to get the pump out from the back lower end of the engine bay, dont do this because you would have to remove the exhaust from the engine back to get it out and it would involve far to much work. There is a much easier way to do this and thats to remove the passenger side drive axle wich will take you about 15 mins with power tools and 45 mins without.
You'll need metric wrenchs and ratchet set to do this as well as a half inch breaker bar and a socket to remove the hub nut. You'll also need a 3lb sledge and a manual ball joint press combo kit and a pry bar. If your doing it without power tools then get yourself a 3 foot length of galvanized pipe to add to the breaker bar, I can put 200lbs behind a standard breaker bar and I needed the pipe to add 2ft to get the nut to break.
Take off the passenger tire, remove the cotter pin and lock nut and spring washer, take off the hub nut using the socket and breaker bar, remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod and the lock nut then use the 3lb sledge to knock the outer tie rod up and out of its hole, remove the ball joint using a wrench and socket both 21mm, use a large flat screw driver to open the gap at the ball joint and then use a large pry bar to push the lower A arm down and move the strut assembly out so the axle shaft will come out of the hub, use the pry bar to pop the other end of the axle shaft out of the transmission case being careful to not allow it to fall on the ground and not let any grit get on it so when it comes out wrap it in a clean rag. At this point you can unbolt the PS pump using a wrench on the three outward facing bolts under the pulley and a rachet on the back bolt, ( theres a bracket on the back that you will have to remove from the bolt out of the rear of the pump body and leave it atached to the engine block). Once you have all the bolts out drop the pump down and then move to the middle of the engine bay and pass it through the sub frame assembly.
The pulley on the pump is a press on so unless you have a pulley removeal tool and a press tool take it to a shop and have them do it, it cost me $5 to have it done.
Getting the pump back in is a bit tricky but take your time and it will get back into its bracket but the pump will get heavy quick so I recommend getting some help to hold it in while you get one of the outer facing bolts in, once you get one in then its not to hard to get the others in but make sure they're all in before you tighten any down. Once its in then get the axle shaft back into the trans, slip the trans end in being sure to be careful not to jam it, you'll need to rotate it with a slight bit of pressure till you feel the splines line up and fall into place, once you get that to happen then give it a good shove feeling for the C clip to pop into place. Take the other end and pulling the wheel hub / strut tower out slip the end in easily rotating the hub and moving the spindle around until the splines from both line up and it falls into place then put the ball joint back in making sure to line up the groove with the bolt hole, put the hub nut back on and tighten it down to torques specs and put the other parts on. Put the outer tie rod end back down into the hole, use the ball joint combo press kit to press the tie rod end back down into the hole, if you dont do this then the tie rod end will just spin and you wont get it bolted back in, be sure to put the cotter pin back in here as well.
Its a bit of work but if your like me then you'd rather do as much of the work on your car/truck/van as I do not only to save money but to clear the mind ( hey its one of my zens ) but one thing I hate is having to fight to get something done and this way to get the pump out works so much better and I thought I would pass this on as I've gotten some help from members here on other repairs.
I noticed also that the 2001 and up the water pump is located where the ps pump is at on the earlier models so it'll probably have to be the same way to remove it.
You'll need metric wrenchs and ratchet set to do this as well as a half inch breaker bar and a socket to remove the hub nut. You'll also need a 3lb sledge and a manual ball joint press combo kit and a pry bar. If your doing it without power tools then get yourself a 3 foot length of galvanized pipe to add to the breaker bar, I can put 200lbs behind a standard breaker bar and I needed the pipe to add 2ft to get the nut to break.
Take off the passenger tire, remove the cotter pin and lock nut and spring washer, take off the hub nut using the socket and breaker bar, remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod and the lock nut then use the 3lb sledge to knock the outer tie rod up and out of its hole, remove the ball joint using a wrench and socket both 21mm, use a large flat screw driver to open the gap at the ball joint and then use a large pry bar to push the lower A arm down and move the strut assembly out so the axle shaft will come out of the hub, use the pry bar to pop the other end of the axle shaft out of the transmission case being careful to not allow it to fall on the ground and not let any grit get on it so when it comes out wrap it in a clean rag. At this point you can unbolt the PS pump using a wrench on the three outward facing bolts under the pulley and a rachet on the back bolt, ( theres a bracket on the back that you will have to remove from the bolt out of the rear of the pump body and leave it atached to the engine block). Once you have all the bolts out drop the pump down and then move to the middle of the engine bay and pass it through the sub frame assembly.
The pulley on the pump is a press on so unless you have a pulley removeal tool and a press tool take it to a shop and have them do it, it cost me $5 to have it done.
Getting the pump back in is a bit tricky but take your time and it will get back into its bracket but the pump will get heavy quick so I recommend getting some help to hold it in while you get one of the outer facing bolts in, once you get one in then its not to hard to get the others in but make sure they're all in before you tighten any down. Once its in then get the axle shaft back into the trans, slip the trans end in being sure to be careful not to jam it, you'll need to rotate it with a slight bit of pressure till you feel the splines line up and fall into place, once you get that to happen then give it a good shove feeling for the C clip to pop into place. Take the other end and pulling the wheel hub / strut tower out slip the end in easily rotating the hub and moving the spindle around until the splines from both line up and it falls into place then put the ball joint back in making sure to line up the groove with the bolt hole, put the hub nut back on and tighten it down to torques specs and put the other parts on. Put the outer tie rod end back down into the hole, use the ball joint combo press kit to press the tie rod end back down into the hole, if you dont do this then the tie rod end will just spin and you wont get it bolted back in, be sure to put the cotter pin back in here as well.
Its a bit of work but if your like me then you'd rather do as much of the work on your car/truck/van as I do not only to save money but to clear the mind ( hey its one of my zens ) but one thing I hate is having to fight to get something done and this way to get the pump out works so much better and I thought I would pass this on as I've gotten some help from members here on other repairs.
I noticed also that the 2001 and up the water pump is located where the ps pump is at on the earlier models so it'll probably have to be the same way to remove it.
