(Re)install question

Smwoodward

SatelliteGuys Pro
Original poster
Jan 6, 2013
259
0
Alabama
Ok, so I am in the middle of major renovations of my house, and in the process I am going to put in a central wiring for cat6 and coax, put in jack at the walls and what not. I am going to put in multiple jacks in the house so that when my wife gets a wild hair we have the flexibility to do it. I am going to use RG-6 cable throughout the house, put a compression end on each end of the RG-6 inside the wall, put a jack at each end, at the wall and the punch down panel. I am going to be using Leviton jacks and plates at the wall and Panduit panel at the central location. I want to run the two feeds from the dish to the closet, move the solo node into the same closet, then use short extension cables to connect them based on where my wife wants things at the time.

So here's a few little questions.

#1 does this sound like it will work?

#2 The f-type connectors at the jacks and the punch panel needs to be high frequency connectors that have a blue center correct?

#3 Right now I only have one hopper and one joey, I will be adding a second Joey soon, off the solo node, the to Host side goes to the Hopper and the to Client side goes to the Joey right? How will I add the second Joey when I add it?

If there is any other info you want to give me Please feel free to let me know.
 
I don't know where everyone is.

#1 does this sound like it will work?

Yes.

#2 The f-type connectors at the jacks and the punch panel needs to be high frequency connectors that have a blue center correct?

This is very important for the Hopper wires and the satellite wires. Not as much for the Joey wires.

#3 Right now I only have one hopper and one joey, I will be adding a second Joey soon, off the solo node, the to Host side goes to the Hopper and the to Client side goes to the Joey right? How will I add the second Joey when I add it?

You are right. Host port goes to Hopper. When the second Joey is added, add a 0-1000 two-way splitter to the client leg with one connection going to each Joey.
 
Make sure the RG6 is rated to 3gHz as well. You need that to the Hopper location and if you might move it, you'll need it everywhere you might move it to.
 
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I've ordered quad shield 3ghz rg-6 and going to use that on all the drops. I am also going to put the high freq f-connectors at each end of the drops that way I am not limited to what locations I can put the hopper, I just have to change the jumper wires at the patch panel.
 
How many sats do you pick up on the dish? You should run at least one feed from the dish to the node per sat to make it future-proof. Never know if you might want to add another Hopper (or two.)
 
How many sats do you pick up on the dish? You should run at least one feed from the dish to the node per sat to make it future-proof. Never know if you might want to add another Hopper (or two.)
I am honestly not sure. I know i'm using the solo node with only 2 lines running to it. I am going to relocate the node to the wiring closet and pull the wires from under my crawl space to the attic and down into the closet. If the future requires me to have two hoppers, that would require dish to make an install run correct? If that is the case if the need arises that I need another hopper, I will let the tech run it.
 
If you are going to relocate the node ... you could just run a third line from the dish to your closet accordingly ... of course the third line would not be connected to anything on either end, but it would be there for future expansion.

Or, like you said, if you need it, you can have it run at the time too.

In the end what ever ends up being easiest for you.
 
If you are going to relocate the node ... you could just run a third line from the dish to your closet accordingly ... of course the third line would not be connected to anything on either end, but it would be there for future expansion.

Or, like you said, if you need it, you can have it run at the time too.

In the end what ever ends up being easiest for you.

Considering I'm in the middle painting, then laying carpet, replacing a few water lines, remodeling the bathroom, and running the cat6 and rg-6. Yeah, if I get to the point of needing the third line I will just let dish do it when I add a second hopper.
 
Ok, so I am in the middle of major renovations of my house, and in the process I am going to put in a central wiring for cat6 and coax, put in jack at the walls and what not. I am going to put in multiple jacks in the house so that when my wife gets a wild hair we have the flexibility to do it. I am going to use RG-6 cable throughout the house, put a compression end on each end of the RG-6 inside the wall, put a jack at each end, at the wall and the punch down panel. I am going to be using Leviton jacks and plates at the wall and Panduit panel at the central location. I want to run the two feeds from the dish to the closet, move the solo node into the same closet, then use short extension cables to connect them based on where my wife wants things at the time.

So here's a few little questions.

#1 does this sound like it will work?

#2 The f-type connectors at the jacks and the punch panel needs to be high frequency connectors that have a blue center correct?

#3 Right now I only have one hopper and one joey, I will be adding a second Joey soon, off the solo node, the to Host side goes to the Hopper and the to Client side goes to the Joey right? How will I add the second Joey when I add it?

If there is any other info you want to give me Please feel free to let me know.
Pm the client side you need a two way splitter with one joey on each output. See the Manuals in the stick hopper area. All hookups are in there. Page 5 has yours.
 
Ok, so here's a question for anyone. What is the purpose of using a solo node, use a tap off the host side, one to the hopper and then one to a splitter then to two joeys vs putting the hopper on the host then splitting the client side to two joeys???


edit:

more of the question is what is the point of tapping the host line to a hopper and a joey vs splitting the client side to multiple Joeys' I see even using a duo node and two hoppers they have it done both ways.

another questions, which doesn't apply to me right now since I don't have two hoppers, I see on diagram it has an isolator on the client side of the duo node and it has a note that programming is not shared between receivers on these lines due to the isolators. Would that be if you wanted two hoppers and several joeys, and you wanted to keep the hoppers from not seeing each other and keeping the joeys linked to only one hopper? I don't see the point in that.

Also, what is the DPP switch used for?
 
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Ok, so here's a question for anyone. What is the purpose of using a solo node, use a tap off the host side, one to the hopper and then one to a splitter then to two joeys vs putting the hopper on the host then splitting the client side to two joeys???


edit:

more of the question is what is the point of tapping the host line to a hopper and a joey vs splitting the client side to multiple Joeys' I see even using a duo node and two hoppers they have it done both ways.

another questions, which doesn't apply to me right now since I don't have two hoppers, I see on diagram it has an isolator on the client side of the duo node and it has a note that programming is not shared between receivers on these lines due to the isolators. Would that be if you wanted two hoppers and several joeys, and you wanted to keep the hoppers from not seeing each other and keeping the joeys linked to only one hopper? I don't see the point in that.

Also, what is the DPP switch used for?

there's some explanation here of DPP in the switches section here:
http://www.dishuser.org/equipmenu.php

a better Hopper wiring diagram link:
http://www.satelliteguys.us/showthread.php?t=279755

As to your first two questions, the tap just gives flexibility to the installer on how a system is installed. Let's say an installer runs into a home where only one RG6 is run from the outside the home to the interior and they can't run anymore. Dish made the node system very flexible so that it can be installed a few different ways. If you don't need a tap in your system for wiring flexibility, then don't use one.
 
Okay... A little information can start a flood.

The tap is used in cases like putting the solo (duo) at the dish and only using one (two for the duo) line to the demarc. The single feed is then fed to the tap and provides the Host and client side to the installation. It just gives the install tech some flexibility in the install. This is just one example of the myriad of possible node/ tap combinations.

The isolator allows the hoppers to have two separate networks if wanted or needed. Like, maybe, momma and daddy want to have parental control on the kid's hopper and leave their hopper open.

If the Hopper system is being added to a 1000+ for example, the 1000+ has four separate feeds and have to be fed to a switch usually a 44. The switch then provides two or three stacked feeds to the solo or duo node. To expand, switches provide a stack of bands (two bands - 950 to 1400 and 1450 to 2150) to the receiver. That is why the 722 and other pro plus receivers have a splitter behind them. And more... the solo and duo add a third stacked band for the three tuners in the hopper.
 
Okay... A little information can start a flood.

The tap is used in cases like putting the solo (duo) at the dish and only using one (two for the duo) line to the demarc. The single feed is then fed to the tap and provides the Host and client side to the installation. It just gives the install tech some flexibility in the install. This is just one example of the myriad of possible node/ tap combinations.

The isolator allows the hoppers to have two separate networks if wanted or needed. Like, maybe, momma and daddy want to have parental control on the kid's hopper and leave their hopper open.

If the Hopper system is being added to a 1000+ for example, the 1000+ has four separate feeds and have to be fed to a switch usually a 44. The switch then provides two or three stacked feeds to the solo or duo node. To expand, switches provide a stack of bands (two bands - 950 to 1400 and 1450 to 2150) to the receiver. That is why the 722 and other pro plus receivers have a splitter behind them. And more... the solo and duo add a third stacked band for the three tuners in the hopper.

Gotcha. I didn't see a difference between tapping the host line vs using both, but I see now that it just depends on the install. I also understand the isolator now too.

The switch I think is starting to get over me as for what I use/need. That might be one of those things I will just have to tell myself, I don't need to really know what it's used for, and it just works because it's magic.:cool: Sometimes hard to do being a techy person I usually want to know what/how/why on most anything. lol
 
Gotcha. I didn't see a difference between tapping the host line vs using both, but I see now that it just depends on the install. I also understand the isolator now too.

The switch I think is starting to get over me as for what I use/need. That might be one of those things I will just have to tell myself, I don't need to really know what it's used for, and it just works because it's magic.:cool: Sometimes hard to do being a techy person I usually want to know what/how/why on most anything. lol

I use a 44 switch to feed my duo node and keep one line free for a 211.
 

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