Powermax24 Actuator Problem

[avenger]

Today my Powermax24 actuator shaft became disengaged and Is free moving by hand in the extending direction. It is resting at 78W, and does not move the dish in either direction.

Has anyone experienced this problem with their actuator and is this hard to fix?.

Any advice or help is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Magic Static]

The nylon screw nut is stripped. Time for a new one. This time buy a good one or you will be doing this every year LOL

 

[RimaNTSS]

Open broken actuator, identify the problem and then fix it. Easy like that.

 

[avenger]

Magic Static, Thanks for the reply. What name brand actuator would you recommend?

 

[Titanium]

Venture Actuators: MAXI Ball Screw or the lighter duty MAXI ACME Screw type.

http://www.venturemfgco.com/satellite-actuators.html

 

[primestar31]

Those Powermax actuator's are cheap Chinese Superjack clones. I'd never use one on a dish larger than 6ft. I've seen them bend in half!

I second the Venture ball-screw actuator. I'm using one that's pushing 20 years old, and it's just as good as the day it was installed. I can't even hear it when it moves my 10ft dish, and it's dead on the money for aiming, every single time. Be aware that it's much more expense up front than a Powermax, but you're likely to keep it running for life...

Get at least the 24" model, if your dish doesn't need a 36" (old fiberglass):

https://impaktproducts.com/CBand-KuBand-Linear-Dish-and-Solar-Panel-Movers-p-1-c-270.html

 

[Babadem]

I may be in the market for a new actuator. Good info.

 

[avenger]

Hello good people, I have just given my Powermax 24 a new lease on life. The problem was not with the plastic nut, but the bearing that keeps the inner shaft centered. The bearing discentegrated spilling the ball bearings out.

The inner screw that pushes the rod shaft in and out, retained the inner part in which the ball bearing ride. The other half (race) of the of this assembly was tacked welded to the inside wall of the push (extending) rod, broke the tack welds, forced and removed the inner race piece from the wall.

Inserted a piece of PVC pipe inside the push rod, placed it inline with the remaining half of the bearing race, drilled and tapped four holes from the outside of the push rod, used four 8/32 x 3/8 set screws, filed the ends of the set screws to a rounded point (to fit to the inner race) of the other half of the remaining bearing piece screwed the set screws down, made sure that there was not too much of a drag on the race when the tube turned, filed the set screws heads flushed with the outside of the rod. Put every thing back (assembled ) together. Viola, it worked.

I have no idea how long this modification will work, but so far I am a happy camper.

 

[FaT Air]

Didn't happen to take some pictures?

 

[RimaNTSS]

That was I offered in the very beginning

Open broken actuator, identify the problem and then fix it.

And, yes, pictures are missing

 

[avenger]

Sorry for not taking any pictures. At the bottom, and Inside of the push rod there is a very flimsy bearing assembly, this bearing is of a sandwich type, holding ball bearings inbetween two plates. The bearing is located close to the electronic box that contains the motor gears. As the motor spins, the 24" screw turns, extending or retracting the push rod. As mentioned earlier, the outer bearing assembly is tacked welded to the inside of the push rod, the 24" screw goes thru the middle of the bearing and is held by a nut, this nut seems to tacked welded to the tip end of the screw, the other half of the nut, a piece of a blade is also tacked welded, this blade goes into the motor assembly, the motor spins clockwise or counter clockwise, making the shaft extend or retract, via the plastic nut at the opposite end of the push rod, which this nut seems to be pressed fitted into the end of the push rod.

It is said that a picture is worth a thousand words, sorry again for not having taken any. I just hope that this explanation is somewhat clear of what I did.