One Receiver, One KU Motorized Dish, One BUD Motorized Dish. Possible?

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GMFreak8

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Original poster
Aug 25, 2005
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Adirondacks
Alright, I'm really sorry for all the threads and questions. I promise, they'll be coming to an end.

Anyway, is it possible to have one receiver (mercury II) connected to a 100cm dish powered by a SG2100 motor, and also connected to a BUD which is powered by an actuator? How would I go about doing this? I want to give myself the option of having C-band in the future via a dedicated dish. Thanks guys for all your patience with me. :eek:
 
Well hopefully it's possible somehow, because I just did this:

Product : Quantity : Price
(MercuryII,SG2100,DISH,ULN1)M2 FTA Motorized Satellite System : 1 : 245.00
100CM Dish Upgrade with system purchase : 1 : 54.00
FFDP9NullModem Cable with system purchase : 1 : 3.00
SF95Kit special with system purchase : 1 : 0.01
142606 DIY Install Kit : 1 : 25.00

Discount : -16.35
Subtotal : 310.66
Shipping : 81.48
TOTAL : 392.14

*cries at amount he just spent*
 
No problems doing that. Do you want to move the BUD via actuator using your FTA receiver? If so, you'll need a vbox-style positioner since your FTA receiver won't have the ability to control an actuator (most FTA receivers, including the one you purchased control the motor position via diseqc signals sent over the RG6 cable. an actuator uses a positive/negative/reed sensor wire system. The vbox positioner converts between the two systems).

If you want to control both dishes from one receiver (once you have the vbox, or maybe use an H-H positioner designed for a smaller c-band dish), you'll need to be able to switch between the two dish mover motors. You can either do this using a manual A/B switch, or you can use a specific type of 22k switch to split between them. There are certain 22k switches that will send on the signals to the motors - one made by ecoda will allow you to specify 22k in your dish settings on your receiver for the ku dish, and 0k for your c-band dish, and it will split off the signal and send the positioning down the line to the mover.

Of course, if you're looking at installing a BUD someday, just install it with a C/KU band dual lnbf and use just the one dish to receive all of your programming. Then buy a 2nd receiver to use with your smaller ku dish (you know you'll want more than one receiver.. go ahead and plan for it now)
 
No problems doing that. Do you want to move the BUD via actuator using your FTA receiver? If so, you'll need a vbox-style positioner since your FTA receiver won't have the ability to control an actuator (most FTA receivers, including the one you purchased control the motor position via diseqc signals sent over the RG6 cable. an actuator uses a positive/negative/reed sensor wire system. The vbox positioner converts between the two systems).

If you want to control both dishes from one receiver (once you have the vbox, or maybe use an H-H positioner designed for a smaller c-band dish), you'll need to be able to switch between the two dish mover motors. You can either do this using a manual A/B switch, or you can use a specific type of 22k switch to split between them. There are certain 22k switches that will send on the signals to the motors - one made by ecoda will allow you to specify 22k in your dish settings on your receiver for the ku dish, and 0k for your c-band dish, and it will split off the signal and send the positioning down the line to the mover.

Of course, if you're looking at installing a BUD someday, just install it with a C/KU band dual lnbf and use just the one dish to receive all of your programming. Then buy a 2nd receiver to use with your smaller ku dish (you know you'll want more than one receiver.. go ahead and plan for it now)


Excellent. :) I would almost rather have dedicated dishes to both C and KU bands. That way if I have an equipment failure on one, I still have the other as backup. I know it sounds weird though. Would this switch work for my situation: Sadoun DiSEqC Switch 2-Way DS21 1.0,2.0

The switch won't interfere with the fact that I need a V-box II to control the BUD?

Thanks again. :)
 
If you want 2 dishes as a backup, then you REALLY need to set the BUD as a C/KU combo dish so that it can backup your ku dish. I really can't think of any reason why a person wouldn't go ahead and set their BUD for C/KU (as long as the equipment supports it) since the cost of the combo lnbf is nearly the same as a single c-band only lnbf.

As far as the switch - no, that wont work. You can't place a diseqc between the receiver and the motor because it wont send your diseqc signals reliably upstream past the switch and to the motor. Therefore you need a 22k tone switch to place between your receiver and motor/vbox. The 22k tone switch needs to be a special type that will pass the mover commands forward reliably - look for a 22k tone switch made by ECODA. I use one of them for my setup and it works fine (the only funky thing about the way it works, is that depending on how you have it setup and whether you're using diseqc or usals to move your small dish, some movement commands may sneak through to both dishes at the same time. not a big problem since you're only watching one dish at a time anyhow)

See the rudimentary drawing (linked below) of one of my setups using a couple KU dishes and a C-Band dish. You'll see the 22k ecoda switch right after the receiver and before the dish movers (in my case the sg2100 mover for the ku dish, and the moteck vbox2 hooked to an actuator for the BUD)
attachment.php
 
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If you want 2 dishes as a backup, then you REALLY need to set the BUD as a C/KU combo dish so that it can backup your ku dish. I really can't think of any reason why a person wouldn't go ahead and set their BUD for C/KU (as long as the equipment supports it) since the cost of the combo lnbf is nearly the same as a single c-band only lnbf.

As far as the switch - no, that wont work. You can't place a diseqc between the receiver and the motor because it wont send your diseqc signals reliably upstream past the switch and to the motor. Therefore you need a 22k tone switch to place between your receiver and motor/vbox. The 22k tone switch needs to be a special type that will pass the mover commands forward reliably - look for a 22k tone switch made by ECODA. I use one of them for my setup and it works fine (the only funky thing about the way it works, is that depending on how you have it setup and whether you're using diseqc or usals to move your small dish, some movement commands may sneak through to both dishes at the same time. not a big problem since you're only watching one dish at a time anyhow)

See the rudimentary drawing (linked below) of one of my setups using a couple KU dishes and a C-Band dish. You'll see the 22k ecoda switch right after the receiver and before the dish movers (in my case the sg2100 mover for the ku dish, and the moteck vbox2 hooked to an actuator for the BUD)
attachment.php

yeah, I'll probably go ahead with the c/ku LNBF on the BUD when I get it anyway. The only place I can put it, might not have access to all the satellites, depending on tree growth and whatnot though, so I'm thinking maybe a two dish setup would work better, just incase one satellite is blocked on one dish, I can access at least the KU on the other dish. Plus, I'll admit it, a two dish setup is just cool. :D


Thanks for the clarification on the switch, and the diagram. I'll check the one by ecoda out and bookmark it for when I need it.

Thanks again. :)
 
I have been running a two motor setup as you have described for years. It can be done with your receiver and a vbox all on one cable run in the following configuration with no splitters or a/b switches.

RECVR to VBOX to SG2100 to DISEQC SWITCH to LNBS.

Hook your vbox to the actuator via cat5 for power and control.

Your recvr can operate both the vbox and the sg2100 on the same run because the vbox is taking 1.2 commands while your sg2100 is taking USALS 1.3 instructions.

Works great! Let me know if you need further clarification.
 
I have been running a two motor setup as you have described for years. It can be done with your receiver and a vbox all on one cable run in the following configuration with no splitters or a/b switches.

RECVR to VBOX to SG2100 to DISEQC SWITCH to LNBS.

Hook your vbox to the actuator via cat5 for power and control.

Your recvr can operate both the vbox and the sg2100 on the same run because the vbox is taking 1.2 commands while your sg2100 is taking USALS 1.3 instructions.

Works great! Let me know if you need further clarification.


Cool. Anything that cuts down on the complexity is good. I was drooling over a mesh dish today. If only I could get my KU setup working first. :(
 
I have been running a two motor setup as you have described for years. It can be done with your receiver and a vbox all on one cable run in the following configuration with no splitters or a/b switches.

RECVR to VBOX to SG2100 to DISEQC SWITCH to LNBS.

Hook your vbox to the actuator via cat5 for power and control.

Your recvr can operate both the vbox and the sg2100 on the same run because the vbox is taking 1.2 commands while your sg2100 is taking USALS 1.3 instructions.

Works great! Let me know if you need further clarification.
Since the sg2100 also takes 1.2 commands, does the vbox forward the movement commands and thusly affect the movement of the sg2100 every time the vbox moves?
 
One could say yes to the 2100 moving on the 1.2 commands, but I have not encountered that problem...maybe because it's not storing the positions that my vbox is on 1.2. Maybe someone here can speak more intellegently on the subject. I just know that it works! My Cband moves via vbox on 1.2 and my 90cm Ku moves by SG2100 on 1.3.
 
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