Old PrimeStar dish

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st290

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Mar 10, 2016
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I, i'm new to the site and also new to FTA, i have an old 36" PrimeStar dish that i would like to use for fta and was wondering if this receiver will work with this dish.
X2 M1-HD FTA DVB-S2 PVR Mini HD Satellite Receiver

Will the original LNB be ok or would i have to get a new one, i have done some reading and understand that i would need a diseqc switch in order to use both horizontal and vertical.
Thanks
 
What is the make/model # of the LNB?
If 2 outputs, one labeled V and the other H, use a multiswitch to get both polarities. If single output it may be single polarity.
Those are great dishes BTW. I've got a few.
:welcome to Satelliteguys.

Oh, that receiver should be fine, I hope anyway, no experience with it here.
EDIT, just saw the specs, doesnt list AAC or dolby.(audio)
 
That model has separate Horizontal and Vertical polarity outputs.

As Fat Air pointed out, combine the two ports with a 13/18v multi-switch. The LNB "H" port connects to the switch 18v port and the LNB "V" port connects to switch 13v port. Connect the switch output port to the receiver LNB IN port.


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You could use a DiSEqC switch or a 22 kHz tone switch to select the LNB output as well but in that case you would probably need to program two satellites into the receiver, one that would receive only the vertical transponders and the other that would only receive the horizontal transponders. So a 13/18v multi-switch would be much more desirable but the ones I have seen online except for the one in the next paragraph are intended for use with up to four receivers (for use with certain types of Dish Network or DirecTV dishes and LNB's) and I am not certain if you can power both sides of the LNB from a single receiver. Perhaps someone else could address that. I used to have a dish like that set up with a 22 kHz tone switch but I did have to put the H and V sides in my receiver as if they were separate satellites, otherwise there was no way to select the correct polarity.

If you only want to use one wire from the dish to your receiver then you could probably strap something like this to the dish pole but I don't know of anyplace in the USA that sells them, and you'd still want to put a waterproof cap over the unused output. But at least it's not as big as the ones meant to feed four receivers: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Gece...LNB-V-H-multi-switch-MS-2201/32459418250.html

Strangely I have found that the original LNB, assuming it still works at all, often works as well as or better than a newer model on those dishes. But another option is to replace the original LNB with a voltage switched one, such as one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LNB-270KU-D...E-ASPEN-INCLUDING-THE-FEED-HORN-/222025469056

Unfortunately the shipping charge on those is rather excessive IMHO, don't know if that's because it's coming from Canada or because the seller wants to make a few extra bucks that he's not paying eBay a commission on. I would have probably purchased one or two some time back to get a couple old Primestar dishes I have working again if the shipping charge didn't seem so unreasonable. You can also use a regular Ku LNB but you'll need to figure out how to attach it to the dish arm and I think that with some other brands you can't get the focal depth set correctly, so any signal gain you get from having a newer LNB is cancelled out by not being able to set the focal depth to the precise optimum distance from the center of the dish, at least not without more mechanical skills than I possess.
 
I'm using a 4x4 multiswitch on a single dish.Using only one LNB w/ 2 receivers. works well.
( Another with Cheaper $/free shipping)
Don't use a standard LNBF with the dish. Performance suffers greatly as the scalar shape doesn't match the dish. It will only use/see the center of the dish. The front of the factory one is that particular shape to see the whole dish. Been there / done that.
( first Link above is to the same model I use,- not recommending any particular seller)
Forgot to mention - use only 3Ghz sweep tested RG-6 to make LNB / receiver connections.
 
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Don't use a standard LNBF with the dish. Performance suffers greatly as the scalar shape doesn't match the dish. It will only use/see the center of the dish. The front of the factory one is that particular shape to see the whole dish. Been there / done that.

That explains it then. I had always wondered why a modern LNBF with presumably better specs would not perform any better, and sometimes even worse than the old original one from the factory. Maybe it has to do with the shape of the end of the LNB, if you look at that one on eBay with the exorbitant shipping charge it has that same end shape that sort of follows the curve of the oval dish. So maybe that is part of the reason.
 
I think the key is oval feedhorn. The NJR/Eagle Aspen lnb's look like they bolt to a horizontally oval feedhorn. Up here in Canada, Shaw Direct uses vertically oval feedhorns. xku 002.JPG
 
Yup. My 84e worked about as well as a 60cm dish when it's had a typical Ku LNBF on it. When I put the factory feed and LNB on it then easily outperformed my 70cm Channel Masters. (Not quite the performance of my 1.0 meter) My thinking is, about like an 80cm. May be the reasoning for naming it and 84e(?)
 
I put to gather and maintain my own computers and also work on them at work ,but i feel like i somehow stepped off the deep end of the pool(this got over my head real quick:biggrin).
Thanks Everyone :clapping
 
Well, put it together, running coax to just one connector on the LNB. Think the V one should do. Program receiver with (Frequency)11959 V(ertical) SR- 22000** in G19 (97W)

www.dishpointer.com for your aim and skew.
Set dish to elevation listed.
Set skew to angle listed. When facing the dish, the LNBF is twisted CCW if the satellite is West of you. CW if it's East.
Watching the tune up screen, with a known active transponder** selected, move the dish in small steps across the line dishpointer paints on the page. Wait a few seconds before performing another step. It may take up to 10 seconds for the receiver to 'lock' the signal and display Quality. If no Quality is attained, raise or lower the elevation no more than 1 degree and repeat. Once Quality 'registers' maximize the reading with even smaller steps L-R & up-dn.
Then blind scan (only V polarity if possible) for the rest on that polarity.
 
All you need is a multi-switch and receiver. You got a good dish and lnb/feedhorn already. Lot's of people here to help you point it and get going.
Catamount
 
The dish is already setup and pointing to 91w Galaxy 17,i have a 3x4 multi-switch all I need to do is get some RG-6 to complete the run from the
switch to the receiver.

Why only connect the "V" pole, can the "H" pole be connected at the same time?
 
Both polarity outports of the LNBF will be connected to the multi-switch at the same time. The LNBF H port connects to the 18v port of the multi-switch and the LNBF V port connects to the 13v port of the multi-switch.


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Galaxy 19 (97W). Weak signal in Brooklyn.

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