I have been reading posts on here for a long time but I just need someone to tell me what I need. I have been messing around with FTA Ku for a while I think understand that. But know I picked up a 7.5' BUD this is where I need help. I was thinking about getting the Open Box S9, my Bud has no lnb does not even have the mounting arms, I read all about the focal point think I got all that, my question is what lnb do I want, should I just keep it a C-band dish or get a C and Ku lnb this is where I need help kind of lost on the big dish. Oh one more thing don't have a dish mover yet wanted to get it up and working first. Thanks Guys.
Need your help guys please!!!
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ok Where , or is it When?, lol. Just kidding , nothing better to do now, lol. That seems to be an 8 footer so is good for C band andseems in good condition as well except a minor thing at 1 panel I guess. If you already have Ku then you better dedicate this dosh for C band only. Just get a C band only LNBF (usually 35 bucks or so). you can also build the support for the arms probably with harware or small pipes from a local store. but you need to know the focal distance either by searching with the model number or by meassuring it yourself . f = D*D/16d where D is the diameter and d is the depth of the dish meassured perpendiculary from the bottom center to an imaginary line from edge to edge. both meassures in same ........ units. f or focal distance will be in same units. you also need to calculate f/D since this ratio is used to adjust the LNBF Scalar Ring.
do you also have the dish mount? if so you could install it fixed and get familiar aiming at sats then you can consider adding an actuator arm (not a moteck please!, get an old used american made in america actuator arm like von weise or venture or thomson saginaw and forget what the communist are saying about the russian made new fridges back in cuba, lol, I escaped from Russian BS to fall in Chinesse BS , it hunts me!!!!). the mount could be a polar or an AZ-Elev kind of mount. If it is polar it can be motorized easily with an actuator (but at first it can be installed as a fixed dish until an actuator is added) , if it is Az-Elev only it was designed to be a fixed dish.
There is a C band section here with lots of info about it. Here I am still trying to make a riddle with the word What similiar to this one with That but no luck yet;
I said that,"that 'that' that that man wrote should have been underlined."
5 that in a row and still it is a proper sentence!.
do you also have the dish mount? if so you could install it fixed and get familiar aiming at sats then you can consider adding an actuator arm (not a moteck please!, get an old used american made in america actuator arm like von weise or venture or thomson saginaw and forget what the communist are saying about the russian made new fridges back in cuba, lol, I escaped from Russian BS to fall in Chinesse BS , it hunts me!!!!). the mount could be a polar or an AZ-Elev kind of mount. If it is polar it can be motorized easily with an actuator (but at first it can be installed as a fixed dish until an actuator is added) , if it is Az-Elev only it was designed to be a fixed dish.
There is a C band section here with lots of info about it. Here I am still trying to make a riddle with the word What similiar to this one with That but no luck yet;
I said that,"that 'that' that that man wrote should have been underlined."
5 that in a row and still it is a proper sentence!.
If you already have a motorized Ku, I'd put the BUD on C band only. Maybe try it on Ku later. The hole size of the mesh should be SMALL for Ku. If you can get half, or more, of the sharpened end of a pencil thru the holes, may be marginal on Ku. Should be able to fashion feed support arms out of 1/2 inch conduit. Flatten the ends, drill appropriate holes, paint, etc. but you've probably figured that out all ready.
Get a couple of well-lit pictures of the back side of the dish.
Need to see what mount it has.
Also, a closer view (and again, well lit) of the center of the dish from the front.
That'll help decide if it had a button hook, before.
I just can't tell, viewing the picture on my laptop.
It's a shame you need to build quad legs to support the scalar on your first BUD.
It's not hard, but doing it right means doing it once, and that's preferable.
If you make 'em a little bit adjustable, it'll be more work.
But if you make 'em fixed, and get 'em wrong, you're screwed.
Hard to make a recommendation without more facts.
I suggest you get a discussion going with several members here, and take the best advice you can get on the subject.
Also, a larger diameter conduit doesn't really cost much more, so I'd be thinking one inch, if it was me.
Need to see what mount it has.
Also, a closer view (and again, well lit) of the center of the dish from the front.
That'll help decide if it had a button hook, before.
I just can't tell, viewing the picture on my laptop.
It's a shame you need to build quad legs to support the scalar on your first BUD.
It's not hard, but doing it right means doing it once, and that's preferable.
If you make 'em a little bit adjustable, it'll be more work.
But if you make 'em fixed, and get 'em wrong, you're screwed.
Hard to make a recommendation without more facts.
I suggest you get a discussion going with several members here, and take the best advice you can get on the subject.
Also, a larger diameter conduit doesn't really cost much more, so I'd be thinking one inch, if it was me.
Thanks Guys, on the one picture of the front of the dish it looks like where someone had the arms mounted there are 2 more holes just like it where the panels meet.
Looks like a SAMI dish, a lot like my 10' , construction-wise. You could make it work , with the effort to find the focal distance and 'build' some lnb-supports (simple conduit would work). I think I would keep looking, for a bigger dish for c-band, unless it was the only one I had.
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