My Dish is a little slow in this cold weather...

[iBoston]

My actuator motor is complaining about the dish being stuck. Its not stuck, its just creepy from the COLD weather. What would you all suggest as an alternative gear oil to use. This is a brand new motor, and it's been suggested to put a better oil in the gears that can handle the cold temps. It never gets very hot here. We can count the # of 80 degree days without running out of fingers. So, no worries of very high temps here.

I know I'm not the only one that is or has had this issue. Ill go by YOUR experience and take your suggestions.

 

[FTA4PA]

First winter for my c band dish and I'd like to know as well. While not stuck here yet, I did notice the numbers on the vbox ticking by S L O W E R than usual during the past few nights of single digit temps. Greased everything with white lithium grease (what I had on hand) before the cold set in but know there is probably something better out there.

 

[FaT Air]

I've known a few that used heat tape wrapped about the motor and tube. Some even overwrapping with insulation. The newer heat tape is self regulating so can be wrapped over itself without overheating.

 

[Magic Static]

Are you sure the actuator is the problem? When it gets below zero my mounts get hard to move. The grease stiffens a bit and it makes the actuator work harder

 

[jorgek]

If it is oil that is the problem then see if you can get a synthetic equivalent.
You can try replacing the grease with a silicone type.

 

[cee]

[QUOTE="Magic Static When it gets below zero my mounts get hard to move. The grease stiffens a bit and it makes the actuator work harder[/QUOTE]
I get good overtime on elevator service calls when grease stiffness up.

 

[iBoston]

I have to use the ASC remote and shuffle it 4-5 ticks one direction and then back before i can move to another satellite without the ASC complaining.

 

[Titanium]

A little insider information: The ASC1 will issue a warning if no switch cycle is received back from the actuator within 450ms. A standard gear ratio actuator might have 20+ cycles per degree, so this time-out means that the dish is not moving 1/10th of a degree with-in a second of run time.

In my opinion, even if it would take 5 seconds (half time) to move the first degree with 32 - 36Vdc @ 5A, there is a problem. Also, look at the big picture and not only concentrate on the actuator. The reflector's pivot points could be binding as metals will contract and expand differently. A bolt-through pivot may be torqued properly for tolerances at 70F, but bind at 0F.

 

[N6BY]

... Also, look at the big picture and not only concentrate on the actuator. The reflector's pivot points could be binding as metals will contract and expand differently. A bolt-through pivot may be torqued properly for tolerances at 70F, but bind at 0F.

I agree. My Unimesh was getting stuck and the solution turned out to be lubing the pivot points.

 

[bpalone]

OK, for some points of interest. I have a 100 foot run to my Bud Actuator and the VBox fails even in moderate temps. The wiring is new as may May or June of 2014 and is of appropriate size. As of this time, my solution has been to drag some old electronic hardware, in the form of an old satellite actuator from the 80s. It does the job, just fine.

I just recently acquired a new toy, that allowed me to measure the current on the actuator wires. I was quite surprised by the amount of start up current when it was just barely below zero F. I did see a momentary 9 amps once, then it fell back down to less than 2 amps once in motion.

For a thought, think of yourself setting out there in the cold for hours not moving. You are going to be a bit slow and stiff to start off, too.

 

[FTA4PA]

Jorgek mentioned silicon and synthetic. Any recommendations for a specific brand/type for c band dishes that must function in temps that get down to single digit or less?

 

[N6BY]

...
I just recently acquired a new toy, that allowed me to measure the current on the actuator wires. I was quite surprised by the amount of start up current when it was just barely below zero F. I did see a momentary 9 amps once, then it fell back down to less than 2 amps once in motion. ...

I have a low current clamp-on amp meter too and they are extremely useful. Its a GTC CM100 for 1 mA to 100 Amp measurements. I originally got it to diagnose a parasitic drain in my sons car. But its great for everything else too.

Anyway, the momentary 9 amp inrush current is reasonable for a motor (electromagnet). It has very low impedance until a magnetic field has built up in the motor windings to resist current..

 

[Mikey11]

Are you sure the actuator is the problem? When it gets below zero my mounts get hard to move. The grease stiffens a bit and it makes the actuator work harder

exactly what i was going to say, make sure all the pivot points on the dish are greased well,

to grease some points properly you might need to remove some of the bolts, grease the shaft of the bolt then re-install it

 

[Lone Gunman]

WD40 works pretty well for lubing dish pivot points. I keep a can on the work bench next to the door specifically for this purpose and I use it about once ever 10 days to 2 weeks. WD40 will also help move water out of the bushings. Using stainless steel bolts in these pivot points is a good idea as well as they won't rust!

As for the actuator itself, the Von Weise movers I have all have that white lithium based grease in the gear boxes and mine have been working fine down to 8* F this year. The acme lead screw on those with the nylon nuts have NO lube on them! At least the ones I have didn't have any. I used a really light almost fluid grease on the ones I converted to brass nuts and they don't seem to slow down with temp changes either.

 

[Cham]

My Von Weiss motor gave my ASC-1 a challenge a few nights ago when the temp dropped to about -32 with lots of wind... Would give an error message and cut out when the wind would gust. This was while moving between 72 and 127W. Once the dish passed center there was no problem. Tells me I will have to look at replacing the grease again, I think it picks up moisture from the air during the summer and causes the grease to thicken more than it should when cold.

I use low temp silicone lube used for corn harvester combine headers in the winter. Viscosity doesn't normally change much from hot to very cold.

 

[FTA4PA]

I'm thinking of purchasing this and would like everyone's thoughts on it: http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=387EN

 

[Cham]

Looks fine to me..

I'm thinking of purchasing this and would like everyone's thoughts on it: http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=387EN

 

[KE4EST]

I'm thinking of purchasing this and would like everyone's thoughts on it: http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=387EN

That should work.

 

[FTA4PA]

Looks fine to me..

That should work.

Thanks!

 

[Lone Gunman]

I'm thinking of purchasing this and would like everyone's thoughts on it: http://www.dowcorning.com/applications/search/default.aspx?R=387EN

I have a tube of that stuff but haven't used it for anything but lubing the rubbing block on old ignition points type automotive distributors. I "confiscated" this one when I worked in the nuclear service industry as it doesn't contain any leachable chlorides and has certifications from Dow. What that means is it just costs 5 times as much! We used it on the tools we used working on the steam generator tube sheets so it is good stuff. That isn't a cold environment though. In fact it's rather hot, radiation wise. That should work OK for you though.

And a final note, -32*???? I'm assuming that's C not F but did you ever consider moving to a warmer climate?