Is my LNB good?

ZandarKoad

Amish Satellite Technician
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Apr 13, 2005
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I'm not sure if I've asked this before, but does anyone know the best way to test a Dish Network LNB to see if it's good?

I'm currently running complete Proof of Performance scans on LNBs (using an AI Turbo S2 meter) so I've got pretty much all the data one could hope to acquire, but what does it all mean? I know what the C/N numbers mean, but I don't know what is acceptable across the different transponders (some are below 10, some above 17). I also know what the IRD numbers are, but again, what is acceptable and what is not? I know these numbers are going to vary based upon what type of dish you are using (1000 vs 1000.2 vs 1000.4 west, etc) as well... So I'd have to compare apples to apples so to speak.

Also, is there a way to determine from the data if an LNB is experiencing LO-Drift?

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Us dish techs don't have a fancy meter like that, well we use a super sat buddy 29, but we test an lnb by doing menu-6-3-analysis-send status. On this screen check connection then check signal. If any values on tuner 1 or tuner 2 are 0, or there is around 10 points of variance between tuner 1 or 2 you have bad wire or lnb.

Also, menu-6-1-3 let it run through its system check and hit details, it will tell you if it has detected lnb drift here, as well as tell you if there have been any recent signal losses and what time they occurred.

Ofcourse none of this information actually distinguishes between a bad lnb or bad wire, except if it tells you there's drift in the system info details.
 
sperry85 said:
Us dish techs don't have a fancy meter like that, well we use a super sat buddy 29, but we test an lnb by doing menu-6-3-analysis-send status. On this screen check connection then check signal. If any values on tuner 1 or tuner 2 are 0, or there is around 10 points of variance between tuner 1 or 2 you have bad wire or lnb.

Also, menu-6-1-3 let it run through its system check and hit details, it will tell you if it has detected lnb drift here, as well as tell you if there have been any recent signal losses and what time they occurred.

Ofcourse none of this information actually distinguishes between a bad lnb or bad wire, except if it tells you there's drift in the system info details.

Your doing it wrong..... read your tsg.... or so my GM would say.
 
ZandarKoad said:
I'm not sure if I've asked this before, but does anyone know the best way to test a Dish Network LNB to see if it's good?

I'm currently running complete Proof of Performance scans on LNBs (using an AI Turbo S2 meter) so I've got pretty much all the data one could hope to acquire, but what does it all mean? I know what the C/N numbers mean, but I don't know what is acceptable across the different transponders (some are below 10, some above 17). I also know what the IRD numbers are, but again, what is acceptable and what is not? I know these numbers are going to vary based upon what type of dish you are using (1000 vs 1000.2 vs 1000.4 west, etc) as well... So I'd have to compare apples to apples so to speak.

Also, is there a way to determine from the data if an LNB is experiencing LO-Drift?

Thanks for your thoughts.

Didn't it come with a manual? I'm sure all that info would be in there. If not maybe contact the manufacturer..

The only thing I know how to read on my super sat is signal strength and dbm level. If dbm is outta wack I change parts, but I am in house so we swap parts all the time just to swap parts to make the custy feel better. :/
 
Dishman1978 said:
Your doing it wrong..... read your tsg.... or so my GM would say.

Eh, I may not follow the trouble shooting guide, in fact I haven't even read it even though its sitting in my truck, but I don't get trouble calls unless a customer moves a receiver.

Also note that you want to use the stbh screen to do the limit scan and not the meter because the meter doesn't use band stacking and therefore can say everything looks good, while tuner 2 is missing transponders.
 
Last edited:
sperry85 said:
Eh, I may not follow the trouble shooting guide, in fact I haven't even read it even though its sitting in my truck, but I don't get trouble calls unless a customer moves a receiver.

Also note that you want to use the stbh screen to do the limit scan and not the meter because the meter doesn't use band stacking and therefore can say everything looks good, while tuner 2 is missing transponders.

Thank you for giving me a good explanation to give my GM the next time he asks why I didn't do a limit scan behind the reciever. Its one I haven't thought of.
 
Eh, I may not follow the trouble shooting guide, in fact I haven't even read it even though its sitting in my truck, but I don't get trouble calls unless a customer moves a receiver.

Also note that you want to use the stbh screen to do the limit scan and not the meter because the meter doesn't use band stacking and therefore can say everything looks good, while tuner 2 is missing transponders.

That seems like a rather serious short coming of the meter... Unable to test band stacking functionality of an LNB?
 
From the satbuddy manual...

Frequency Deviation
If you select Freq Dev = YES, the bottom line of the Run Screen display will be replaced with an estimate of the frequency deviation or drift of the LNB. The Super Buddy is capable of locking onto a signal up to ± 10 MHz from the frequency defined for the transponder. A frequency deviation of more than 2 MHz (2000 kHz) may indicate a problem with the LNB. High or low temperatures will cause an LNB to drift and an LNB that works in normal weather with a significant drift may fail to work in hot or cold weather due to the additional drift. Please note that the Frequency Deviation feature will only work while you are receiving a LOCK on a satellite.
 
I'm not sure if I've asked this before, but does anyone know the best way to test a Dish Network LNB to see if it's good?

I'm currently running complete Proof of Performance scans on LNBs (using an AI Turbo S2 meter) so I've got pretty much all the data one could hope to acquire, but what does it all mean? I know what the C/N numbers mean, but I don't know what is acceptable across the different transponders (some are below 10, some above 17). I also know what the IRD numbers are, but again, what is acceptable and what is not? I know these numbers are going to vary based upon what type of dish you are using (1000 vs 1000.2 vs 1000.4 west, etc) as well... So I'd have to compare apples to apples so to speak.

Also, is there a way to determine from the data if an LNB is experiencing LO-Drift?

Thanks for your thoughts.

Alexander,

I sent you a private message and email with details about LNB testing using your AI Turbo S2 satellite meter.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be glad to assist. Also, if you or any other users of Applied Instruments satellite meters would like to do a 1 on 1 webinar (takes about 1.5 hours) over the internet, we can shed some light on many of the advanced features of the Super Buddy and/or AI Turbo S2 satellite meters to help you get the most out of your investment.
 
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That seems like a rather serious short coming of the meter... Unable to test band stacking functionality of an LNB?

sperry85 & ZandarKoad,

The Super Buddy and AI Turbo S2 satellite meters are most certainly compatible with band-stacked systems (as long as the frequencies in the stacked system are within the tuning frequency range of the meters and most on the market are) and that's why we have the LNB choices in the meter and thus on the back-end the meter knows what commands to send to each model of LNB to control it and account for the various band-stacking methods.

Let me know if you have further questions about this and I'll be happy to discuss.
 
I know its been a whole year, but teaching the new techs about frequency deviation and lnb drift and found this thread again ..

So, Mr satbuddy, the meter then handles this automatically? As in checking tuner 1 and tuner 2 while doing the limit scan, even though it only gives you one set of signals? Or do you have to go in and select a setting for each tuner? Curious, because I can do a limit scan on the receiver itself, come back with good signals on tuner 1, no signals on tuner 2, yet meter say good signals on the line. Swap out receiver, and get the same readings, swap out the line and receiver read everything is great.

Am I doing something wrong here?
 

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