That's what I was meaning Jimbo, an HR34, HR24, and C31s at the other two tvs. If he can't get the C31s now, he could get one H25 now and add the C31 later.
Install Issues - Need Advice
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That's what I was meaning Jimbo, an HR34, HR24, and C31s at the other two tvs. If he can't get the C31s now, he could get one H25 now and add the C31 later.
Hello raoul5788,
Solid Signal is advertising the C31 for purchase. The price is $ 39.00 plus $ 4.95 for ground shipping. Availability usually ships 7 to 12 business days.
http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.as...Client-for-Use-With-DIRECTV-HR34-HD-DVR-(C31)
If you get it from Solid Signal, it would still be a lease. It would reset your commitment date.
Wait wait wait, He's got two lines from the dish to the house. That's enough for 16 tuners, he doesn't need four lines.
He could install the SWM 16 switch at the dish. Run four lines from the LNB to the switch hanging from the dish, then run the two SWM trunks to the house. At the house junction, install two 8-way swim splitters. Presto, 16 SWM channels. Now, the two SWM trunks won't talk to each other to share the whole home, so you'll need to pick one receiver which will not get whole home. I'd say make it the HR24, since that won't need it anyway most likely.
Otherwise just go with the C31.
He could install the SWM 16 switch at the dish. Run four lines from the LNB to the switch hanging from the dish, then run the two SWM trunks to the house. At the house junction, install two 8-way swim splitters. Presto, 16 SWM channels. Now, the two SWM trunks won't talk to each other to share the whole home, so you'll need to pick one receiver which will not get whole home. I'd say make it the HR24, since that won't need it anyway most likely.
Otherwise just go with the C31.
This is exactly what I was thinking. From what I understand though there are new SWM16's that were designed with HR34's in mind that do pass MRV from one port to the other.
unishick,I am not educated enough about the outside. The one thing I took from the conversation with the installer was this....I can get by with 8 tuners with only 1 coax feed from the dish to the house (in which I have 2 with my current DISH setup), BUT anything over 8 tuners (which my equip ordered equalled 9 tuners) I would need 4 coax feeds from dish to house in which is currently not possible unless I remove 900 sq ft concrete patio. As a result, I am trying to see what my options are for only leveraging one coax feed into house which supports 8 tuners. Now my simple mind wonders why 1 coax can support 8 tuners, but the 16 tuner switch needs 4 coax lines? The math doesn't add up
To answer your question, the SWM-16 (that supports 16 tuners) only needs 4 lines from your LNB to the switch box which is usually located close to the dish (usually under the eves). The SWM LNB has the SWM switch co-located with the LNB so you only see the one line coming out of the LNB. In the "old days" you had 4 lines coming from the dish to the SWM-8 switch. Like the SWM-8 LNB, the SWM-16 box gets it's power from a power inserter inside you home.
If you were to upgrade to a SWM-16 you would only have 2 lines (up to 8 tuners each) going from the switch to your house.
Hope this clears things up a bit. (Your post seems to have wandered all over the place. Hope you can understand all this.)
Bob
Let me seek to simply. My current dish network dish is roughly 60 ft from the house (only line of sight available) with ONLY 2 feeds coming to house. Installer (who seemed experienced) told me I need at least 4 lines coming into the house from the dish because of the equipment I ordered (HR34, HR24, H25, H25) a total of 9 tuners and the intent to have them all talk to each other.
I believe I recall him saying as well the switch must be in the house (maybe for power)?
Is he wrong?
I believe I recall him saying as well the switch must be in the house (maybe for power)?
Is he wrong?
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The SWM16 is weatherproof and can be mounted outside. The power supply can be mounted inside near the splitters, or even at a TV location if needed. The SWM16 gets power either from the dedicated power port or from the SWM1 port. Either way, the power can be injected into the cables you already have, so there's no need to run any additional cable. The installer just needs to make sure the power injector is connected to the cable going to the SWM1 port. He may not have realized that it can be powered from there, he may have thought it only works with the "DCPWR" port.
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Thanks Jersey.
A couple questions before I pass this info over to the installer.
1. Does your described setup allow sharing between all receivers?
2. Any concerns with this setup as I will be pushing the 150 ft. threshold from dish to furthest receiver by the time I get from dish to ground (outside power source) to home run location to furthest receiver? Really want to avoid any potential signal loss if at all possible.
Thanks!!
A couple questions before I pass this info over to the installer.
1. Does your described setup allow sharing between all receivers?
2. Any concerns with this setup as I will be pushing the 150 ft. threshold from dish to furthest receiver by the time I get from dish to ground (outside power source) to home run location to furthest receiver? Really want to avoid any potential signal loss if at all possible.
Thanks!!
Yes he is wrong. But only from a technical standpoint. He may be required to put all switches indoors per company or QC policies. But there is nothing technically that requires that. The switches are all weatherproof (assuming proper fittings and drip loops).
I can't help you with #1, as that's a new piece of hardware that I'm unfamiliar with.
I wouldn't worry to much about #2. You can always put two four way SWM splitters on your two trunks (instead of two eight way SWM splitters) to reduce dB loss. Then on one port off a 4-way, put a two way SWM splitter to get your 9 lines. dB loss resulting from cable and splitter loss doesn't contribute to rain fade susceptibility.
As far as I know they can. I have done several SWM16 installs, and MRV was there for all receivers. The switch does not have to be in the house. There is no Directv mandate that says they have to be either. So if he says it's company policy, he just does not want to do the job. Just make sure he grounds the lines from the switch going into the house.
I would have been all over this job. Prewired and all, done in 2 hours.
Thanks everyone for the advice. Now I just need to push my install date out far enough so I get a c31 vs H25. For anyone who had successfully recieved a c31 installed - what did the order reflect....did it specify C31 vs H25? Not sure the rep specified in the order so I don't know I need to call and change my order and push out the date. My order just specifies HD receivers from what I can tell.
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