How to adjust Elevation and Peak the Actuator?

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jsattv

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Jul 4, 2006
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I have been studying Shaun Kenny's Video thanks to Linuxman, and reading the Geo-orbit Pages. I have been able to track C Band Satellites fairly well from East to West, and a few Ku Band Satellites such as 97.0W, 95.0W, and 93.0W. BUT I still cannot get 74.0W to the East, and 123.0W the West. Today I loosened the Nuts and re adjusted my 12 Foot Mesh Dish for 97.0W while watching the Signal Quality on my Trimax 2200 Sat meter. I have also tried moving the Dish to 123.0W on C Band, - then bumping and moving the Dish to try and pickup 123.0W on Ku Band with zero results.

I noticed that if I LIFTED the Dish a Bit the Signal Quality on 97.0W got Much Better. The Geo-Orbit page says to Increase the Elevation Angle if Lifting the Dish Produces a Better Signal.

Question: It seems that every time I adjust, elevation, I have to go back inside the House and Move the actuator 1 or 2 Clicks East or West to Peak for the Best Signal. Is there any way to peak or Fine Tune elevation with my Sat Sig Meter without having to bring out the V Box III to the Dish in my backyard and having to cut into the Actuator Cable via a Junction Box?? Any replies would be much appreciated.
 
Question: It seems that every time I adjust, elevation, I have to go back inside the House and Move the actuator 1 or 2 Clicks East or West to Peak for the Best Signal. Is there any way to peak or Fine Tune elevation with my Sat Sig Meter without having to bring out the V Box III to the Dish in my backyard and having to cut into the Actuator Cable via a Junction Box?? Any replies would be much appreciated.

I normally pop the end cap off the actuator and either connect a 12v battery charger to the leads in order to move the dish (not sure how good the 12v feeback into a v-box actually is, so you may not want to do this!), or simply take the two bolts off the motor itself (and remove it) and use a large screwdriver in the slot at the end of the actuator "screw" to turn the actuator manually until it's where I want it. With any luck, all of my saved positions still work since I didn't change anything from the v-box end.
 
I suspect that the trimax will control the v-box ( when its outside for fine tuning) so if you can make a small set of jumper wires it would save you from cutting into the ribbon cable.
 
I suspect that the trimax will control the v-box ( when its outside for fine tuning) so if you can make a small set of jumper wires it would save you from cutting into the ribbon cable.

Thanks a lot for the replies lumpkin 666 and gabshere. George, I'm not sure I understand your comment, - the Trimax Satellite Signal Meter connects to the Ku or C Band LNB coax connection on the Chieta DiseQc switch just like the Satellite Receiver would if I took it outside, so it has no direct control to the V Box III or the Actuator. Maybe bringing out my 12 VDC Battery Charger outside & temporarily removing the wires on the Actuator's wiring to the V Box inside the House and connecting the two + and - V Box Power Wires to the Battery Charger is the answer as Lumpkin suggests??
 
well my suggestion would involve taking the vbox outside and use it with the trimax

so it would get disconnected from your main system so it might not be convenient

Maybe bringing out my 12 VDC Battery Charger outside & temporarily removing the wires on the Actuator's wiring to the V Box inside the House and connecting the two + and - V Box Power Wires to the Battery Charger is the answer as Lumpkin suggests??
this would sound like the easiest method . i've never done it so i don't know how much control you have probably just on off ( plugged in and unplugged) although the 12 v charger should be slower moving than the 36 v v-box
 
Thanks a lot George, sorry that I didn't fully understand your first reply. Yes I think you are right, the battery charger would not provide the fine control that the V Box does. But with the shaky wire connectors on the Back of my V Box III - that is the spring connections on 2 of the posts have popped out twice, I really don't want to have to move it again and re connect it outside to those shaky connectors again. Maybe I'll try adjusting Elevationon the Mesh Dish up slightly then go back in the House and cycle the V Box 1 to 2 clicks to see if it has improved Sat reception?
 
i think at the lower voltage of the 12 v charger, you can make smaller movements. mainly cause 12 v would cause it to move slower.... but this is just me thinking lol

disconnecting the wires at the motor should keep you from having to undo the wires at the v-box ( just make sure they don't get close to the power from the charger) and have the v-box powered off

good luck on the tuning
 
Well I must be getting closer. Yesterday I decided to use the Sat Meter and try to peak up a Satellite I already had. I chose 127.0W on C Band which only had 15% Quality since the rain storm on Tuesday, so I tuned it in and slowly moved the mount and got a better Signal on 127.0W especially BBC and others. Tightened up the Bolts on the Pole and came in.

The mosquitos are really bad here right now - had to put on a Blue Jean jacket in the 95 degree heat! Inside the house I ran 4 Clicks to the East on the Actuator and I had 65% Quality on 127.0W. The best part is all the rest of the Sats were better after readjusting the Actuator for 4 clicks - but it took an hour to readjust and resave.

Unfortunately still can't find 123.0W and 74.0W on Ku Band but I can see occassional blips of signalling on the Tp's on them. Would more Small Adjustments on the Mount be the way to go to pull in 123.0W??
 
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