How do you slave a STB?

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oblio

SatelliteGuys Family
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Oct 24, 2011
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In another recent thread discussing weak S10 power supplies its suggested you can slave one stb to another to boost available line power. Can someone describe the correct method/hookup for doing this? Most stbs have both a LNB line in and a loop port so what gets connected to what in what order and how do you control your video output? Is this a practical solution for a power challenged receiver?
 
In another recent thread discussing weak S10 power supplies its suggested you can slave one stb to another to boost available line power. Can someone describe the correct method/hookup for doing this? Most stbs have both a LNB line in and a loop port so what gets connected to what in what order and how do you control your video output? Is this a practical solution for a power challenged receiver?

Oblio,

The antenna or the LNBF connects to the IF IN (or LNB IN) input on the MASTER receiver. The LOOP OUT port of the MASTER connects to the IF IN (or LNB IN) input of the SLAVE receiver.

Both receivers should be connected to a TV obviously, so that that you can see what you are controlling on each receiver.

The MASTER receiver provides power for the motor, the LNBF and any external switches you have installed. The MASTER receiver controls the motor positioning, the internal switch of the LNBF to control polarity and any external switches port selections to control either the polarity of some LNBFs or to select between different antennas if you have a dish farm.

Since the MASTER controls either the motor or the external switches to select between various fixed point dishes, it has control over the satellite selection. The MASTER also controls all the LNB switching to select the polarity (vertical / horizontal linear or right / left circular). Because of this, the SLAVE receiver may only look at the channels which are of the same polarity and on the same satellite that the MASTER is tuned to.

You will either have to utilize two TV sets. One so that you can see what the MASTER is set to and one to watch with the SLAVE, or one TV with multiple inputs so that you can switch back and forth between the two receivers.

Is this practical? In certain setups it could be. But, overall I don't think I would want to put up with the drawbacks personally.

RADAR
 
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Thanks, makes sense. Basically to overcome S10 power issues I'd have to hook up my old VS as the master with s10 running off the loop port (just my luck VS's were not only power challenged but also motor challenged), control the motor using the VS to move to a sat - then knowing which tp I want to watch with the s10 select an H or V tp on the VS so can watch same polarity on S10. Maybe its all worth it to get the extra channels available from the S10 if the luck of the draw gives you a too weak s10. Maybe though the best answer is wait for something like the new AV box, hopefully it does all that the s10 does but with enough power.

So if slaving is perhaps not ideal, is there another way to get added power into the line? I tried a power inserter but it wouldn't pass ku frequencies (although it claimed it would) and it caused a big line loss all on its own so net net "S" went down, not up.
 
Oblio,

What makes you believe that your S10 receiver has a power problem? What is not working correctly? Is it the motor control, the switch control or the signal strength and quality? Sorry, I don't quite understand the symptoms that you are experiencing.

How far away is your antenna from the receiver in cable length distance? What type of cable are you using?

RADAR
 
I suspect on the S-9's and S-10's etc that the internal voltage regulator is easily damaged by connecting a second receiver to the loop thru port. Some testing I did shows that the loop thru receivers lnb voltage will try to pass to the antenna system with or without the S-9 turned on. So what happens when one is horz and the other is vert. You could have the two voltages "fighting" with the S-9 regulator loosing the battle. If this has happened you may not know right away as the S-9 will still ok after it is damaged and will power up one or two lnb's. But start adding extra switches, lnb's, and motors and the voltage will drop to it's knees.

I would like to discuss this further if I can get some more facts in on it. Anyone want to add to this?
My advice for slaving a second receiver is to use an external splitter with power pass one side only.
Leave the loop thru port alone.
 
Oblio,

What makes you believe that your S10 receiver has a power problem? What is not working correctly? Is it the motor control, the switch control or the signal strength and quality? Sorry, I don't quite understand the symptoms that you are experiencing.

How far away is your antenna from the receiver in cable length distance? What type of cable are you using?

RADAR[/QUOTE)

The most common sympton for power challenged s10's seems to be they will reboot when you try to move the motor on either an H and V tp. I have two S10's - for the same cable set up one will reboot but the other is fine. To get the one unit to work I had to go from 110 feet of "regular" rg6 (which worked ok for my VS Ultra and before that VS Ex) to about 65 feet of a more premium rg6 (no switches in either set up). After that change still only one unit behaves well enough to use and while works ok on H tp's (18v), I lose all meter readings on V tp's (13V) when USALSing or disequing and have to flip tp's to get them back (even though the S reading is now 88% up from 73% before, not that that means all that much). Others have reported identical issues.

Works when it works but far from what you would call highest quality. If shortening the cable made one of my units work (as it did for others), then can only conclude its a simple power issue.
 
I dont know how extensive your switching array needs are but perhaps self powered switch(es) is the answer. That can take quite a load off of a rx running an lnb heavy setup. Should help for long coax runs too.
I dont know how nice it will play with a motor though. As an alternative to out right buying one, there was a thread for a mod to a popular, quality 4x8 switch to make it externally powered. Dont recall the switch brand or the OP at the moment, but Radar, Anole, Stogie, or Ice will recall. Anole is an awesome sight searcher..........if he cant find it it aint there...lol
The mod looked pretty easy for someone with tech level soldering skills. I believe an old 19v lappy PS was considered for the power source. Close enough to the right voltage, plenty of current, pretty common and cheap at resale shops flea markets etc.
I never pass one up if I can get it for a buck or so.


EDIT: My bad it was a 6x8 here's the thread -
http://www.satelliteguys.us/free-air-fta-discussion/190889-naughty-mods-iii-6x8-switch-power.html
 
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I have a dvb-s2 no name box slaved to my cs6000. My no name box has the option to turn off its lnb power, which I do. This box will not switch a 4X1 diseqC under diseqC 1.0 and will probably not run a motor either. I don't know if the s10 or s9 has this option or not. Works alright, but you need to have the master set on the TP you want to watch on the slave.
 
...Is this practical? In certain setups it could be. But, overall I don't think I would want to put up with the drawbacks personally...
I am using this configuration now with my S9 and Coolsat 7000. The Coolsat nicely drives the motor and LNB; the S9 does the signal reception so I can view DVB-S2 and HD signals. It is fine as a temporary solution; it's a pain in the #$% overall. You need to have at least one H tp and one V tp configured on the receiver driving the motor and LNB (Coolsat) for each satellite so you can switch between them to allow the signal receiver (S9) to view each polarity. When you blind scan, you must scan each polarity separately, and then delete all the duplicate channels. Channel surfing (a favorite activity) is a series of a lot of button pushing, and switching the TV input between each receiver. I'm only doing this until the Geosatpro microHD comes available, then I will respectfully shelve the old receivers and enter the 21st century.
 
I just wanted to include this information regarding using the LOOP OUT option for anyone who might desire it......

I have a good example of when using a MASTER and SLAVED receiver is a benefit. This is not related to power issues, but to quality meter, motor control and alignment issues.

I am using the AZBox Premium Plus as my main receiver. I control the dish motor using USALS. However, Hispasat at 30W is out of range for USALS calculations from my longitude coordinate (96.4°W) so I have to switch over to DiSEqC 1.2 and step the motor down the last few degrees to line up with the satellite, then store the optimum position.

The problem is that the signal quality meter on the AZBox is extremely slow to respond to a detected signal. While trying to dial in on 30W, I can miss it easily. Here comes the Cavalry to the rescue! I use the LOOP OUT to feed my Coolsat 5K receiver which I set up to detect the Cubavision TP.
I monitor the signal quality meter on the Coolsat while stepping the motor with the AZBox. When I optimize the signal quality on the Coolsat, I record the motor position using the AZBox.

This is a one time only use and after the position of Hispasat (30W) is stored, I can use the same channel / SAT / DVBS list in several AZBoxes and call up Cubavision immediately. The optimum position of motor alignment using DiSEqC 1.2 for Hispasat @ 30W is stored in the motor memory as P1. All I have to copy from one receiver to the next is the P1 motor position command string. This comes with the channel / SAT / DVBS list that I can transfer between my AZBox receivers. The motor command string to go to P1 is identical now for every AZBox receiver because it is stored in the motor and the command string to select P1 is identical for all my AZBoxes.

The Coolsat was set up to locate 30W long before I got the AZBoxes, but I could not transfer the motor positioning commands from the Coolsat to the AZBox to set this up as the files and operating systems are unique and incompatible between the two.

I am not sure, but maybe I could have just told the AZBox that 30W was at DiSEqC position P1 and it might have sent the proper command to the motor to access that position. I will have to test that someday.

RADAR
 
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