Help needed on actuator

[armadillo_115]

Old Venture (?) actuator is in sad shape.Only markings I found inside say Super Sensor and HITS.Removed motor from actuator and the main tube is rust welded in place.Ideas for breaking it loose?

I hooked up the 2 power wires ONLY. The motor (without actuator) only turns in one direction when I tested it on my truck battery.Switching the 2 wires does nothing.What would cause that? This actuator has MORE than two smaller sensor wires.Could that be the problem?

Sorry,I don't have any pics of the wiring box yet.Will try to post one tomorrow.
Here's a pic before I started taking it apart.Main tube is 31 and 3/8ths inches long.Almost 2 inches in diameter.

 

[FaT Air]

After reversing the battery, and it not running, did you try reversing the battery again?

Here's a pic before I started taking it apart

Pic?
Think maybe a stuck brush and bearing 'play' may be the fault.
Stuck tube- maybe soak in ATF/acetone solution(?)
I've read that vegetable oil with 10% acetone also works as a penetrating oil..

 

[armadillo_115]

Ooops!



Yes,I switched the wires back and forth 3 or 4 times.Never budged in one direction.

I'll probably fall asleep soon,so I'll check back tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[FaT Air]

If the motor was still wired through the gearbox, could be a bad limit switch/diode stopping motor in one direction.
If motor is wired directly to battery, smack (tap?) it with a FTT.
(hammer) If that does it, my thinking is as previously posted.

 

[Magic Static]

Pop that cover off and have a look inside.

 

[armadillo_115]

So far I can only hand turn the actuator bolt 3/4 of a turn,which is only play.Actuator is not budging.I'm soaking it in diesel fuel now to see if that breaks it loose.Diesel fuel is the cheapest thing I could think of.

Here's a tip to save on solvent costs: I glued an end cap on a 3 foot scrap of 4" pvc drain line.Stood it vertical and tied it to a saw horse so it wouldn't fall over.Dropped in the whole actuator,less motor,and poured in the diesel.Only took like 2 gallons. I'll use the dirty diesel to burn stumps and brush.

3" pvc might have been large enough and would use even less solvent.But I already had the 4".

My middle name is "tight" lol.

 

[bpalone]

Might want to watch the cap closely for leaks. The Diesel might attack the glue. I know diesel exhaust attacks the structure of pvc pipe. Knew of a trucker that ended up buying part of his load because he didn't tarp the front of his load. Said you couldn't get anything to stick together with the pipe he bought.

Hope it holds up and that it works for you.

 

[armadillo_115]

I took the motor apart and cleaned it up a bit.Gosh,it was full of spider webs and grime.Teflon motor gears would barely turn due to the old yellow grease being so stiff. Sanded the shaft and bearings to remove the rust,etc.Ran wires straight to motor and it now turns both directions while off the actuator arm.Sounds pretty good.The black sensor wire was broken,and the purple wire is almost broken where they cross over the metal near the plastic wire terminal block.Sensors and diodes may be ok once I re-wire it.Plastic wire terminal block broke from brittleness while I was cleaning out the debris and will need to be replaced.All gaskets are bad and will need to be made.No biggie.

Now for the PROBLEM.I'll use Magic Static's photo since it is identical to mine!

Where I added the GREEN arrow,up under the gray circle (magnet?) thing with the 'V' on it... There is a plastic barrel shaped gear that turns the brass gear on the limiter rod.At least there should be....mine is broken into two pieces.Is it possible to order one anywhere? Limit switches will not work without it.

I'm done with it for today.Rain on the way.No rush to fix it until I determine if the arm will be usable.
Thanks,folks!

 

[Magic Static]

I have one of those motors I use strictly for bench testing controllers. I pulled that gear out and set it aside because I don't need or want a limit system on the bench test unit. I could pop it in an envelope and mail it to you.

 

[armadillo_115]

Now that's what I call results! I'll shoot you a pm in a few days if the actuator arm turns out to be usable.I hate to leave you without one if they are available online somewhere though.Thanks!

BTW,how does that gear attach to the shaft? So it doesn't slip on the shaft.

 

[Magic Static]

The shaft under the magnet is flat sided.(D shaft) The worm gear just slips over the shaft snugly. On my bench motor I removed that worm gear but didn't toss it, I stuck it over the limit switch actuator rod for safe keeping. That is what is pictured above.

 

[armadillo_115]

Magic Static, Been searching online for Venture parts.The only parts list I have found is for the 800 series.(No idea what my series # is) Anyway,they list 3 drive worms:
1)8509-00 Drive Worm,R.H. Single Start, BLACK
2)8509-01 Drive Worm,L.H. Single Start, RED
3)8509-02 Drive Worm,L.H. Double Start, Brass

My broke one is black.Yours is red.If I understand this right,they are not interchangeable?

Here's the parts list in case anyone else needs it:

 

[primestar31]

Call Venture, they are still in business and I'm sure they would be more than happy to assist: http://www.venturemfgco.com/satellite-actuators/ Toll Free: +1 866-365-1957 sales@venturemfgco.com

 

[armadillo_115]

I called Venture MFG this morning.The guy said he will see what he can come up with and call me back later.Doesn't look promising since mine has no model # on it and he says it's doubtful they still carry the drive worm gear that I need anyway.The only identifier that might help is the length of the outer tube.(31.5)

VERY nice of him to try to help me with a small part for such an old product. I give Venture two thumbs up!

A lot depends on how the rest of the actuator tests out.I hate throwing stuff away.Arm is still soaking...it's raining too hard to work on anything today. Rain sure makes a BUD more valuable.

 

[armadillo_115]

Well I got the call back from Venture...They priced a new actuator for me.

 

[armadillo_115]

Actuator arm turned out be be a total mess.Neighbor heated it with an acetylene torch twice and I finally broke the slotted collar off trying to turn the screw.So I cut the outer tube into about 2 inches above the bottom locking nut and screwed the rod back far enough to see inside.The metal acme nut and inner tube is rust welded in place.The threaded rod had broken or rusted off spots all over the threads.Small pieces of metal in the old grease.I expect the acme nut is wore out too,so not worth trying to remove it.

Guess I'll use the actuator off the 7.5 dish to start with.Thanks to everyone for all the help.

 

[armadillo_115]

Tore the old actuator apart today just to see what's inside.I nicked the acme screw and other parts with the saw and chisel...But I knew nothing was salvagable inside anyway.Here's some pics for anyone curious.Right side goess toward the motor,left side goes toward the dish:
_Pipes removed and motor end stripped down.Extension pipe sawed off and visible on the ground below.
< Motor end components
< Components in place.Note the motor shaft collar that we broke while trying to break the actuator loose.
< Up close view of damage to acme threads.Just one bad spot of several.

I'm tempted to build one from scratch someday just for the heck of it.That broken motor shaft collar would be the hardest part to find or fabricate.But then...the old motor would probably die in a week anyway.