welcome to the best site on earth.
I used to install those and sell them sometimes 10 a week back in the BUD days.
The first post was correct
24volt terminals located with two screws marked M1 and M2 (motor power to actuator arm at dish) Make sure your adjustable limits are set so no damage to dish or arm. (they are located in actuator arm box. different subject but I can help there too) Hook your either red and black or red and white thick wires to M1 and M2. Worst case it moves dish wrong way.
Next you just need to put the usueally brown wire and Orange or green wire into the Ground and Pulse \_/ on strip. It is just a ground loop so you can not make a mistake here.
Now for Lnb polorizer hookup,
Simple you have another set of wires. ( this is if you are using true Big dish cable that has 2 rg-6 leads, 1 set of 5 wires for dish motor, and one set of 3 wires for LNB)
Red wire goes to the screw or pinhole marked +5, White goes to Pulse, Black goes to Ground. Note the 2 little wires from the Actuator usuelly go into the ground and pulse that are below the Polorizer wire screws.
Next if you are using a cband lnb it goes into where it says CBAND lnb. If you are using a KU band LNB it goes into lower rg6 input that says KU bank.
You also have to have a UHF antenna if using UHF remote, it screws in where it says Remote antenaa.
This is all the wiring in back needed to get you up and running.
There are other options for other type setups. If you need just ask and I can go by memory.
This is a fairly user friendly reciever to install and program my on screen menus.
The firmware is not going to be accurate to todays satellite locations. Many have changed. I would say you are safe in using intial setup to G5-G1-T3. Go to lyngsat and print out a list of birds you want to program.
Just ask if you need more help.