I noticed last night that the problem TP's on G10 had about a 10% increase in signal stregth last night. THe other TP's were still at the same level. Has anyone else noticed this? It is raining today, but I still had decent levels this am.
Does G10's low TP's seem stronger?
- Thread starter iafirebuff
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 37
- Views 3K
- Status
all power level changes are in conjunction with Dish 121's TP when we are working with a smaller dish 
My 30" Winegard now shows 69-70 in the Coolsat when it normally is 65-66. Some days its 63 (which has pixelation in it)
My 30" Winegard now shows 69-70 in the Coolsat when it normally is 65-66. Some days its 63 (which has pixelation in it)
So as Dish's power changes, there is less interference, and then higher power on G10. Got it Thanks! PS - when are you resuming your tip of the day?
Thanks! PS - when are you resuming your tip of the day?correct. As Dish monkeys with their transponder power, the G10 transponder changes. Thats why when Dish had their TP off for a while, we got high signals
The bigger the dish, the less change you will see
The bigger the dish, the less change you will see
That is where I am leaning. Sadoun has the Motek SCG2100 (I think thats the model) for $69.99 and $11 shipping. Not too bad. I will sink a post into the ground in cement so that I can have easier access to it. What size post should I use with the 31" dish? THe dish mount now has support legs and on a post it would not. Any thoughts?
I think it's 2 or 2/14 inches, something like that. Someone will jump in with the exact info-I just wanted to say go for the motor-you won't be sorry!
THANKS guys! I will get 2" pipe, and some cement. I assume that the motor will fit right to the 2" pipe then? That should be nice and stable
iafirebuff said:THANKS guys! I will get 2" pipe, and some cement. I assume that the motor will fit right to the 2" pipe then? That should be nice and stable
Fill the pipe up full of cement too. Make sure you get all the air out when you do this.
Also you will need to flatten the end of the pipe so the pipe will not turn but also you want to make sure it won't lift up. Drill some holes through the pipe and run some bolts across it or you can do what I did:
1. Found an old footplate from a 18" inch dish mount. Drilled a hole in the bottom of my pole and put the foot plate on it and rotated it down as the actual foot of the pipe.
2. I put a rock about 2 inches tall in the bottom of my hole to keep the foot plate off the bottom of the hole. This will put the foot plate in the middle of the cement, making it impossible for the pole to turn or for the pole to be pulled out.
3. Put the pole in the hole and fill the pole with cement. I also took some small pieces of pipe and wedged them in the hole at angles to hold the pipe plumb and to act as rebar.
4. Do it big! The stronger you make it the better. You do not want to redo this project! So whatever ideas you have about making the hole a certain shape for better stability, do it. To an extent...more concrete is better.
Well my 33 in dish i put up Sunday doesn't quite cut it as 11800 V is around 64% Q and fades but the 11805 is 70- 87% with the occasional fade.I may have to look around for a 36 in. I guess the problem is trying to dig that signal out at 5 Deg on the horizon with the heat of the summer, its a log hop across the land before it gets to the atmosphere and beyond.
Dave
Dave
So Pete is it worth my while trying to get a larger dish to put there or will the noise just increase as well?
- Status
