Diseqc Switch question
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This is the way i been running mine for years with no problems.
My Diseqc is inside the house.
My Diseqc is inside the house.
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@ johnnynobody. Do it the way KE4EST says. The reason is both of your diagrams have the cable going outside to the SG2100 then back inside the house to the GBOX then back outside to the dishes. (you can't have a GBOX outside for obvious reasons) That is 2 extra runs of cable you don't want to have. Longer cable runs mean more loss of signal & less power for motors & often cause switching & lnbf problems.
Since my switch is indoors, the cable from the LNBF side of the SG2100 motor has to come back inside, connect to the common port of the switch and then cables back out to the LNBF's. The total length of the run is about 30 feet. Anyway, KE4EST config isn't working for me, I might have caused a cable problem to the C band dish since now I can't receive anything on it. And the horizontal polarity isn't working on the Ku - an existing problem anyway. I'm not sure of what my problem with the C band dish is since I noticed that my Birdog doesn't get a hit on the horizontal transponders on any sat despite trying a few different cables and while connecting it directly to the LNBF's. Since the C-band LNBF is brand new I doubt that it's a problem and it doesn't appear that it's a cabling issue. When I measure the voltages at the LNBF's I get the required 13/18 volts. Of course, that's open circuit voltage readings. I'll have to build a box that I can put inline at the LNBF so that I can check voltages under load. I tried a different FTA receiver with the same results.
I'll give this a try. This is option 2 from my diagrams. I was using option one from my diagrams that was working except for the horizontal polarity problem. I tried KE4EST's suggestion but something went wrong on the C-band connection.
Are you referring to the switch or the motor? I'm using a 1x2 22kHz switch (DMS International SW-21K) . I'm set up to use diseqc to operate the SG2100 and Gbox. I'm using an Azbox Ultra and I only see motor options of Diseqc 1.2 and USALS.
Uhh, won't this setup burn out the switch? My understanding is that the SG2100 needs more power than the switch can handle.
I have observed some brands of switches run for years without problems passing the higher motor current draws. Not all switches are capable of the repeated current surges.
If the setup Ke4est suggested won't work, or if your Ku motor doesn't like it that way, you could try like I did on one of my setups and use a F tee connector. Receiver to T connector, one leg to Gbox---Ku motor, the other leg to DISEqC switch---LNBs. It may not be quite the right way, but it seems like I get a bit more quality doing it this way, it works and my SG2100 Ku motor doesn't work very well in line with the GBox, DISEqC switches and LNBs for some reason, but it seems to work fine this way.
The SG2100 can be moved with both diseqc and USALS. USALS seems to be the better way to go but it appears that the alignment is more critical because you can't alter the azimuth with east/west jogs when using USALS in case the wind manages to move the dish slightly out of alignment. So I changed to diseqc 1.2.
I was wondering.... if it's OK to run a motor thru these then it seems that having to unplug the receiver from the wall outlet to connect/disconnect cables isn't necessary also.
Depends on the switch that you get. Some can handle current, some can't.
I know the EMP-centauri can, also the ones I have from DMSI can also pass current without issue.
Always!! Unplug the receiver if it does not have a physical switch on the back, when messing with switches.
I know the EMP-centauri can, also the ones I have from DMSI can also pass current without issue.
Always!! Unplug the receiver if it does not have a physical switch on the back, when messing with switches.
Too bad I can't get these switches locally rather than having to order them. If I could get them locally I wouldn't be too concerned about it. I guess the other option is to buy large quantities of these things - not to mention having a backup LNBF and receiver. Anyway, it's a real hassle when trying to troubleshoot issues when you have to keep turning the receiver on and off. The $100+ receiver may not like that either - not to mention the possible power surges that could destroy the switch and/or LNBF. Anyway, I think I may have destroyed a couple of switches - not sure if I have a spare somewhere (that's a problem with keeping spares around - spares that you may never need and are tossed somewhere). I usually end up ordering more stuff because I'm too lazy to go looking for stuff.
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