Coax Question??

[charlesrshell]

Should coax running from the dish antenna to the DPP 44 switch at the headend area be of different quality and color than what is used for the home distribution? I have read in several threads that the color should be black. Why is that? Thanks to all that respond.

 

[chadzx11]

color doesn't matter. It is what is inside that jacket that matters. TWC uses orange or blue cable here for drops out to the curb that have to be burried. I think that is just so people can see it and not trip over it. Dish's DNSC people run grey coax. That is how we can tell their installs apart from anybody else's. Most of us use black because it is easier to get and often cheaper, though I have used a reel of white that I special ordered for a gentleman who lived in an apartment.

 

[Mike500]

color doesn't matter. It is what is inside that jacket that matters. TWC uses orange or blue cable here for drops out to the curb that have to be burried. I think that is just so people can see it and not trip over it. Dish's DNSC people run grey coax. That is how we can tell their installs apart from anybody else's. Most of us use black because it is easier to get and often cheaper, though I have used a reel of white that I special ordered for a gentleman who lived in an apartment.

I agree.

I install high end systems and do mostlt specialty wall fish cabling. Most of the time, I install separate dbs and ota cables. I use different color cables to differentiate the two.

Orange is the universal agreed building codes color for identifying buried low voltage telecommunications cable. It is not intended for the sole purpose that it be laid on the ground for identifying a trip hazard.

FYI, red is for buried electrical service. Blue is for potable water. Yellow is for natural gas. Green or black is for waste lines. Purple is for non-potable or grey water used for irrigation.

If you ever saw lines painted on grass or the ground, the colors are used to mark the location of underground utlities lines. This is done to avoid damaging these lines, if any digging is anticipated. Usually, this service is free. If you call the marking service, they will come and mark it within 72 hours. If you dig, before 72 hours, after calling, and it was not marked, you will be charged for repairs of damaged lines. This can be costly.

 

[mikethedishguy]

Black cable ends to hold its color better and is less sensitive to UV. the white will turn pinkish tan over time and I find that the casing deterioates faster in strong UV.

 

[charlesrshell]

OK, thanks for the info. How about connectors? I use TnB Snap-N-Seal. Are they a good quality? I have noticed also from pics in the forums and other satellite dishs in my neighborhood that no one seems to use the weather protective boots for the connectors. I don't guess it is that big of deal. Any comments about that? How about the protective sealant for the connectors? Thanks again for your help.

 

[Mike500]

Black cable ends to hold its color better and is less sensitive to UV. the white will turn pinkish tan over time and I find that the casing deterioates faster in strong UV.

That was true years ago, when carbon black was added to the plastic matrix for UV protection.

Modern plastics chemistry has improved to a point that good UV protection could be had in any color. Cheap black cables degrade, but it doesn't show. If it does, it becomes a light brown or grey.

Some white cables will turn to a beige color. Some won't. It depends on the quality of the manufacturer, the UV inhibitor used, the filler material used and the amount coloring agent used. White cables use Titanium DiOxide as a coloring dye, as do most white paint. Some cheap paints yellow over time. Good paint doesn't.

 

[Mike500]

OK, thanks for the info. How about connectors? I use TnB Snap-N-Seal. Are they a good quality? I have noticed also from pics in the forums and other satellite dishs in my neighborhood that no one seems to use the weather protective boots for the connectors. I don't guess it is that big of deal. Any comments about that? How about the protective sealant for the connectors? Thanks again for your help.

There are two schools of thought on the use of plastic or rubber boots. I no longer use them.

You can almost never make them seal out moisture, since water vapor in the air travels past the boundary layer between the metal connector and the seal on the molecular lever based on the size of a water molecule. Any seal, unless one that has constant positive internal pressure will allow the ingress of water.

Rubber boots or seals will retain moisture more often than sealing it out.

The best weatherproofing is a self draining connector with drip loops. Place them horizontally so any moisture deposited will drain off naurally. Dab non hardening dielectric silicone grease on the dissmilar metal connection of the center conductor in the socket. Only a thin film is needed. Better yet, enclose all connections in a weatherproof enclosure.

 

[SimpleSimon]

Mike500 hits one out of the park - again! :up