Cementing a pole PERFECTLY vertically - HOW

[mchomicz]

Cementing a pole PERFECTLY vertically - HOW

Within a week or two I will be putting up a pole for my motorized FTA dish and I understand it’s crucial that the pole be as close to absolutely perfectly vertical as possible.

I was wondering if there is a “trick” to getting this right? Or if anybody has any pointers that will make the procedure easier?

Do I fill the hole with gravel or do I just pour in cement? What kind of cement to use? Where do I buy it (I live in the US - so I’m guessing Home Depot or Lowe’s). Should I fill the pole itself with cement for extra stability or do I live it hollow? Do I use boards or something else to support the pole while cement is drying or is it going to be thick enough such that once I get it as close to vertical as I can it will stay in place until cement is dry?

I’d very much appreciate any pointers, suggestions, best practices or tricks of the trade.

Thank you,
Michael

PS I do have a regular level, a 90 degree post level and an inclinometer.

 

[PSB]

Use a brick at the base of the hole to rest the pole on. Put a pin through the pole to stop rotation. Check for level all round every few minutes and correct.
Fill the pole with cement, I use rocks to keep the pole plumb and level.
The tools you have will work perfectly for this job.

 

[PopcornNMore]

Michael,

I usually dig a hole below the frost line and fill with a layer of stone. Then I drill holes in the pole about two feet apart at the bottom and slide rebar through to form an "X" shape. Place the pole into the hole and fill with a cement mixture of 3 part stone, 2 part sand and 1 part cement. Use wooden braces to keep the pole plumb until the cement hardens.

Dave

 

[mchomicz]

Then I drill holes in the pole about two feet apart at the bottom and slide rebar through to form an "X" shape.

How long of a rebar do you place in each of the two holes? I assume this is to prevent rotation (as Pete suggested)? Is this a correct assumption?

Also – should I assume that the pole itself sits INSIDE the layer of stone and not on top of it?

Thank you,
Michael

 

[charper1]

if you are in a high wind area or plan on a large/heavy dish i would also recommend a few dollars more for the high-tensile strength concrete

 

[snathanb]

I've had good success with 3 different pole mounts using the specially-formulated fast-drying version of quickcrete.... within about 30 minutes the pole is not going to move any more. It does not require any mixing, either. It's a little more expensive, but well worth it, it my opinion.

 

[PipeDream]

I usually just use a big hammer to beat the pole out-of-round on the end that sets in the concrete to keep it from ever turning. But however you get it to hold plumb while it sets, a bubble level never seems to get it quite as "Exact" as using a Johnson Magnetic Angle Finder. Any bubble is about impossible to read minutely. The Johnson will allow more accuracy.

 

[Rick in MD]

Where can you pick up one of those? Home Depot/Lowes?

Thanks

 

[Mike500]

I don't know with the big deal is. As an old c-band installer and now a dbs installer, I've installed nearly a thousand poles.

No drilling for rebar is necessary. Use a cheap $1 muffler clamp from the auto parts store.

The steel post rusts out on the inside like a car body, if water is not allowed to drain. Make sure that it is not sealed on the bottom with concrete or anything else. Setting it in gravel will assure this, as well as putting a few inches of gravel in the hole before filling it with concrete.

There is no need to use special fast hardening concrete. Just use regular concrete mix. Make it just moist enough just to wet the entire mixture. Pack it around the hole and compress it by hammering it with a sledge on piece of plywood placed on the concrete.

The best level is the x-y type fence post level like the PostRite level shown here;

http://www.kapro.com/products/Levels/Post/Postrite340.html

It is $6 at Sears. Somilar levels like this are sold at Home Depot or Lowes.

 

[mchomicz]

Johnson Magnetic Angle Finder - $8.96 at Home Depot. You can get slightly less expensive no-name stuff - and probably just as good on ebay. Some online satellite equipment retailers also sell them.

Michael

 

[snathanb]

I don't know with the big deal is. As an old c-band installer and now a dbs installer, I've installed nearly a thousand poles.
.

That's probably why you don't know what the big deal is. For someone who has never done it before and wants it done well, I'm sure it is a big deal. How about offering advice without the attitude?

 

[Rick in MD]

Johnson Magnetic Angle Finder - $8.96 at Home Depot. You can get slightly less expensive no-name stuff - and probably just as good on ebay. Some online satellite equipment retailers also sell them.

Michael

Thanks. Getting ready to move mine from the attachment on the house to a pole in the ground.

 

[PilotS77]

What would be the advantage of such move? It seems to me that attached to the house is a preferable situation.

 

[Rick in MD]

With a nearly 1 Meter dish, that is a lot of wind loading on the house, that I do not care to have, also the ease of adjustment becomes a reality. And lastly, the mount that was included with the Dish wasn't all that great. (Mild Steel, that I have bent already)