OTHER Bad Gbox?

ZetaMale

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Aug 2, 2009
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Not sure about your G-box issue, is it sensing counts? What if you connect a actuator motor not connected to a dish all by itself? Does that work?

Rick just got in a whole shipment of V-Box movers: PR1200
 
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The transformer died. It was very hot when I went to take it out. I replaced it with an oversized, electrically and physically, transformer. So it's an open case (Sadoun) Gbox now with a transformer that supplies 5 A on the secondary. I suppose I can move it to a new enclosure. I'll probably buy a new Vbox for a spare. I was working on moving a Powermax Vbox-X to a new enclosure and I might finish that project also. The transformer for the Powermax died also. Finding an equivalent transformer that'll fit in the original enclosure is problematic - never could find one. One of my actuators will take up to 6.5 amps. I guess that means that I should need a dish mover that'll be able to provide 10 amps. I don't know what the minimum power requirements would be for these actuators.
 
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Not sure about your G-box issue, is it sensing counts? What if you connect a actuator motor not connected to a dish all by itself? Does that work?

Rick just got in a whole shipment of V-Box movers: PR1200
I ordered one on Monday and I still haven't received any shipping info but I did get an e-mail with the paid invoice. If they're in stock, then why hasn't it shipped yet? As near as I can tell, there's no way to track the order on his website. I really hate having to call a vendor.
 
The transformer died. It was very hot when I went to take it out. I replaced it with an oversized, electrically and physically, transformer. So it's an open case (Sadoun) Gbox now with a transformer that supplies 5 A on the secondary. I suppose I can move it to a new enclosure. I'll probably buy a new Vbox for a spare. I was working on moving a Powermax Vbox-X to a new enclosure and I might finish that project also. The transformer for the Powermax died also. Finding an equivalent transformer that'll fit in the original enclosure is problematic - never could find one. One of my actuators will take up to 6.5 amps. I guess that means that I should need a dish mover that'll be able to provide 10 amps. I don't know what the minimum power requirements would be for these actuators.
Heh, I got the Gbox working but it died after a days use. Turns out that a diode shorted. It looks like it's for the 36VDC circuit. I guess that 2A diode had more than that pulled through it. I'm going to replace all 4 diodes with 10A diodes. I hope the leads will go through the circuit board holes. If not, I have a less than elegant workaround in mind.
 
I ordered one on Monday and I still haven't received any shipping info but I did get an e-mail with the paid invoice. If they're in stock, then why hasn't it shipped yet? As near as I can tell, there's no way to track the order on his website. I really hate having to call a vendor.
He's a one-man show, but you shouldn't have any worries buying from him. I've done so multiple times over some years, and never had a problem. He also checks them out individually after taking them out of the shipping crate, and before shipping.
 
Heh, I got the Gbox working but it died after a days use. Turns out that a diode shorted. It looks like it's for the 36VDC circuit. I guess that 2A diode had more than that pulled through it. I'm going to replace all 4 diodes with 10A diodes. I hope the leads will go through the circuit board holes. If not, I have a less than elegant workaround in mind.
I've replaced these with the Radio Shack standard 6 amp ones they used to sell, so those at least work for sure. You might have to bridge some of the circuit board traces with some added wire, because the traces might lift while unsoldering/resoldering. Oh, do NOT use one of the old soldering guns, that is the transformer style, or you may fry the ic chips due to the ac magnetic field those put out.
 
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I've replaced these with the Radio Shack standard 6 amp ones they used to sell, so those at least work for sure. You might have to bridge some of the circuit board traces with some added wire, because the traces might lift while unsoldering/resoldering. Oh, do NOT use one of the old soldering guns, that is the transformer style, or you may fry the ic chips due to the ac magnetic field those put out.
It's an adjustable temperature Weller EC2000 soldering iron. I used similar soldering stations at work, also, so I'm not too concerned about damage. But, even after 40 years in the electronics industry, desoldering can be a challenge. :biggrin Too bad there aren't any Radio Shacks around anymore. I hate having to wait for orders!
 
So far, the only issue I have with the PR1200 is that the power cord is too short.
 
Manhattan does the same thing with their STB's. Charge me another 50 cents and add another 2 feet to the cord.
How about it! We got a new stand mixer recently and the cord is barely two feet long. Actually had to use an extension cord so I could put it where I needed to on the counter. :(
 
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Maybe I'm doing something wrong but when I press west on the PR1200 remote the dish moves west but when I push on the west button on the box the dish moves east.
 
Maybe I'm doing something wrong but when I press west on the PR1200 remote the dish moves west but when I push on the west button on the box the dish moves east.
Well if you look close, the buttons on the box are not labeled east and west. But on the circuit board the buttons are labeled and yes the west button is on the left. Definitely not intuitive.
 
Well if you look close, the buttons on the box are not labeled east and west. But on the circuit board the buttons are labeled and yes the west button is on the left. Definitely not intuitive.
I kinda figured as much and I thought about voiding the warranty by opening the box to see if the cables can be easily reversed. But the manual I have says that the west button is on the right, next to the power button. As I have already mentioned, that button moves the dish east instead of west. Not a real big deal. Well, I guess it's a big deal because it has me growling.
 
I kinda figured as much and I thought about voiding the warranty by opening the box to see if the cables can be easily reversed
There are no cables to reverse. The buttons on the case push directly on the switches attached to the circuit board. Here is a picture of the board with the switches removed and cables installed for a custom build.
 

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Nice looking build. I try not to do stuff like this since it costs money and quite a bit of time to do these mods.
 
Nice looking build. I try not to do stuff like this since it costs money and quite a bit of time to do these mods.
When it's a hobby you don't think about the time investment. And I'm sure I have less invested in my custom build than you paid for the PR1200. ;) Most all the pieces I used were repurposed from discarded boxes. A desoldering gun was one of the best tools I bought. :)
 

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