Amiko D-8/1 question

[FTA4PA]

I finally have some time to work on my dish farm again after a busy spring and summer. I currently have two dishes - a motorized c band and a motorized ku running through an Ecoda 22Khz switch. I am looking to expand with a stationary ku dish and two c band dishes (1 stationary, 1 motorized). I am considering replacing the 22Khz switch with an Amiko D-8/1 Diseqc switch. I know there won't be an issue with the additional c band dishes or the stationary ku but just want to verify that the Amiko D-8/1 can pass enough power for my existing Stab HH100 motor plus a ku lnb (either a Titanium PLL-1KS or a Maverick MK1-PLL). The Stab HH100 has maximum power listed as 350ma. (http://www.stab-italia.com/prodotto.php?cod=F205050) Thanks!

 

[KE4EST]

The max power pass rating on the D-8/1 is 500mA's. So you would be pushing it.
I would put the switch after the HH100.

 

[Magic Static]

The general consensus would say you could do that. But FTA setups are like snowflakes, no two are identical. What works for some is problematic for others. The switch is cheap enough and with a growing hobby you will eventually use it even if not for what you intended. So try it out I have run motors through 1 x 8 switches successfully.

 

[FTA4PA]

The max power pass rating on the D-8/1 is 500mA's. So you would be pushing it.
I would put the switch after the HH100.

A bit more detail. Here is my current configuration:

Using the above setup, when I move my c band dish (using Diseqc 1.2) the motorized ku (using USALS) moves as well (when I move the ku the c stays put). It's never caused any issues (other than extra wear on the HH100 ). I was hoping that if I used the Amiko D-8/1 and put the Stab HH100 + ku lnb on one of it's ports this would stop. The figure I mentioned above (350ma) is the maximum draw. Stab also gives a figure of 190ma work absorption (assume that means the actual running current once the surge current of 350ma for start up has subsided?). I'm willing to give it a try even if it pushes the D-8/1 near it's limit. Would this solve the issue?

 

[Titanium]

The fix is as simple as performing a factory reset on the Stab to clear the saved DiSEqC 1.2 positions.

 

[FTA4PA]

The fix is as simple as performing a factory reset on the Stab to clear the saved DiSEqC 1.2 positions.

So that would fix the issue for my current two dish setup (22Khz)? How do you factory reset the HH100? There are no buttons on it.

When I'm ready to add the other dishes I mentioned in post 1, will the Amiko D-8/1 set up I mentioned work if the surge current is 350ma but operating current is only 190ma?

 

[Titanium]

So that would fix the issue for my current two dish setup (22Khz)? How do you factory reset the HH100? There are no buttons on it.

Stab has their custom install device for their motors, but many STB models also have the ability to clear and reset all saved positions in the DiSEqC 1.2 install menu.

When I'm ready to add the other dishes I mentioned in post 1, will the Amiko D-8/1 set up I mentioned work if the surge current is 350ma but operating current is only 190ma?

Pushing your luck, but it may work. Definately would shorten the life expectancy. Remember to add the maximum current draw of the motor to the LNBF maximum current draw to get the total current requirement. Switches are not designed for repeated switching under maximum load and as it was pointed out, it would be best to install a switch after the motor.

 

[FTA4PA]

The fix is as simple as performing a factory reset on the Stab to clear the saved DiSEqC 1.2 positions.

I see Go To Reference in the Amiko menus. Would that be what I'm looking for? If so, should the Vbox7 be disconnected before issuing the command?

Pushing your luck, but it may work. Definately would shorten the life expectancy. Remember to add the maximum current draw of the motor to the LNBF maximum current draw to get the total current requirement. Switches are not designed for repeated switching under maximum load and as it was pointed out, it would be best to install a switch after the motor.

How about Receiver > 1st Vbox7 > 2nd Vbox7 > Stab HH100 > Amiko D-8/1 > LNBs for (2) motorized c dishes, (1) stationary c dish, (1) motorized ku dish and (1) stationary ku dish? Would that work or do I need something else?

 

[Titanium]

I just checked and the mini HD SE does not have the DiSEqC 1.2 motor reset function. An example of a reset device is the Stab MP01. Maybe someone can share the specific DiSeqC command as it could also be generated by most any PCI(e) card or USB tuner. I used the Fortec Star Lifetime Ultra for years and seem to remember working on incorporating the function in the micro HD. I really don't recall if it was implemented and not going to nuke a bench STB and controller positions right now. I'll put it on my bucket list... LOL!!! Anyone? does the micro HD Reset to 0 reset only the STB DiSEqC 1.2 positions or also the connected controller/motor?

Since the G/V-box draw is negligible, but the pass-through satellite signal losses add up quickly, I probably wouldn't use the flow that you describe. Guessing that the loss would add up to over 8dB? Maybe a better flow instead: STB>>> HH100>>> DiSEqC switch>>> controllers/LNBs

 

[FTA4PA]

I just checked and the mini HD SE does not have the DiSEqC 1.2 motor reset function. An example of a reset device is the Stab MP01. Maybe someone can share the specific DiSeqC command as it could also be generated by most any PCI(e) card or USB tuner. I used the Fortec Star Lifetime Ultra for years and seem to remember working on incorporating the function in the micro HD. I really don't recall if it was implemented and not going to nuke a bench STB and controller positions right now. I'll put it on my bucket list... LOL!!! Anyone? does the micro HD Reset to 0 reset only the STB DiSEqC 1.2 positions or also the connected controller/motor?

Looks like I'm outta luck on resetting it for now then. Guess I'll just focus on getting the other dishes installed and active. Now on to that....

Since the G/V-box draw is negligible, but the pass-through satellite signal losses add up quickly, I probably wouldn't use the flow that you describe. Guessing that the loss would add up to over 8dB? Maybe a better flow instead: STB>>> HH100>>> DiSEqC switch>>> controllers/LNBs

That's probably not gonna work for me as all my dishes are about 140-150 feet from the house to clear the trees on the west side of our property. If I go from the receiver to the HH100 and then back to the Vbox7 controllers in the house and then back down to the lnbs I'm looking at around 420-450 of coax. I'm guessing that would probably introduce quite a bit of signal loss as well?

 

[Titanium]

KE4EST and I were PMing and he mentioned this thread and something that I also have suggested in the past. A 2x1 quality splitter.

STB>>> splitter. One leg of the splitter goes to the loop-through connected controllers, the other leg to the HH100 then to the switch and LNBs.

That will save more than a few dBs in coax loss!

 

[KE4EST]

Thanks for posting was busy and trying to post in the sky is falling thread.

 

[FTA4PA]

KE4EST and I were PMing and he mentioned this thread and something that I also have suggested in the past. A 2x1 quality splitter.

STB>>> splitter. One leg of the splitter goes to the loop-through connected controllers, the other leg to the HH100 then to the switch and LNBs.

That will save more than a few dBs in coax loss!

That sounds great! So, if I'm understanding correctly, it would look something like this?

Are we talking about just a high quality splitter like is used to split a tv signal into two or is this something else? Either way, which would you recommend?

 

[KE4EST]

Something like this:
Amazon product ASIN B011DW6NUE

 

[fred555]

I know my eyesight is bad but I see nothing. F5 F5 F5

 

[KE4EST]

I see it. Try Ctrl + F5

 

[. Raine]

I can see it, a Amazon link/picture.

 

[fred555]

Whoops, adblock was on. I was PMing one day and an ad appeared smack dab in the middle of what I was trying to type. I usually leave it off here but that got me PO'd.

 

[FTA4PA]

Something like this:
Amazon product ASIN B011DW6NUE

Thanks for the link. Just to confirm, my drawing in post 13 is the correct way to connect things then?

 

[KE4EST]

Just to confirm, my drawing in post 13 is the correct way to connect things then?

Yes, that will work.