Adding DirecTV to detached garage

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JCunningham

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Sep 17, 2013
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Illinois
?Newby here, looking for some advice on trying to install directv into my mancave, aka my detached garage located about 45 feet behind my house. I already tried running a cable from the switch outside of my house to the garage but the box could not find a signal. The current setup is as follows: slimline HD dish with one transponder, with a cable leading from it to the switch outside my house, and only one cable right now, leading into my basement, then into an inline power thing (Plugs into the wall, then a cable from the switch outside enters it and another separate coax cable leading out of it into just a single HD DVR). I have another HD DVR receiver I want to add to the garage, so what is the easiest way I can hook it up? Thanks in advance for any advice/help!
 
:welcome to Satelliteguys JCunningham!

Just to get the terms correct, you have a swm3 lnb, a splitter, and power inserter. You should be able to connect a cable to the splitter and simply add an additional receiver/dvr, so something isn't right. 45 ft isn't so far that the signal would degrade too much to use. I'm a bit confused on how everything is connected. You have one cable from the dish going to a splitter, then one cable from the splitter into the basement where it connects to the power inserter. Then there is another cable from the splitter to the dvr. Is this correct? The power inserter should be on the output of the splitter that is marked "power passing" or something like that. Did you check the connections of the new cable you are adding to be sure they are good? Did you connect to the back of the dvr where it is marked "swm"? Do you get any signal at all on any satellites?
 
I suspect that the garage is considerably further than 45' from the LNB assembly as the cable lays but I doubt that's the problem here. It should be good for up to 75' from the LNB to the receiver IIRC.

I also suspect that the "switch" outside is actually a grounding block. It is important not to guess about what each item is as you'll frequently be wrong and confuse the daylights out of many -- most notably yourself.

As it is, the TS probably connected to the unused side of the grounding block (believing it was some sort of multiswitch) and that's why there is no signal. The output of the grounding block that currently goes to the basement needs to go to a shorty cable and then to a two-way green label splitter with the power passing side reconnected to the coax going to the basement. The remaining output of the green-label splitter then goes to the garage.
 
I suspect that the garage is considerably further than 45' from the LNB assembly as the cable lays but I doubt that's the problem here. It should be good for up to 75' from the LNB to the receiver IIRC.

I also suspect that the "switch" outside is actually a grounding block. It is important not to guess about what each item is as you'll frequently be wrong and confuse the daylights out of many -- most notably yourself.

As it is, the TS probably connected to the unused side of the grounding block (believing it was some sort of multiswitch) and that's why there is no signal. The output of the grounding block that currently goes to the basement needs to go to a shorty cable and then to a two-way green label splitter with the power passing side reconnected to the coax going to the basement. The remaining output of the green-label splitter then goes to the garage.
Incorrect. I was not confusing the splitter for a grounding block. I referred to it as a switch, as it's the same thing as a network switch but for rg6 cables. The garage is actually 43 feet from the house, measured on multiple occasions.
:welcome to Satelliteguys JCunningham!

Just to get the terms correct, you have a swm3 lnb, a splitter, and power inserter. You should be able to connect a cable to the splitter and simply add an additional receiver/dvr, so something isn't right. 45 ft isn't so far that the signal would degrade too much to use. I'm a bit confused on how everything is connected. You have one cable from the dish going to a splitter, then one cable from the splitter into the basement where it connects to the power inserter. Then there is another cable from the splitter to the dvr. Is this correct? The power inserter should be on the output of the splitter that is marked "power passing" or something like that. Did you check the connections of the new cable you are adding to be sure they are good? Did you connect to the back of the dvr where it is marked "swm"? Do you get any signal at all on any satellites?
Thank you for giving me the correct terms! Mine is hooked up a little differently than you described. The wire from my dish goes into the splitter where it says power pass out, then a wire outputs from the swm power pass into the basement, which then goes into the power inserter, then into the receiver.
 
These little dishes are designed to be flexible in their location.

Consider a second dish for the garage. The receiver is still on your account...you are out the cost of a dish. Line of sight might be an issue.

Joe
 
Incorrect. I was not confusing the splitter for a grounding block. I referred to it as a switch, as it's the same thing as a network switch but for rg6 cables. The garage is actually 43 feet from the house, measured on multiple occasions.

Thank you for giving me the correct terms! Mine is hooked up a little differently than you described. The wire from my dish goes into the splitter where it says power pass out, then a wire outputs from the swm power pass into the basement, which then goes into the power inserter, then into the receiver.

Sounds like your set up IS correct, the coax you connected goes to the switch with the Bypass listed, on a different term.
If you have run a cable from that point to the garage and the recvr in the garage Is a SWM capable recvr, the recvr should have auto detected the SWM set up.

What recvr are you trying to use in the garage?
Do you have working service in the house and what recvrs ?
 
I never considered that the receiver might not be swm capable. I'll bet that's it. What's the model number of the receiver you are trying to add?
 
Currently on the account I have two HD DVRs and two SD boxes. The models I am using are HR24s if memory serves correctly. Both work well in the house, but not in the garage. What output in the splitter should be used for running another cable for t.v.? There's two hookups dealing with power pass, and the rest are just outputs. The cable I used did pass a continuity test also. Any way Ican have my service in the man-cave by this Sundays Chicago and Pittsburgh game?
 
Heres the splitter. The "In From SWM" port is the cord running from the dish. The "Power Pass Out" is running into the basement into the power inserter, then directly out of that into the receiver. The other 3 outputs are currently run to other rooms, but are currently unused due to remodeling.
 

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Aside from the fact that that particular model splitter is older than dirt in the terms of swm technology, everything looks fine, what I suspect you are doing wrong is running the line to the garage into the wrong port of the splitter. You MUST leave the power passing port running to the basement, and into the power inserter and to that receiver alone. It must stay connected as is. You can then use any of the other three to run to the garage. Or swap the splitter to an 8way and keep everything hooked up. Then make sure the receiver is indeed swm compatible. If it is a hd dvr combo, it must be model HR2X. The last number doesnt matter, as long as it starts with a 2. Hook your line up to the sat1 port on the dvr. When you turn on the dvr for the first time, if it was not origionally set up for swm, it must be reconfigured. Let it start up and then when you get to step 2 of 2, its going to freeze at 0%. Hit exit on your remote, then menu. Go to repeat sat setup, and hit dash or the up/down button on the front panel to proceed. The setup should be either 17 (slimline3s) or 18 (slimline5s) and it should autodetect the proper one as well. Hit continue and you should be in busisness.

Side edit, if one of the boxes is being moved from a room where it is currently working to the garage it should not need to be reconfigured.
 
I'm oversimplifying as usual but the solution seems quite easy. You say you are not using the other 3 boxes due to remodeling.

1 Find out which lug goes to room B ( IE: take each one off until you lose signal in room B) which is not being used.

2 Run your new cable from Room B's lug to the "man cave"

3 Take the box you are not using in room B and put it in the garage making sure you hook it up the exact same way it was hooked up when it was working in room b

4 sit back and enjoy the game.
 
I Think I found the issue! I ran the cable back to the garage, and tried again using suggested methods posted here, but to no avail. So I tested continuity on the cord again and there was none. So I removed the cable and inspected for breaks or anything that could have damaged it. The run consists of two cords tied into one with the equivalent of a butt connector for coax. I took it apart and tested each run of cable, and they both were good. The piece used to connect the two cables was bad. I picked up a new one and am setting it all up again right now. I'll let you all know if it works!
 
I'm oversimplifying as usual but the solution seems quite easy. You say you are not using the other 3 boxes due to remodeling.

1 Find out which lug goes to room B ( IE: take each one off until you lose signal in room B) which is not being used.

2 Run your new cable from Room B's lug to the "man cave"

3 Take the box you are not using in room B and put it in the garage making sure you hook it up the exact same way it was hooked up when it was working in room b

4 sit back and enjoy the game.

This was going to be my next post ...

Thank You RL !

Op, let us know what happens when you do what RL posted.
 
I Think I found the issue! I ran the cable back to the garage, and tried again using suggested methods posted here, but to no avail. So I tested continuity on the cord again and there was none. So I removed the cable and inspected for breaks or anything that could have damaged it. The run consists of two cords tied into one with the equivalent of a butt connector for coax. I took it apart and tested each run of cable, and they both were good. The piece used to connect the two cables was bad. I picked up a new one and am setting it all up again right now. I'll let you all know if it works!

You are getting close,
Inspect both cable fittings, replace the barrel connector, and test. If it works AND you intend to put this underground do this: get a three inch long piece of garden hose or3/4 " pvc pipe. Disconnect a fitting from the connector and slide the hose or pipe on the cable. Reconnect everything and slide the pipe over the fittings and connector. Pump the hose (or pipe) full of caulking. The silicone caulk that is used to seal holes is fine. Pump until you are sure the whole thing is full.

Joe
 
Now the cable box is showing all of the tv shows names and such (in the guide), but keeps giving an authorization code and showing a black screen. It would not re-authorize online or over the phone, so DirecTV customer service has determined the dish needs re-aligned, or there are box/cable faults (basically shooting in the dark). Either way, I found out I have some protection plan, so I have a technician coming on Friday to fix it, free of charge. They said if it comes down to it, they'll replace everything from the dish to the receivers until the problem is resolved, but they said they think it is most likely a dish/cable fault. Guess well see on Friday.
 
Now the cable box is showing all of the tv shows names and such (in the guide), but keeps giving an authorization code and showing a black screen. It would not re-authorize online or over the phone, so DirecTV customer service has determined the dish needs re-aligned, or there are box/cable faults (basically shooting in the dark). Either way, I found out I have some protection plan, so I have a technician coming on Friday to fix it, free of charge. They said if it comes down to it, they'll replace everything from the dish to the receivers until the problem is resolved, but they said they think it is most likely a dish/cable fault. Guess well see on Friday.

Do what Chip suggests while he is there....replace that cable run.

Joe
 
Directv has come out twice now, and the problem is mostly resolved, although there are still some issues. When the tech first came out, he ran the normal tests and such, and determined that there was an issue with the dish LNB. After he replaced it and re aligned the dish, the receiver still showed poor reception but other receivers in the house showed stunning reception. He then inspected the cable run to the garage with a fancy little tool and found that the copper center wire was good, although the copper wire was not used for data transmission. Which is why continuity was good. He determined that the white data transferring portion of the cable was bad, and replaced the cable run. Instantly started working flawlessly. Great picture, and reception.

Now that it's fixed, the receiver is now showing an error (code 920) saying that the dish hasn't received guide info from the dish in over a certain time period ranging from 1 to 8 hours. The receivers in the house showed the guide, so it was determined the receiver is bad too. He comes back out again today to replace all receivers with newer models free of charge. But in the end, I got to see the Chicago and Pittsburgh game with the guys in the man cave. Great game, too.

Best part about it, this whole ordeal has only cost me $10, which I tipped the tech with for his outstanding customer service. For the trouble he also gave me a free wifi connectivity dock for the garage receiver so I wouldn't have to run a cat6 cable. Outstanding customer service on D*s' part!
 
Sounds like you are all set then. Glad to hear it all worked out.
 
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Pantel tv code that will work with Direct TV.

got my install today

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