Actuator disassembly

[RT-Cat]

I decided to take a look at the old Thomson/Saginaw actuator that I have around here. The internet can sometimes surprise you without any information on a subject where other times you find 50 videos on the subject. Can't find what I am looking for. The round plastic, I'll call it the magnet holder, in the picture is the current problem. How is it connected to the shaft? The cast part it is in will only separate about 3/8 of an inch and does not give a view on how it is connected or how to remove it. Any thoughts from members that have taken one of these apart?

 

[Magic Static]

The metal retainer prys off and then it's jut a press fit. here is a picture of the parts removed.
http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/attachments/dsc02039-jpg.119936/

 

[RT-Cat]

I thought about that retainer but just was not sure.
Thanks for the info.
.
A little update: There is more than enough grease inside to make all moving parts happy. The seals must have done their job over the years it was in operation. It moves with a 12 volt car battery connected but not very fast. I think I read somewhere it need 24 or 36 volts. Is that a correct thought?

 

[Magic Static]

I thought about that retainer but just was not sure.
Thanks for the info.
.
A little update: There is more than enough grease inside to make all moving parts happy. The seals must have done their job over the years it was in operation. It moves with a 12 volt car battery connected but not very fast. I think I read somewhere it need 24 or 36 volts. Is that a correct thought?

Should be 36 volts, yes

 

[RT-Cat]

Thanks, MS.

 

[RT-Cat]

I took careful measurements today on the wire distance to the dish if I decide to install this unit. Comes out to 185 feet. So with that distance what do the pros here think the gauge of the motor and sensor wires should be?

 

[Titanium]

Not that long of run. Sensor and/or servo each with 18g stranded plus shield. Motor 14g stranded. Remember to bond the dish post/ground back to structure ground to avoid voltage potentials.

 

[RT-Cat]

Thanks Brian for the info.

 

[BigRyan]

While we are on the subject, I have a question. Is it ok to screw the actuator in or out by hand? Does this hurt anything really?

 

[Magic Static]

While we are on the subject, I have a question. Is it ok to screw the actuator in or out by hand? Does this hurt anything really?

Makes the hardware limits out of adjustment if you don't screw it back in/out before using.

 

[waylew]

While we are on the subject, I have a question. Is it ok to screw the actuator in or out by hand? Does this hurt anything really?

Shouldn't really hurt anything but it will screw up the limit switches if you don't return to the same place or retime the switches.
dammit Magic you beat me to it

 

[RT-Cat]

Shouldn't really hurt anything but it will screw up the limit switches if you don't return to the same place or retime the switches.

The unit on the Winegard has switches you can see, but the one I have taken apart and put mostly back together only has a terminal board, the white magnet wheel, and the sensor. Looks to me that this one for limits would only be set in the controller. Unless there is something hidden some where.

 

[bpalone]

Might of been one that used external switches of one form or another for the limit switches. I had one (a different make) that used a mechanical switch mounted on the tube for the retracted limit and a mercury switch for the extended limit. Of course that was back when we were still chiseling notes and messages into a rock.

If it still works, you could probably conjure up something similar, just be sure to use switches that can handle the current load.

 

[waylew]

They may be hidden deeper in the housing but don't know,never had one of those that far apart.

I coulda swore I posted this last nite but still in the reply box this morning,anyway posted now,not that it's a whole lot of help.

 

[Magic Static]

I have a couple old "Hammer Blow" actuators that have potentiometers for sensors and the Limit Switches were deeper into the housing and not visible just removing the cover.

 

[RT-Cat]

This one I had completely apart and no hidden switches. It really does not make any difference if I rely on the controller E/W limit settings since it will only be moving between 97 and 107 at the most.

 

[Titanium]

I personally would retrofit limiters rather than risk damage to an actuator, mount or dish. A few bucks and few hours will save a lot of money and grief!

 

[KE4EST]

I personally would retrofit limiters rather than risk damage to an actuator, mount or dish. A few bucks and few hours will save a lot of money and grief!

I so agree with this. I flopped a dish in 2005 by doing the same thing, and messed up an actuator. I thought I don't need the hardware limits I will just pay attention, and not have to worry about it. About six months later, I was so mad at myself, for not taking the time to fix the limit switch that was in place, just broke loose from the mount. I really had no excuse, since I had the switches in mine. It would of took me only a few minutes to fix.

 

[RT-Cat]

I personally would retrofit limiters rather than risk damage to an actuator, mount or dish. A few bucks and few hours will save a lot of money and grief!

Well, OK, but with the cover off and this inside, how/where would you hook up anything?

 

[Titanium]

If there is no step down gear in the housing, M1/M2 motor power source interrupt switches can be attached to the arm or even on the mount. I have done both.

Simple power interrupt switching can be set with normally open spring loaded switches that have the plungers riding on the extending tube then drop into holes drilled into the actuator jack arm. Alternate location would be mounting normally closed switches on the polar mount mount with stop screws that depress the switches plungers on the East and West limits.