Where can i buy actuator cable? Its 4 wire underground cable.. What would it be called.. I cannot find it anywhere online.
Actuator Cable
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I would like to run RG11 to the dish.. How many wires do i need to connect the actuator? It seems like the link above is overkill, or more then needed.
Gotcband(wallyhts) has 100 ft of commscope 8136 for 104
Look here http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=281212517224 &alt=web
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Sprinkler system cable from Home Depot or Lowes. Lowes sells it for 33 cents a foot so you only buy as much as you need.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_162127-295-49276945_4294612452__?productId=50142294&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
http://www.lowes.com/pd_162127-295-49276945_4294612452__?productId=50142294&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=
Polorotor is the servo motor that changes polarity on feedhorn systems that use separate LNB. If you are using a LNBF, the polarity is controlled by 13/18VDC voltage and no servo is necessary. You may want to run the wiring in case you want to upgrade to a Corotor in the future.
Use 12-14 gauge (recommend stranded) for motor and 16-20 gauge (recommend stranded) with shielded for the sensor and polarity servo wires. Larger gauge for longer runs, larger motors and heavier dishes. Do not use unshielded wire. You may experience sensor and servo control issues using sensor and servo control wires that are not shielded with the drain wire connected only on one end (usually the motor side).
Folks are going to suggest cheap 18-20 gauge wire without shield, but that is just asking for problems. The amount of power reaching the dish motor will be limited and having all wired wrapped around each other without shielding, the motor noise can interfere with the servo and sensor. You can try to save a few dollars and install too small gauge and unshielded wire, but why risk having to buy and install the right wiring if you discover your system needs it?
Use 12-14 gauge (recommend stranded) for motor and 16-20 gauge (recommend stranded) with shielded for the sensor and polarity servo wires. Larger gauge for longer runs, larger motors and heavier dishes. Do not use unshielded wire. You may experience sensor and servo control issues using sensor and servo control wires that are not shielded with the drain wire connected only on one end (usually the motor side).
Folks are going to suggest cheap 18-20 gauge wire without shield, but that is just asking for problems. The amount of power reaching the dish motor will be limited and having all wired wrapped around each other without shielding, the motor noise can interfere with the servo and sensor. You can try to save a few dollars and install too small gauge and unshielded wire, but why risk having to buy and install the right wiring if you discover your system needs it?
Which is the problem I am experiencing right now because I used ethernet wire to control my motor and sensor. Now because I put the wrong stuff underground and replacing it is big trouble, I have to do some really stupid things to make do. Eventually I will have to replace it, it has to be. But when I do, I know what to use and I’m making sure it will be easier to access.
Listen to Brian, he knows what he’s talking about. Don’t be a cheapskate, do it right the first time and save yourself the frustration and expense of doing it all over again later on.
Listen to Brian, he knows what he’s talking about. Don’t be a cheapskate, do it right the first time and save yourself the frustration and expense of doing it all over again later on.
Excellent.. Thank you very much for all the info. I have scored a Cband dish from someones backyard! Ill post info on that on a separate thread...
You did that on purpose!!!Okay, ill bite, whats a Corotor?!!?!!
A work and trouble saving device of yesteryear. I wish I had one.
While I would never recommend Ethernet cable I have never had a problem with sprinkler cable nor have I ever heard of anyone having a problem with sprinkler cable. Too often people who lack actual experience like to make recommendations based on what they think may happen but it's your money and your system so do what you believe is best.
Having performed thousands of service calls and installs on C-band systems for almost 30 years, my recommendations are based on real world experience.
Using unshielded wire groups for sensor circuits and servo control do cause problems as discussed in past threads. Running motor power, sensor and servo control through the same wire group is very problematic.
If you opt to use unshielded wire, snake the unshielded cables in a repeating s pattern (every foot or so) over any other lines carrying power. This will help minimize the rf noise from being picked up by the sensor and control circuits.
No, I don't sell cable...
Using unshielded wire groups for sensor circuits and servo control do cause problems as discussed in past threads. Running motor power, sensor and servo control through the same wire group is very problematic.
If you opt to use unshielded wire, snake the unshielded cables in a repeating s pattern (every foot or so) over any other lines carrying power. This will help minimize the rf noise from being picked up by the sensor and control circuits.
No, I don't sell cable...
A corotor is like a polorotor but you get c band and ku band on the same feedhorn think of a corotor like a c/ku lnbfYou did that on purpose!!!
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After getting passed looking at that jeep that I wish I had
it seems your to look like your cband is pretty close to your house like 15 foot is that about right? How far is your cband run 30 to 35 feet?Posted Via The FREE SatelliteGuys Reader App!
You did that on purpose!!!
I THINK, that a polarotor is just for a single band like either C or KU and a corator is for both C and KU.
http://www.chaparral.net/feed-horns/polarotor/
http://www.chaparral.net/feed-horns/corotor-ii-plus-feedhorns/
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