6 lead wires??
- Thread starter mrclean
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 14
- Views 1K
That is "Old School" actuator cable. Nobody makes that anymore. But the comment "all" are hooked to the actuator suggests that you have a three wire sensor in that actuator and not a two wire reed sensor. If so, you may have to make some considerations on a controller for that actuator or convert it to a reed sensor. The best choice for sensor wiring would be shielded cable used in security systems. Motor wiring can be 16 - 12 gauge two lead unshielded cable.
I agree with Magic Static - and I will heavily insist on the need for the sensor cable to be shielded. Unshielded cable would get electromagnetic noise from the motor cable or others, and mess up the pulse count.
I used 4-22 shielded alarm cable. If I had to re-do it, i'd try to go with 2-18 or 4-18 instead. 22-gauge is just a bit annoying to work with. For the motor cable I used 14-gauge speaker wire (copper, not aluminum).
can you post a picture of the inside of the actuator connection box, so we can see how that old cable is connected and hopefully see the type of sensor?
I used 4-22 shielded alarm cable. If I had to re-do it, i'd try to go with 2-18 or 4-18 instead. 22-gauge is just a bit annoying to work with. For the motor cable I used 14-gauge speaker wire (copper, not aluminum).
can you post a picture of the inside of the actuator connection box, so we can see how that old cable is connected and hopefully see the type of sensor?
Its a van weise actuator arm, seems to be in decent shape. The old cable had 2 coax cables and 2 lead cables one with 18/4 and the other is pictured. Im sure there will have to be some more changes coming. i will definitely get the shielded wire.
Attachments
Last edited:
They were doubling up on the wire for no reason other than they could. You have a reed switch sensor.
Two conductor plus shield stranded 20 gauge copper security system wire can be used for the sensor. This is sold in bulk or in rolls at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Connect the shield drain wire inside to the controller ground terminal, but leave disconnected at the actuator.
Low voltage lanscape 2 conductor stranded 14 gauge copper wire can be used for the motor power. This is sold in bulk or in rolls at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
Two conductor plus shield stranded 20 gauge copper security system wire can be used for the sensor. This is sold in bulk or in rolls at Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Connect the shield drain wire inside to the controller ground terminal, but leave disconnected at the actuator.
Low voltage lanscape 2 conductor stranded 14 gauge copper wire can be used for the motor power. This is sold in bulk or in rolls at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
A sheild connected also at the actuator will not be as effective as only connecting the drain wire at the controller. You don't want the sheild to become a grounding point for the dish or to introduce noise from the motor.
You can't get much better than this one, though it comes with a bit of a learning curve. However, if you haven't had any real FTA receiver for some time, it's not much harder to learn than a regular appliance type receiver: Titanium Satellite - Store
IF you want one cheaper, but not as full-featured as the above one, this one is a good choice: Welcome to Michael Electronics
I ordered the mini from Michaels today. Did a little reading on it in KE4EST thread. Thanks again Prime!!!
It's a good receiver, and will serve you well, I own one myself.
If in the future you decide to get in a little deeper to the FTA hobby, the Edision OS Mio is a FANTASTIC receiver, and personally, is my 'holy grail' receiver I've been waiting for a very long time. I bought one in February, and it's the best I've ever seen, does everything I want just right, (I do a lot of recordings, and it's flawless at that, and does them in the background) and I've had plenty different ones over the years.
Similar threads
