1000.4 with WA 3LNBF help please

[3Griffs]

Hello,
We have a 1000.4 dish currently with the WA 3LNBF attached. Our receivers are one Hopper and one Joey (Hopper is working but the Joey is not and I know what that problem is, just haven't fixed it yet...trying to fix one problem at a time). I'm sure my problem is due to lack of knowledge and I'm not even sure if I'm asking/explaining this correctly but here it goes: I'm aligned to 119 and my coax (quad shield, RG6, 3MHz) is connected to port 3 on the LNBF. I think my coax should be on port 1 but I don't want to mess up the alignment so it's staying there for now. I'm missing some DISH channels (H2, Velocity, etc.) and I think I should have coax on each of the 3 ports on the LNBF. If I connect coax to each LNBF port, how do I go from 3 coax cables to just one? I have a Solo Node (#185834) but I didn't hook it up because it only has 2 satellite ports. Can someone give some advice please? Thanks!

 

[Dudleydog73]

For your setup you need to run two of the three lines from the LNBF to the solo node inputs. The Hopper connects to the Host port of the solo node. The Joey would connect to the client port of the solo node. For a Hopper/Joey system the node is a requirement, not an option.

 

[3Griffs]

Thanks! I think I missed explaining a portion of my problem: Our RV only has one external satellite port so I need to bring down the LNBF coax cables to just one cable so I can hook it into the RV's port. I had hoped/planned on using the solo node from inside the RV where my cabling distribution box is located.

Is it possible to have this setup:
3LNBF > a "reducer" > RV satellite input port > Solo Node > cable distribution box > Hopper and Joey

I don't know what the technical name is for a reducer...hopefully you know what I mean.

 

[JSheridan]

Thanks! I think I missed explaining a portion of my problem: Our RV only has one external satellite port so I need to bring down the LNBF coax cables to just one cable so I can hook it into the RV's port. I had hoped/planned on using the solo node from inside the RV where my cabling distribution box is located.

Is it possible to have this setup:
3LNBF > a "reducer" > RV satellite input port > Solo Node > cable distribution box > Hopper and Joey

I don't know what the technical name is for a reducer...hopefully you know what I mean.

You want to know the technical name for a 'reducer', that's easy it's called a 'there's no such thinger'.

You have to have 2 lines from the dish to the solo node and a really good 3GHz RG6 line from the node to the Hopper. There's no getting around that.

 

[Brussam]

Search the forum for a Post by Techwriter that shows how to put the Solo out at the dish, run one wire into the RV, and then use a Tap to get the Client circuits from the cable running to the Hopper input.

 

[3Griffs]

You want to know the technical name for a 'reducer', that's easy it's called a 'there's no such thinger'.

Ha ha! Well there sure should be...would make my problem simpler to solve

Search the forum for a Post by Techwriter that shows how to put the Solo out at the dish, run one wire into the RV, and then use a Tap to get the Client circuits from the cable running to the Hopper input.

Thanks! I have no idea what "use a Tap to get the Client circuits from the cable running to the Hopper input" means but I'm hoping it's a solution to my problem. I'm going to go search for that post now.

Okay so the second part of my issue is missing channels. Will connecting to a second LNBF solve this? Which LNBFs should I be connected to? Right now my coax is on port 3 and the signal is from 119...am I totally wrong with this connection/signal tune?

 

[Brussam]

The LNBF head of the DPP 1000.4 has a built-in multi-switch so technically any coax connection should be able to see and of the three satellite.

 

[NYDutch]

Install the Solo node at the dish using two short cables from ports 1 & 2 on the LNBF. Put a 75 ohm terminator on the Solo "Client" port, and connect a coax from the "Host" port to your RV's sat input port. Inside the RV, connect a Dish TAP to the cable coming from the input port, making sure there is nothing else connected, such as an OTA antenna switch, and then connect the "Host" port on the TAP to your Hopper, and the "Client" port to the coax going to your Joey.

The TAP is available on Amazon or from most Dish dealers:

Dish Network Hopper TAP 190506

 

[TechWriter]

Search the forum for a Post by Techwriter that shows how to put the Solo out at the dish, run one wire into the RV, and then use a Tap to get the Client circuits from the cable running to the Hopper input.

Like this . . .

https://rvseniormoments.files.wordpress.com/2015/04/209_dish_twotvs_hopper_joey_hdhd_single_rg6.pdf

 

[3Griffs]

This is great, thank you all so much! I've ordered the tap, terminator, and more coax so we'll be all set as soon as they arrive.

We spoke with a local satellite business yesterday and he recommended connecting 2 coax cables to LNBF ports 1 and 2 then to the Solo Node but then running the host coax to the RV's satellite port and the client coax to the RV's cable port. The RV's AV distribution box would be set to "Satellite" for the Hopper TV and "Cable" for the Joey TV thus eliminating the need for a tap and terminator (as long as we're not wanting to also connect to cable at some point).

Since we're now officially full-time RVers and we have plenty of time on our hands, we're going to try it both ways to see which works best for us.

By the way, our missing channels mysteriously appeared overnight yesterday with no changes in our setup so we're both happy to have Velocity, AHC, H2, etc. back.

Thanks again so very much; we truly appreciate your knowledge and help!

 

[RickIrrgang]

I have my Hopper and Joey in my RV. I have a 1000.4 dish and use a single node. Ports 1 and 2 go to the single node. One coax runs from the single node to the RV and plugs in the the "Cable TV" Jack located in one of our rear compartments. I used to use the Winegard switch but no longer need it. The cable in coax now runs to the Hopper. The second tv coax now runs from the hopper to the Joey. Very little re-wiring was necessary. It all works fine.
P.S. we are also full timers in our 40 foot class "A".