Re-Tuned one of my KU's and STAB back/forth play.

[iBoston]

Well, yesterday, i had lost everything on my 1.2m. Something happened.

What happened? The dish had rotated on the USALS rod. Unfortunately, i hadn't noticed it at first. Then to add to the chaos, i had a blown out diseqc switch. Not sure if i blew it out today, but, i always unplug my STB when i'm tuning, so I'm not sure what happened there.

The end result, i have it better than ever. I'm getting quality 90+ on many TP's.

On another note, I'm a little disappointed with this STAB 120. It's less than a year old and has quite a bit back/forth play. Its to the point that i have to approach a satellite from a particular direction to get the strongest signal. And this is supposed to be the best unit for my 1.2m dish.

 

[scarecrovv]

666 posts...... lol...I have the same problem with mine (back and forth play) wonder if there is any way to take the slop out?

 

[beavs2112]

On another note, I'm a little disappointed with this STAB 120. It's less than a year old and has quite a bit back/forth play. Its to the point that i have to approach a satellite from a particular direction to get the strongest signal. And this is supposed to be the best unit for my 1.2m dish.

Sorry to hear of this. One of my old hh120's had this problem. I was never able to figure out the cause or a solution unfortunately. It seems North America is still waiting for a reasonably priced good solid reliable 1.2m dish mover without stupid issues like this.
Coincidentally we are discussing a 1.2m dish mover here http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/1-2m-dish-mover.349461/

 

[. Raine]

In one of the posts in this thread Cham talks about tightening a bolt for bearing preload to fix this problem, maybe you could get lucky?

http://www.satelliteguys.us/xen/threads/azbox-stab-hh120-problem.279161/

I remember reading something about shimming them too, but I couldn't find where I'd read it at.

 

[Cham]

The main shaft has a nut that preloads the bearing. On mine the nut had come loose and caused slop in the bearing and excessive clearance between the worm and sector gears. As you read in my post a few years ago all I did was re-tighten the nut. There are shims under the nut that vary the preload on the bearing to some degree, but preload seemed also to vary as well depending on how tight the nut is torqued. The nut should be torqued until the play JUST disappears. I torqued mine to around 40ft/lbs and the play was almost zero at that point. If you tighten the nut and there is still play in the bearing, you can remove one of the shims, the thinnest one first (can't remember how many there was), and there would be considerable less torque required on the nut to set the bearing. Do not over tighten, if the shaft stretches too much or the bearing is too tight, something will break. These are good rotors, but you are not working with aircraft type spec'd materials so be very careful. A tiny bit of play is better than making it too tight.

In my case I suspect too much wind and too heavy a dish contributed to the problem. A 1.2m dish is really a lot of load for that design of motor. I use it on a 1m dish now and it works perfectly, even in the 50mph winds we have here today.